KwS

Interestingly, ive never had a problem getting a wof on any of my cars from VTNZ Porirua. Because of this they are the only VTNZ i will use (too many stories about other ones being crap), but now ive just been getting work to do my WOFs (much more convenient.)

oh those carbon door cards are so lush. Good luck with the Targa!

either way, looks like a damn cheap V8 E34 in what appears to be very tidy condition. Hope it works out for you!

if only i had the money id buy it off you and restore it Gotta catch em all. Keen to see pictures. I really wouldnt be worried about the under trays being damaged or missing, its REALLY common (my M3 is missing the center under tray completely, as did my last E36). Depending on the paint, if its just scuffed and dull, a decent cut and polish or a wetsand might bring it back up but if its peeling it could be a bit more expensive due to needing paint.

Would you ship the LTW wing rep to welly? How does it mount, same holes as a normal wing? Does it split into two bits (so risers can be fitted)?

Bump. Running better than ever, recent wof, will come with 3 months reg.

Took M3 for another spin. Silent cold start, and makes all the right noises and none of the wrong noises now. Hurrah!

Just dont tell him his S50B30 guide is wrong....

Yeah the PPSR text system is great, cheapest and quickest way of doing it.

Righty. Backstory. So since i got the car its had this annoying noise at about 1800rpm when accelerating under load. It only happened when the oil temp was over 90c, and only when under load. It wasnt vanos, because it persisted after i rebuilt that. The car also made a similar noise occasionally on cold start. After some further reading i read some reports of the original 3.0 timing chain tensioner being crap and losing tension. The other week i had a good look at my tensioner when i did the cam sensors. I noted that it looked a lot like the original tensioner, and it was weeping oil. A common upgrade is to use the timing chain tensioner of the new 3.2 Evo engine, which is a completely new design and more reliable. This is the old one, The tensioner is pretty easy to replace really. I read heaps of write ups, but i was still a bit nervous as its a REALLY crucial part. You need to move the washer bottle (disconnect the two electrical connections), and remove the RH wing from the radiator shroud (little push pin at the top). In my case i also needed to remove the exhaust cam sensor to reduce any risk of me damaging it. A 32mm spanner will be required to remove the tensioner. With the space created the spanner will just fit. My tensioner leaked a bit of oil when removed, but otherwise removing it was straight forward. It was pretty obvious when removed that the old tensioner was original, and its clearly very worn. Old vs New Clear signs of heavy wear on the piston. This is the same on both sides. The contact point wasnt too bad considering. I put a little fresh oil on the contact point of the new tensioner and gently installed into the hole. I aligned the contact point and wound the tensioner backwards a few times before winding it in by hand. It wound in by hand till a couple of turns, and a quick spin of the spanner had it seated and sealed correctly. Started up, silent. So far so good. Decided to take it for a spin and almost immediately noticed the throttle response was smoother and quicker when backing out of the driveway. During the drive, after i got it up to temp the car felt good. The engine is quieter, and its probably a placebo, but feels like it pulls stronger, especially down low. Once the oil temp was up, at around 90-95c i decided to give it the worst combination of conditions i could think of, where previously it would have rattled its nuts off. Heavy load, low RPM. Silent. Not even a peep. Great success. For anyone still running an original tensioner, get rid of it. Oh, whilst in the garage i finally changed the reverse light switch so now i can reverse into traffic without giving someone a fright. The original switch was 19mm, and located on the RH side of the trans. The cheap pattern (tridon) part i fitted was 22mm with the same thread and seems to work OK. I had a quick play with the Gummi Pflege on the door/window seals. Gave them a quick wipe with a wet towel and once dry wiped some gummi on them. Before Half (top before, lower section treated) Its not very obvious in the photos, but the seal come up looking much nicer, a darker black. I havent had a chance to see if its any softer, but hopefully it helps to seal the window and ease the window raise and lower (especially when the door is opened as it automatically drops an inch or so and then goes back up when closed). Ill keep an eye on it and see how it goes. EDIT: The PN for the tensioner and gasket i used were, 11311405081 and 07119963418

Thats a great looking E30. Looks at home on the track too.

i find it hard to believe that the rubber joint should move that much. A little bit of flex, sure, but that video makes it look like its made of bubblegum.

Bleh, Silver and black are boring. Vermont Green certainly isnt a common color, by any stretch of the imagination (different from the usual, darker, Oxford green). Looks like a tidy example, and 8K gives you some room to negotiate with a serious buyer.

i thought that was what the "projects" section was for...

imagine the noise, OMG. It looks fantastic, would love to buy it, reinstall all the interior and have it as a street legal weapon.

Even then, wasnt it only the facelift single turbo 1JZGTE with VVTI?

i was under the impression you tested TPS with voltage (between 0-5v), not resistance?

Bump. The M Cloth is way cooler than leather (not just literally)

i do wonder, when the cats were removed, wouldnt they have had to weld to the dual wall pipe that was left on the car to fit the new pipe? Surely they could do it again?

i love the smell of raw, unburnt fuel.... cats are for wusses.

You suck, Facebook is blocked at work

Wouldnt that sort of oil consumption ruin the cats anyway?

Could be anything. Degrease and observe.

i love the engineering on these things. Even the door hinges had to be grossly over engineered to handle the weight of the doors. Fantastic.

Looking to lower my M3, so im looking to see if anyone has any decent lowering springs kicking around before i fork out to import some. Nothing too low, H&R Sport would be good. Also looking for rear bilsteins to match my fronts.