Jacko

Done a lot of reading about the modern Caddys... lots of DSG failures and turbos going pop...

Pondered around a few car yards today, whenever I do Im always amazed at the terrible condition of cars a few years old and with odos with 5 digits on the clock. $50,000 cars that need a respray to fix... Didnt find a VW caddy, but found a shed load of Ractises (Racti?), the first generation has MUCH more cargo space than the newer ones. Seems pretty much on point with what I want, now I just need to find a white one (for sign writing) in 1.5l with flappy paddle gearbox (S trim... sporty!).. will keep looking into Caddys too.

Off to bunch of dealers today to sample the market of small shitboxes to move strangely shaped boxes.

Im running cheap ones of amazon, have been for about 3 years work sweeet as Cost like $40 for both or something silly. D1S 8000k is all that written on the generic white box.

Fixed

What are VW Caddys like, the 1.2 Tsi things?

The 90s definitely were peak for fun cars... wonder if In 20 years will be saying the same thing about 130s for 6k I sold my very tidy shiney and straight R32 Type M manual coupe for 6k in 2001.... Was curious as to what they are worth now... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/nissan/skyline/listing/2826175107?bof=XDmkazNd

Tidy AE86 Trueno.. for $500

Id code SPBR and see the difference, the actual volume of the caliper is probably similar to the 6 piston caliper bmwp ones.

Ractis looks to fit the bill too, probably cant go wrong with vitz running gear ?

Heya, Im after a company work hack. Ideally a small van or panel van or even a ghastly little mpv thing, deisel would be nice if solid engine and not garbage. Auto/Manual dont care. Doesn't have to be huge, but the stuff I haul around for work is quite tall so doesn't fit into your average ute with a canopy etc. Things Ive been looking at include Daihatsu Materias/Toyota Bb/Cubes/Suzuki Carryall APVS (even a Nissan Scargo would work...) etc etc.. I hate myself but need to find something... Suzuki APV currently appeals the most, but I know nothing about them. Anyone had any experience with small hacks like this? (or willing to admit to it?)

OIl cooler seals?

More people joining the cool kids club, pics or it didnt happen.

Bastards putting boxes on it my bonnet and watching them slide off....

Manual box and an LSD! That looks like a really good buy, all the options but PDC and headlight washers, and low ks.

Bastards - https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ Big grills, shitty FWD CUVs, and restricting information access. Todays BMW suck.

That is really cheap for a DMF kit! I often look at Rockauto but for some reason the parts prices I look at dont appear to be much cheaper if any than FCP etc Im not sure if P&S will have the gear to do the N52 rear crank seal or not? Its probably worth asking them first just incase, they were really good when I visited them, but I dont think there are many workshops in NZ who actually pull apart N52B30s (because they dont break ? ) The procedure to do it is up on newtis.info, but it looks like the sites been closed down!!

I run Castrol React Performance DOT 4, Which is essentially the same performance as DOT 5.1 ( and much higher than average DOT4 at 180/260c ), totally happy in BMWs and cheap as chups https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/B0F5626B0EB98D0B8025843C00213662/$File/BPXE-9VCL2X.pdf

With the right box fluid you really cant tell the difference, its definitely not harsh. When the stock box fluid is hot you get gear chatter running a SMF, other than it it's not really any different. I went SMF to give options in the future, like getting it lightened etc, and running different clutch plates. Feel free to hit me up and compare it to the DMF, Im down in conifer grove. Rear crank seal is a big job, requires specialist sealant and tools. I look at doing mine then fell back to - If it aint broken dont fix it

Can really only be the clutch or flywheel if its doing it when car is stationary ? The valeo SMF kit is good...

Yeah Id expect they wouldve put it back together properly. Just read it again, and it does it in idle and in neutral??

Was the driveshaft pulled apart and not put back together balanced?

Street cred +9000

@promo might be the man for this

All good, I reset the CB on the FRM. You get a few goes at it. Doing waterpump and thermostat at same time as engine mounts is good plan, dropping the subframe makes access to waterpump easier anyway. Engine mounts are a bit fiddly to do up, but not the worst job in the world, double check the sump gaskets not seeping at the same time as you'll kick yourself if dont do it while the subframes dropped.