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Everything posted by KwS
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Once you go genuine, you never go back.
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Last time i did my front arms my fork did not work. What did work was using a blowtorch from bunnings, and heating the hub around where the ball joint goes through, and then hitting the hub (same place you heated) with a hammer until the ball joint just pops out. Worked a treat (just remember ear plugs). E: corrected term from arm to hub.
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Those splitters look good, also interested to know which you went with. A quick check of your VIN confirms it was not factory specced with a sunroof. Yours is a couple of months older than mine, but other than the non-smoker package option it is identical. http://www.bmwarchive.org/vin/ea66308.pdf
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Oh wow, he also has a Lancia Delta Integrale for sale. Just a little jealous of his collection! That M3 is gorgeous, very nice condition. Whats an E30 M3 usually worth?
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Where did you get the anycar from? This might be a valid option to replace my well aged Alpine headunit.
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You need less potatovision, doesnt really do the cars the justice im sure they deserve. Thats a great lineup!
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I read the original post, im just clarifying that even with resonators you can get a drone. If the cats are OK and not blocked i dont see the point in removing them. The increase in noise wont be too substantial. Also, my car does smell a bit from the exhaust, more so when cold (due to cold start enrichment). I dont mind it, just smells like burnt fuel. Cant notice it when the engine is warm unless backing up with windows down (and then its only a hint of exhaust). I wouldnt worry to much. Mine will be made worse by having no O2 sensors and overfuelling.
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My M3 has resonators replacing the cats. Sounds great, but at 100KPH it does have a drone (thanks to sitting at just under 3000RPM). If you do pull them out, do replace them with resonators as itll just keep the sound much more refined.
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Im with State and have been for the past 5-6 years, with no claims. They have never had an issue with my modifications as long as the value of the mods didnt exceed 25% of the insured value of the car. My M3 is insured with them now, considering the type of car it is, and the insured value the cost is pretty reasonable. I also have another car and contents with them too.
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The two keys i have for my 94 E36 M3 look like this (example photo), Do i have EWS chips, and is this the normal "master key"? They look a lot different to my past BMWs which had a bigger key with a torch in it.
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And have a hankering for some nice coloured stickers/fines/impounding from the "pigs"
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this one, i presume? http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/12444-my-e31-850csi-v12-6-speed/?hl=850csi
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- m62b44
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Looks good. Does the screen display any details (like song title) of the currently playing track from an ipod, or does it just say track 01, 02 etc?
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How durable are the front ones, and how are they attached?
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Theres no way those wheels are "16x11"..... Also, whats the brown sh*t on the cluster?
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Any ideas? Should i look at adding the O2 sensors back in? The Previous owner has mentioned that no coding/flashing of the DME has been done, and the sensors were removed when the cats were removed.
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This isnt a discussion about oil guys. Im using the oil i want to use based on the recommendation and experiences of many others, and thats the end of it.
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should have purchased this instead
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Cars are built by accountants. BMW will do whatever is cheaper, and in this case its clearly done by using the same oil in all M engines. If manufacturers did everything perfectly there quite simply wouldnt be a market for aftermarket items (including oils/fluids).
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even if the rubber bits on the key are gone, can you manually press the actual button on the circuit board to see if it works (or bridge the contacts if its a silicone button)? Thats also provided the battery isnt dead.
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so in that case, it would be beneficial adding them back in, wouldnt it? If the DME hasnt been altered, shouldnt i have an error code or CEL? The car runs great, no soot on the bumper, and the economy would be in line with the way i drive it and the type of car it is.
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huh, strange. That looks the same as the manual i have then. Red M3 on the front? My trawling through the interwebs to find an answer on oil viscosity led me to believe the Evo had a different manual (maybe it was just UK ones). Im sure mine does specify a viscosity for harsh climates under the table. Shall check tomorrow. Its a real pain, i have spent too many hours trying to work out which oil to use.
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The evo manuals are different to the 3.0 ones. The 3.0 only specifies the SAE grade (SG or SN or something). Regardless, im trying this oil, and if i dont like it ill change further down the track.