twisted

I unclip the expansion tank and lift it high. Leave overflow hose disconnected and at normal level. Fill tank till all air expelled from overflow hose. Put everything back and start the Car with heater on hot. Bleed as normal, but I usually find most Ariel has already been expelled.

Stips the wax and leaves your paint without protection.

Excuse the poor spelling. Tapatalk is sh*t and doesn't let me edit

Old one was from schmeidmann, New one is daico. Noticeable difference in quality, with the daoco being much better. Normally i would agree with you, but dealer is 52km away. Replaced cam and crank sensors with oe parts after a bad experience with Chinese sh*t. Often I ding Jeff Grey to be very reasonable also.

Yeah. Lesson learnt. Picked up a new tstat from ripco, Pulled the old New one and noticed the spring was on an angle. Then realised it was missing the pin on the other side of the housing. Tested them both, and new one was good, old one bad. Installed it and it's running sweet! Phew was beginning to think I had a hairline crack in hg that was pulling in air.

I use what Andy does. Cheap as from repco

Tbh, you are much better off buying a new OE replacement.

About 90% sure the new thermostat is poked. Pulled it out and did the pot test Seems to open once the water has been boiling for a bit. Should open at 92 deg, which is just under boiling point. Out would be nice if the car ran reliably for art least a couple of weeks.

Thought about pouring petrol over our and striking a match.

The expansion tank I bought from Jeff grey was very reasonably priced.

Your car would have post cat sensors? If so, it can still be done, but the o2's may need to be spaced out. Been looking into this for my m52b28 e39 schnitzel. Deff has post cat sensors

Yeah, from memory they were quite cheap when I was looking at bringing a 420g, drive shaft and other bits over.

Oh that's lovely.

Rimrite.co.nz Warren knows his sh*t and has been doing wheels for years. Though is in palmy.

You can buy the rubbers cheap on trade me. I found they don't fit perfectly, but good enough. Key won't need to be 're initialized provided the battery is out less than10secs iirc

Kiwishipping.co.nz

I have a 2ft long breaker bar and 3 17mm sockets in my boot. I learnt the hard way after splitting the factory brace. On a latter occasion I split a socket, hence backups. Not sure why my studs seize up, but anyway, I digress. Schnitzel is looking good Miss BM!

Also, 12l /100km? My e39 528 gets 10.9 in a mixed cycle. And that's a fuelly calc. Not an obc calc

I actually dig the wheels.

My E34 box made that noise before it failed. You could try getting it flushed, but you may be up for a new box or manual swap.

Ok. Time for an update. I've done the following since my last post: New monitor/head unit. FYI: E38 monitors fit and work, but the e39 trim won't fit without modification. New radiator New thermostat New thermostat housing New water pump New hoses New coolant level sensor New fan clutch New serpentine belt idler New crank sensor New cam sensor New VCG New besian vanos seals Good used vanos solenoid New CCV valve. Now goes like a new one. Still haven't sorted the body, this will have to wait until I find work.

The stock 383 would keep me happy.

Looks the biz on the type 3's.

Yup. Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk

Crank sensor is a new oe unit replaced 2 weeks ago. Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk