Andre3000

Funny thing is that a 5 year and a 100km service is the same thing, regardless these cars will be due heavy maintenance sooner rather than later. Distance travelled is not a good representation of the life the car has had. Low hours with high kms on open road vs high hours with low kms in city traffic I know which one id rather choose.

Keep it to yourself, no insurance assessor boffin will ever know you have done it or have the expertise to check. Talk to Ray at Hellbm, I'm fairly sure he has the tech to download these ecu's and it won't cost an arm and a leg. Edit: Also be prepared to replace your charge pipe with an alloy one if it hasn't been replaced already, either i or bm workshop can help you use the alloy as a replacement if it blows while under autosure warranty.

Testing the waters of sale with my E36 Touring. 1998 318i Calypso Touring Manual Have done around 3k~ in the past year and a bit so shes not getting used. Want 9K ono. Pros: - NZ new, fastidiously maintained with OE parts, not a dime spared by me or the previous owners. - No leaks, knocks, play, abnormal noise, she drives as new. - Service records from new. I've recently done 100k service (around 2k ago). - Very economical around town with a good amount of power for overtaking/loads. - H&R Sport springs, Bilstein Sport shocks, 17x8 BBS, Michelin PS3 with 1/2 tread. - Rainbow component system, Dual 10" subs, Sony amp, Powerplant amp, Alpine 9887 control (tbn with price) Cons: - Interior 6.5/10 overall, let down by grubby cloth seats, door car cloth starting to lift, gear knob torn. - Exterior has scratches here and there, no dents though. Please don't hesitate to ask questions. I also have a full genuine ACS kit which can also go to the new owner for the right price (needs prep and paint).

I'm half way through "The Long Way Round" atm features the mighty R1150GS. A pretty good watch.

Sold

Swaps for my collection of rare and collectible old french gti's? Beaut of a car! If only there was a d after the 5...

My old man is upgrading his daily so the mighty X5 is up for sale. It is a 2005 black diesel automatic with black leather interior. Exterior and interior have been well cared for. I'd say a 9/10 for condition with only minor paint swirl and a couple stone chips. Tows the boat around 5 times a year a grand distance of 20km... Transmission is very tight and shifts smoothly. Good tyres all round Michelins on front. Solid service history. Has travelled approx 135000kms. Price is firm: $20,000 If he doesn't get any takers within the next week or so it will be traded in. SOLD

Need the LF door shell, dunno if you cbfd stripping it but im only interested in a rust free shell. PM me a price and address for pickup, i can arrange shipping. Cheers

Drop AA as soon as you can Ash. I've had nothing but problems from them farkin useless from the claims department, assessors and customer service all the way through. Have had 3 difficult claims with them over 6 years all of which were glass related, the last was a nightmare to get them to honour my contract. My panel beater recommends State and Medical Assurance, he's told AA to go get f**ked after my claim.

Not sure how long it will be there, might want to hit it this weekend if you're interested. I can check for you if its still there Sat morning if you are genuinely keen.

Theyres an m62 and complete e39 body on the ground in onehunga Zebra.

Grey

Love it! Moar smooke.

M3 CSL on Ophir St getting some panel work, looks like it took a smack to the whole right hand side?

Mate with autosure fitted a BMS after his blew in a 135i. Didn't void cover or hinder future claims. Also the stock charge pipes are sh*t regardless of the vehicles tune. He was recommended to fit the alloy over standard from a certain Auckland Bmw specialist, go figure. edit: pretty confident that Autosure essential will cover that pipe unsure if worth it with your excess though? If you need a claim and repair made with the aftermarket one let me know can easily arrange.

I have, for the most part, found Ron's posts to be very knowledgeable and helpful, as opposed to your pointless and misguided opinions scattered all over this poor forum. If you have no first hand experience with the the X5 then pipe down and have some respect for the OP and the people who know what they're talking about.

If the trade winds are favorable it is possible

^what he said. I'd be pretty confident in saying that you have f**ked your maf by shoving a screwdriver into it. If you think that is a good idea I'd be handing ALL future automotive work to a professional... Always use at least 95 octane, 98 from mobil, caltex or bp if you like your car to run properly.

I'll keep that point in mind next time the wof dude gives me sh*t about a 2cv with an insecure spare wheel eghhhhhh. I think Velcro is great as i often need to take it out to access the lock bolt key and spare wheel. No farting about with a screwdriver. If you wire a plug into the harness it becomes a very simple proceedure to remove and refit.

The old man has a 2006 diesel its been a great car for him absolutely no issues at all in 5 years ownership. Mountains of torque. It does have fairly firm suspension though and the steering is noticeably tougher than most power assists I've driven. I have heard the transmissions on them can give you trouble so check for receipt of repair. If you're not going to tow with it I'd go the 3L petrol, if you need to tow I'd go the td, v8's have less torque for towing and less efficient.

It prevents it moving around in the boot which is what he wants. Some WOF agents are very enthusiastic with their interpretation of the NZTA Wof "regulations" Had my sub box setup as it is with folding seats for around 10 Wof inspections now, none of the indians at AA or VTNZ noted anything regarding it.

Yeah, i was doing some research on what size lines to run and -8AN return came up a couple times, subconscious must want me to do it...

Do you have any pictures of the pot Tony? Where did you locate it?

Have updated OP Final plan draft: Replace hp intank with low pressure high flow lift pump. Acquire/fabricate ~1L fuel accumulator Mount 044 and accumulator where original external would go Plumb low pressure lines tank->filter->accumulator->tank Plumb high pressure lines accumulator->044->[-6AN]->rail->[-8AN]->accumulator Fit pressure gauge to regulator Will see what works with hose and fittings, but will definitely be using teflon braid in the HP side and will modify rail to suit AN. Please feel free to critique my plan. Keep in mind that this car is to stay as a functioning and roadable car and the aim of the game is to provide enough fuel for much boost reliably without taking up the entire boot space with surge tanks and fuel cells etc.

By far the cheapest and easiest option is to cover the bottom of your sub box in a roll of wide adhesive Velcro tape, securing with a couple staples, use the spiky side only. Works like a charm I get no movement whatsoever although i have a touring with solid boot floor panels. If your carpet moves just secure it with Velcro too.