Wom

this may be helpful to others who are identifying wheels - http://www.angelfire.com/biz7/bmwheelie/

if people keep paying the price NZ retailers set, the retailers will just keep fleecing us someone needs to teach the rich folk who can afford NZ retailer prices how to find a bargain from overseas this can be said about any product out there

yesterday I spotted a black E36 323i with a bimmersport sticker parked up in Clifton Terrace reserved parking area

manual conversions are relatively straight forward for these cars , easily done in a day price will vary depending if you replace anything in the conversion kit with new items but yea as mentioned above, $1500 to $2000 is a good guide to how much it'll cost

I think it was only the 6 cylinder Jap one's that had the Jatco box either way, manual is way better in these cars

my mate's solution for getting rounded bolts out of his flywheel was to weld a handle onto the bolt, bash it with a hammer, then repeat for the other 3 lol

when you test drive it you'll know straight away whether the gearbox has issues it will jerk between 1st and 2nd (and if it's real bad then 2nd to 3rd as well) it might also flair the revs between 1st and 2nd - almost as if it goes to neutral between changes and hangs there for a couple seconds I've heard some people recommend every 25,000kms for those Jatco boxes and I would agree with that, they need all the help they can get to live longer check under the engine for any oil leaks check in the engine bay for any signs of coolant leakage / spray - cooling system is another fail point just something to keep in mind, I had my auto box fixed under warranty and it cost the insurer a bit over $3000 it then started failing again less than a year later, so I did what I should've done in the first place and got a manual put in, for far less than it would've cost to get the auto repaired again (it was outside warranty by this stage)

I didn't think it was necessary to do this on the e36 can't say I've noticed any issues leaving mine with the original programming (almost 18 months now since conversion)

spotted the plate I BMW 1 on a Maxima yesterday also spotted recently 84MR2 on an MX5

was sitting 2nd in the queue in the right lane at the lights this morning in peak hour and a biker pulled up on the left of the car in the left lane, I hear a noise, look over and he's doing a burnout lol pretty random at that time of day

yea I've done the same for over a year and a half now, no worries

it was an option for the 318is but not standard on all of them 320i uses the 166 diff, otherwise all the other 6 cylinder models use the 188 easy enough to find a 188 lsd

never been with AMI, so can't comment NZI tried putting my excess up from $300 to $1500 and premiums from $650 to $900 when I told them I had put a pod in so I took my business to Vero, who laughed their heads off when I told them about NZI also premiums are now $425, win win

it's not too hard to find a medium case lsd diff for the e36 168's and 188's have different bolt patterns and from what I've read the 168's are weaker

your car is looking awesome really makes me want an E46

I had the cooling system fully overhauled at the same time I got the manual conversion done, that was around $3.5k total iirc I'd hate to add up all the parts and labour I've paid for over the years, would be probably the same as what I paid for the car in the first place lol

the 168 diffs were used on the 4 cylinder e36's out of all of them, best bet for LSD probably would be the 318is, but I'm just guessing

saw a white E36 (323i I think it was) with the plate MOEHWK heading northbound on SH2 about 5:30 this afternoon looked like most of the rear window was taken up by 2 large speakers lol

$6,000 starting price would be realistic black, black leather, 2.8l manual, km's aren't too high, NZ new ... it should be worth more than $6k but the current market says no

don't suppose an E36 wheel would fit? I replaced the one in this pic with a different type, so it's just sitting in the shed doing nothing it's in fairly good condition, not perfect though, it would look a lot better if it were clean lol

speaking of classics, I saw a early 1920's Ford T hotrod in peak hour traffic the last couple mornings

^ usually the easiest option or pay a tyre shop to do it for you

are you using anything to stop boot rattle? curious as I'm sussing out ways to stop mine, by the time you can hear bass you can also hear a lot of boot rattle, it's really annoying

yep I did this and all the information I received from PP indicates that they are my plates now and can transfer them to any other car if I wish ... I may have misunderstood the information provided to me though so don't trust me on this haha

I got one you can have