Jacko

Style 193s in 8 and 8.5" just too see what they sit like, fitments OK... dunno though. Its sitting a bit high due to jacking and not settling. (They need refurbing and the tyres are totally dead)

Isnt that an electrical loom?

You forgot the part about it being an NZ New manual I do not need 2 130s. I do not need 2 130s. I do not need 2 130s....

Its damn cool, and beautiful E30... but yeh that price is silly considering its not "genuine".

I have a cheapy aliexpress $30 one, works great. The same thing gets rebranded by heaps of companys. They put their logo on the bottle and slap a $70 surcharge on it

NZ new and cheap - https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2749053431?bof=7YOp5LMT No xenons which is odd for an NZ new one.

Stage 4 V bars?

I think id rather try fly in the range rover rather than a homebuilt heli

I have a set of these sitting in my garage, need a clean up and respray too.. They were going to go in the 330s as the style 193s on that are absolutely poked... might be a good lock down job to see how they sit on the 130 though.

The very early N52 engines had an issue with a cam ledge seal, which chewed up the cam carrier, and required a replacement head, many got fixed under warranty. Not really "rings and oiling" thing, it shows as goofy vanos behaviour due to the high oil flow and clever pump design that supplys oil based on load. Waterpumps do fail, they fail between 20,000 and 250,000km Its just one of those things, replacing them at xx km isnt really a thing, you might be replacing at 250,000km "rated" waterpump with a 20,000km one. Using genuine coolant is key to keeping them alive and happy, the pump is a brushless motor, the rotor is cooled/lubed/suspended in the coolant. Biggest difference between all the N52s is blacktop/silver tops. Blacktops are later engines, have a plastic rocker cover with built in CCV, silver tops are earlier and have magnesium rocker cover and external CCV. The magnesium ones corrode, the plastic ones crack . There is an old wives tail about silver tops having more power, they dont, the standards changed on BHP measurement and resulted in different numbers for the same thing. They all dont like idling around, and tappet noise is common with engines stuck to auto boxes that idle around in traffic. Lifters collapse and require bleeding - AKA as an italian tune up. All will develop oil leaks. Rocker covers and sumps are common, they just all do it. All in all, really reliable and clever engines.

All done and installed, massive improvement in sound quality. Way less muffled sounding mids and the tweeters obviously make a notable difference to the highs. It now goes past painfully loud without distortion too!

@promo is your man, my FRM exploded similarly after Carly killed it and he recoded it remotely. Legend.

Its 2020, if it wants to identify as a manual, who are we to judge.

The top grip tab so jammed had to go for the double tap to get it to release without smashing the pod! The pair of blaupunkts with tweeters were pretty well priced, considering the other options like Focal - https://www.jonvy.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=7604&search=BMW . Once Rona stops screwing with my income, Ill probably replace the subs and rear speakers with the blaupunkt options. Whats really curious now is that my E91 has identical speakers and subs to the 130, and it sounds like total balls in comparison. Im actually wondering if the stock headunits amp is fried.

This is why they lost the war! No tweeters.. but tweeter pods.

Hopefully to a good owner who will only feed it 98 and blue coolant.

No theyre not overpriced, the example you have is an outlier though. The manual cars are significantly rarer, and more desirable to those who want a manual 130 (so much purity!) and so they command a higher price. Even at 12ish k for a tidy manual 130, its good value.

Really the only thing to be careful of if changing the headunit out is if you have anything on the fibre optic MOST bus, as the factory headunit is the controller for it. My car has MOSTbus, but has nothing on it so its a non event, depending on spec you can have things like the factory amp on MOST.

Stupid trademe remind me thing didnt work!

Not particularly representative of the sound quality, but you get the idea. This is still all stock speakers, waiting on the inner door handles to be dropped off by courier before I pull the door cards and replace speakers.

The headunit in the screen shot above looks the same as mine, I just ordered another for the 330 too - https://www.belsee.com/ I suspect the fascia is made by another company and belsee strap their innards to the back of it. Ive had mine for a few years, works really well, has a few niggly annoying issues (like without a reversing camera the screen just blanks out in reverse) but otherwise theyre great. Theres some stuff of it in my 130 thread, and here -

Can say 100% that amping the factory subs is definitely worth it. Whole thing just works better, unloaded the 50x4 from headunit and everything just goes louder and stays clearer. Can actually feel the subs working in the trim now

Thats really odd, I wonder if mine has tweeters in the pods or not! (I havent looked yet, just assumed) There are definitely E87s with base stereos and no pods. My money is on it has tweeters in there as the 330 sounds like a bag of dicks with its no tweeters (or pods). Some E87s got tweeters in the rear as well. There seems to be a bunch on confusion on whats what depending on region, as they all seem to vary. Mine had "professional" headunit factory.

I had a hunt through all the newtis.info wiring diagrams, and absolutely none of them match my car so multimeter and follow them under the carpets is the plan. It seems to be an odd config in the nz new ones, has subs and tweeters but no amp.. subs fronts tweeters are all driven from the front 2 channels... Im going to drive the 2 4 ohm subs in parallel from the 2ohm output of amp, so going to have to run another wire over the transmission tunnel as well. The 330 has the base audio system, and yeah.. it sucks