Andre3000

I see where this is going. Anything else m3 gonna end up in this one?

And that's how its done. On ya Ray. Edit: wish I had the balls, and cash, to squeeze this into my e30...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=983395619 You were saying?

Wasn't you that picked up the blue 2002 from Orr Boon was it?

Not sure if trolling or not?...

Know the previous owner. have pm'd you his number.

Leave it to the japanese to change the wheels just because they can. So frustrating sometimes when the original wheels would've been so much better. In saying that they do look alright based mainly on the increase in diameter, but I'm with the others on the weaves all day. Just 5 stud and RC090 wheeeeee

Just noticed that now you say it although something was off for me. Prefer with the chrome imo, segments the lines a bit better, seems a bit bland without. Not a huge fan of the rims, some weaves on there would change its look entirely.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=978718442 Just window shopping again, the Orr Boon auction wet my appetite for 2002's... This one seems alot sounder than those though. Anyone know any history?

Take the car to Wayne Scott Panel in New Lynn and have a yarn with Wayne about what you're looking to do and budgets etc. His rates are by no means cheap but they are very effective and professional his shops turn out quality work. If you can remove trim, badges, guard liners etc and any prep that you can do easily that won't eat into their time spent you'll save alot of coin. Tell him Andrew from Bishops sent you and he shouldn't whine about rust too much... 67 Portage Rd, New Lynn 0600 09-826 3316

what he said. You could maybe tuck em in with a little machining depending how much room you've got with brakes/strut clearance. Personally I'd swap those tyres onto some correct offset wheels that will track properly.

I'm assuming you mean too high? That tender would seem reasonable to me if not too low. If you've got the spare cash I'd be at that if not more. Engine and tranny package alone out of that would be a steal for 6k. Personally wouldn't be posting my tender price on here though...

It is common for the statements to be incorrect on turners as I've found out first hand. "no oil and water" could mean anything so best to call the rep or go see in person, although I highly doubt the coolant system is intact. Stick manual though? Is it a UK? because 85 would mean miles.

Take a look at that service manual i posted. Haven't done a bmw auto flush before but with the AL4 bmw boxes, ZFs we get in the Citroens you normally 1) Dump the fluid by removing the drain plug and the level tube behind it. 2) Fit the level tube once drained, leave the plug out, keep the drain tin there. 3) Fill with 1L Dextron 3 through fill plug hole on top of box 4) Start car in park and fill until you get a steady small stream coming from the plug hole/level tube. 5) Stop filling and fit the plug while still running and its done. Do this a couple times if your fluid is particularly dirty/old.

http://mark.nellemann.nu/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/bmw_e46_3_series_service_manual.pdf

manual or auto? http://mark.nellemann.nu/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/bmw_e46_3_series_service_manual.pdf

You tried the Iron X paste from United Car Care?

Not in Kapiti. Wayne Scott Panel in New Lynn if you're ever in AKL

Koken, Stahlwille, Snapon. I started with Stanley, which i ditched after their bulky primitive design got too much for me, then teng which most of the sockets split on me. Built up my kit with SP, Wurth/Zebra, koken and Snapon, when my SP and wurth bits break i replace with Snapon. I know as a home mechanic you probably wont need the reliability or warranty that comes with Snapon but it would make sense to me to at least get a set of flank-drive combo spanners and a pivot head 3/8 socket wrench to keep the swearing and knuckle bashing to a minimum. Also I hear Mac tools are really good too, no experience with them though. Look on the snapon aus website now and you'll find a whole lot of specials for spanners and sockets. I can order them through my local rep if you want. GL!

You should direct your comments to op not me mate, he calls them idiots then goes on to say "I'm not sure if you guys support naming and shaming on this forum if you do let me know, im happy to out these guys!" I effectively told him that I do not support that kind of crap. Got a problem talk to the guys face, but don't threaten to defame someone or talk sh*t behind their back especially when you have no idea what you're talking about. I'm honestly just standing up for my beliefs and have certainly not "flipped". I probably shouldn't have questioned his mental stability, it just seemed probable considering the conclusion he came to. I just seriously thought hard about what I just said, hope that's ok?

Living my dream mate! Shes a beaut

I don't think I'm the only one on this forum that would stand idly by and let someone unjustifiably bag the name of a professional workshop be it mine or anyone elses. To be sure if the o-ring wasn't there, it would be somewhat justified, but it is and hes not. I'm gonna leave it there.

I didn't say he was wrong i asked if he was mentally challenged as i can clearly see for the pictures he provided that his statements were incorrect. I'd be happy to help guide him in the correct direction but not if he, or anyone, has a tanty and starts calling qualified techs abilities into question. If the ring was not there you'd be able to see the recess it sits in? Dated time is a poor reference of how the engine has been operated. It is fairly common, at least 50/50 for me to encounter a flattened seal when changing cartridge filters, although they rarely leak before required service intervals I do see it every now and then.

The o-ring is where it should be just not where you perceive it to be... A quick search found this image where you can clearly see where the ring is supposed to go, i hope. I urge you to put the replacement ring on the lip of the cap and enjoy how well it seats and seals the oil. Then go buy another oil filter and do it correctly. I don't take kindly to uninformed people passing blame onto experienced techs pretending they know everything. Do some research before you fire shots, or just don't.

Are you mentally challenged? I can see the filter housing o-ring in this photo clearly. It has been flattened due to its age "~8 months"... It is fairly common for those smaller o-rings to go hard and break off when removing, check the bottom of your housing. I don't see you're point in naming/shaming anyone when it is clear than your car is just due for a service, something that a new car owner would normally do within a month of ownership regardless of history.