KwS

For the right price.

That's a weird place for something like that to end up, with only somewhat minor issues listed. Wonder if the engine tapping is the normal injector noise or worse?

It could be painful to remove the kit since it's all moulded in (side skirts and flares especially). I agree with big wheels and #bringneonsback

It's not like they want 72k of your hard earned money or anything ? With a listing that bad, I half expected it to be a dealer.

Guess that explains why a large number of us on here have owned multiple BMWs....

What's an altezza spoiler? Is that slang like altezza lights?

You're one of few though. If they started to charge a bigger rate to just fit parts, they'd quickly get a reputation for "ripping us poor customers off", which in typical Kiwi fashion, would get smeared all over the internet on forums such as this.

Thanks but I think for my tests it has to be a 328 cluster

Bit slow chap, look a few posts above

After a cheap 328i cluster. Must be in working condition but don't care about cracked plastic, KMs etc as it will only be for testing.

I have a basically new three spoke steering wheel. No airbag. Leather is almost unworn. Will sell for what it cost me as it doesn't work on my E36. $120 plus postage.

Not an issue, wasnt taking a dig. Just i remember it on here in the past, and obviously it either didnt sell, or no one has done anything with it since. Couldnt forget the bodykit lol. I think this was it. I see the same discussions as last time have popped up already,

I won't lie, its grown on me a lot. The only big spoiler i would want would be an LTW, but then i'd have to get the front splitter too to balance it out, but that wont happen any time soon. I may get an ebay lip spoiler for it at some point, as i think they look quite good.

Thats been on here before, sans running gear back then too.

Been using and enjoying the car a few times recently. Trying hard to crack the 300,000km mark, which is about 300km away now. Its been good but some minor issues are cropping up. Turns out my heater (on the drivers side at least) is stuck on, so the cruise I took the other day, in the hot sun, meant it got pretty toasty inside. Guess like my last M3, the heater valve on this one has probably had it. My standard 3.0 M3 steering rack is rubbish. They're known for being slow and feel dead (and its a 3.0 M3 specific rack, good work BMW), and thats exactly what mine is. Slow, lots of turns lock to lock, and feels almost completely dead on center. Will keep an eye out for a purple tag E46, or Z3 rack, which is almost a direct swap and much better speed and feel. The latest fairly major issue though is that I have once again been hit my the common "BRAKE LIGHT CIRCUIT - SEE OWNERS MANUAL" Check warning, indicating my brake light switch is on the way out, and when tested, I indeed had no brake lights at all. Lovely. Ill grab a new one of those shortly, so I can keep enjoying the car without being rear ended. I really need to clean the car, I havent touched it since it was driven down from Auckland by the previous owner. I feel bad.

Whether you hate dealers or not, they are the ONLY ones that can yay or nay the questions you have. Get over yourself, or do it yourself and warranty be damned.

That may be, as misguided as it is, but the only people that will be able to yay or nay what you're asking, is the dealer you intend to use. Do you seriously think all independent workshops are in it just for the love and not money? If they were, they wouldn't be open anymore.

I must ask, is it worth the time, effort and money? It's unlikely to be a "classic" being 99, yet isn't modern enough to even have yearly wofs. There are few cars I would bother doing that process again for, and sometimes it's just better to pay a little more for one that is already on the road.

Have a read of this regarding the whole process. It is slightly different on post-91 cars, but should be otherwise similar. https://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2018/11/project-snicket-re-registration/ Vtnz had no issue with me doing the work as long as I filled out the paperwork and provided receipts/documents.

Have you thought about asking the warranty and service advisors at your chosen dealer?

Anyone looking at this should just look at the photos at the start of this thread (dont scroll down too far though!), and then buy it, and do it. http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/208354/1973-bmw-2500-panel-repairs

Have i read something on here about different length release bearings? Might pay to have a quick search

It'll go in the bin unless you wanted it.

One last thing I needed to fix, so that the car would reliably start, was the ignition barrel. Sometimes it would free spin, and wouldn't start the car. I had encountered the issue a couple of times, including once on the drive home after taking ownership of the car, when I stopped to take some photos. That was a "oh god, what have I gotten into?!" moment. You turn the key and instead of turning the ignition switch, it just free spins in the barrel. It will turn over and over without doing a single thing. Generally if you turn it back to where you started, take the key out and try again, it worked. Problem is, it can get worse. It'll either get to a point it will never start, or it will fail to turn off and the car will remain running. With the starter now fixed, this was next on the list of things that would stop the car starting. I was reminded of this when during testing of the starter yesterday, the key decided to free spin. Initially I had the great idea of removing the barrel so I could install a screw into the housing To remove the barrel you first remove the EWS transponder ring with a flat blade screwdriver. Carefully lever and pop it off. Then remove the rubber o-ring behind the ring. The theory on the next part is to use a straightened bobby pin or paperclip, and to insert it into this little hole, when the key is inserted and turned to the first "radio" position, and the barrel is meant to pop out I tried and tried but couldn't get the damn thing to work, so in the end, I chose to leave the barrel installed. Instead, I grabbed a drill and whacked a hole in the bottom of the housing. I know from much research that where the hole is would go straight into a recess in the barrel. When a screw is inserted, it would lock the barrel and stop it from spinning. I started with a 3mm bit, and stepped up to 4mm for the final hole. The aluminium is quite soft, so easy to drill, and a coarse threaded screw will thread in easily without needing to be tapped. And in went the random screw I found in my collection I probably should've used one with a smaller head, but it just fits. Now test that the barrel no longer spins freely. Thankfully one of the keys that came with the car doesn't seem to work, and would cause the barrel to spin every time. With the screw installed, I cannot spin the barrel anymore. The key still doesn't work. Reinstall the o-ring and the antenna. This should completely cover the new screw With that taken care of, I could finally reinstall the lower trim that had been out of the car since December, finally making it look like a respectable car again. Now, *touch wood* I should have a car that starts every time, not when the starter or ignition feels like it.

Im well aware of this. The starter was sold under the part number for my Euro starter. Its an M52 starter as it has the threaded holes, not through holes like the M50 ones. Regardless, it works, and it works well.