KwS

Assumption is the mother of all f.. ups. Get the tires done, and get the car checked when its in at the dealer. Hopefully one of those two should fix it.

Google/wiki says iron block

oh well, at the very least you better treat the 6 speed like glass, BMW doesn't supply any internal parts to repair/rebuild them, only complete assemblies im not saying they're fragile, I'm saying they aren't as strong as the 5 speed (but I'm too lazy to trawl the net to get proof so my statement is moot anyway).

Its in need of some new photos, so might take them this weekend if its nice. Ill smooth out the seat too (i was out of battery in camera so had to quickly jump in the back before it died, and as anyone that has been in the back of an E36 can agree.... its tight getting in.). With the Evo IMO a lot of the appeal is all just personal preference (options, colour etc). The 6 speed box isn't as strong, the big ends are known to go for a run, and the engines don't make anywhere near the factory rated power. The 3.0 although older its just that little bit tougher.

it will be staggered width, and generally you should be able to tell by eye if one has more "dish" than the others

i had one serious potential buyer (the only person to actually view the car) last week but he purchased an M3 Evo over the weekend, other than that, a couple of useless swaps but no cash offers. I always have heaps of watchers on my listing. I don't think I'm asking too much. Im the cheapest on TM and my KM aren't the highest. Yet its perplexing me as to why so little interest.

Bump, price is somewhat negotiable. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=798151702

id be checking to see if any arms are bent or bushes are poked.

Time to hit Andy up for some euro plates and holders.

I take it you polished them in place? What was to procedure to get it to look like that? Looks great, sure makes a big difference!

ha sh*t, didn't click it was these fools. They also have that 330 coupe for $30k (A bargain, down from $66k! since 2007), and an old Iron Mask skyline since 2010 (which although it looks great in the pics apparently its a rough as guts POS). http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-105483039.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-287347105.htm

Looks like a good base, but damn thats a lot of money. Id rather start with the one nick linked. Better colour too. In the black one, whats the card attached to the keys slotted in the dash? Some sort of immobiliser?

Beautiful, also love the wheel and tire combo. Makes a damn fine change from the usual weaves or stretch.

If it is indeed this one, its also a jap import and really no more special than the other early 540s on trademe. You can see in the first photo they wanted 35k for it, and that was years ago, hate to think of what damage has been done from sitting out in the sun on the yard for that long (although OP does mention peeling paint, so that'd be my guess). Being an import it wouldn't surprise me if the odo was wound back before import.

I suspect he means $20 to fit a tyre, not $20 for the tyre?

Interestingly, ive never had a problem getting a wof on any of my cars from VTNZ Porirua. Because of this they are the only VTNZ i will use (too many stories about other ones being crap), but now ive just been getting work to do my WOFs (much more convenient.)

oh those carbon door cards are so lush. Good luck with the Targa!

either way, looks like a damn cheap V8 E34 in what appears to be very tidy condition. Hope it works out for you!

if only i had the money id buy it off you and restore it Gotta catch em all. Keen to see pictures. I really wouldnt be worried about the under trays being damaged or missing, its REALLY common (my M3 is missing the center under tray completely, as did my last E36). Depending on the paint, if its just scuffed and dull, a decent cut and polish or a wetsand might bring it back up but if its peeling it could be a bit more expensive due to needing paint.

Would you ship the LTW wing rep to welly? How does it mount, same holes as a normal wing? Does it split into two bits (so risers can be fitted)?

Bump. Running better than ever, recent wof, will come with 3 months reg.

Took M3 for another spin. Silent cold start, and makes all the right noises and none of the wrong noises now. Hurrah!

Just dont tell him his S50B30 guide is wrong....

Yeah the PPSR text system is great, cheapest and quickest way of doing it.

Righty. Backstory. So since i got the car its had this annoying noise at about 1800rpm when accelerating under load. It only happened when the oil temp was over 90c, and only when under load. It wasnt vanos, because it persisted after i rebuilt that. The car also made a similar noise occasionally on cold start. After some further reading i read some reports of the original 3.0 timing chain tensioner being crap and losing tension. The other week i had a good look at my tensioner when i did the cam sensors. I noted that it looked a lot like the original tensioner, and it was weeping oil. A common upgrade is to use the timing chain tensioner of the new 3.2 Evo engine, which is a completely new design and more reliable. This is the old one, The tensioner is pretty easy to replace really. I read heaps of write ups, but i was still a bit nervous as its a REALLY crucial part. You need to move the washer bottle (disconnect the two electrical connections), and remove the RH wing from the radiator shroud (little push pin at the top). In my case i also needed to remove the exhaust cam sensor to reduce any risk of me damaging it. A 32mm spanner will be required to remove the tensioner. With the space created the spanner will just fit. My tensioner leaked a bit of oil when removed, but otherwise removing it was straight forward. It was pretty obvious when removed that the old tensioner was original, and its clearly very worn. Old vs New Clear signs of heavy wear on the piston. This is the same on both sides. The contact point wasnt too bad considering. I put a little fresh oil on the contact point of the new tensioner and gently installed into the hole. I aligned the contact point and wound the tensioner backwards a few times before winding it in by hand. It wound in by hand till a couple of turns, and a quick spin of the spanner had it seated and sealed correctly. Started up, silent. So far so good. Decided to take it for a spin and almost immediately noticed the throttle response was smoother and quicker when backing out of the driveway. During the drive, after i got it up to temp the car felt good. The engine is quieter, and its probably a placebo, but feels like it pulls stronger, especially down low. Once the oil temp was up, at around 90-95c i decided to give it the worst combination of conditions i could think of, where previously it would have rattled its nuts off. Heavy load, low RPM. Silent. Not even a peep. Great success. For anyone still running an original tensioner, get rid of it. Oh, whilst in the garage i finally changed the reverse light switch so now i can reverse into traffic without giving someone a fright. The original switch was 19mm, and located on the RH side of the trans. The cheap pattern (tridon) part i fitted was 22mm with the same thread and seems to work OK. I had a quick play with the Gummi Pflege on the door/window seals. Gave them a quick wipe with a wet towel and once dry wiped some gummi on them. Before Half (top before, lower section treated) Its not very obvious in the photos, but the seal come up looking much nicer, a darker black. I havent had a chance to see if its any softer, but hopefully it helps to seal the window and ease the window raise and lower (especially when the door is opened as it automatically drops an inch or so and then goes back up when closed). Ill keep an eye on it and see how it goes. EDIT: The PN for the tensioner and gasket i used were, 11311405081 and 07119963418