KwS

Worst case, you may need to take your car insurance to a different company. Definitely DO NOT hide the modifications. Declare them, make sure they are clear on what the mods are, and make sure its all noted down correctly. As mentioned, having something in writing/email form from them stating the modifications are covered is a bloody good thing to have too, as when push comes to shove, insurance companies can be bastards that try to weasel out of anything.

2nd MHD, had it on my 335i and it was great. Cant see any reason why anyone would go JB4 over it, unless they needed a specific feature like the fuel gauge boost gauge thing, but thats a gimmick. I have a spare alu charge pipe here, with knockoff Tial BOV and caps for the inlet pipes. Doesnt have clip or O-ring (carry over from your stock one). PM me if interested.

I know its unlikely you'd send it, but im after the boot floor carpet over the spare, and the plastic cover thing over the battery. Also after a good condition (no wear) headlight switch. If it has the analogue 4 dial heater controls i'd be interested in that too. Oh, and what do you want for the cup holder/ash tray insert in the center console?

Thanks, replacement wheels should be with me this weekend though. The 20s are already off the car.

Bump. No one wrecking an e36? Could also do with a replacement headlight switch thats in good condition (no wear on icons around dial)

Hey Dave, Did you ever get any further on the recaros? Looking at putting some in my car and wondering if you sorted the low height and seatbelts? @M3AN

It's a really detailed model, which brand is it?

First thing I noticed too but didn't want to be that guy ?

If they dont use a torque wrench, tell them to get farked and go somewhere that does. I dont know why but it seems tire shops attract low IQ muppets now days, and no one gives half a sh*t there.

An easy check is to see if there any any cracks in any visible hoses/pipes, especially the intake pipes after the MAF, going to the inlet manifold.

Pm deets and cost plzzzz

Chuck some thick oil and smoke stop in it, get it through a wof, and trade it in (or send to turners) asap. Sucks though, what a gorgeous colour!

Sure pulls a lot harder now!

Need to stick to either 17 or 18s

I can't make this stuff up, I really can't. I found out why the Vanos isn't working, and it's not what I was thinking... I have been messing around for the past few days trying to get INPA and DIS to work properly. I can get INPA to read everything but the DME (ECU), but I finally got DIS working today, and its reading the engine DME. This means I can finally read engine codes and see if there is anything obviously wrong. That's a yes then. This was the only code, thankfully. I had wondered about the TPS since the reading from live data in the VNC (Vanos Control unit) in INPA was weird, but the VNC didn't have codes for those sensors, only Vanos related ones (of which it had an old code for something random in German, which wasn't an active code). So what was weird? Well, the Throttle Position Sensor either read as below, with the engine off And didn't change when the throttle was opened, or did this when the engine was running (also note the two bars at the very top not reading anything) That reading looked familiar.... almost like it was reading engine position. I disconnected the plugs, and checked the wiring colours. This was the plug off the TPS And the Intake Cam Position Sensor These two live right next to each other, and have identical plugs. I check the wiring diagram, and sure enough the TPS colours were wrong. It should be Brown, Brown/Black and Red/Yellow And the CPS should be Yellow, Black and Shielded Brown So, what does that mean? Well, the two connectors had indeed been swapped. I swapped them over, connected them as they should be, and checked in INPA again. The TPS now read correctly, and I also noted that the two top bars now also had a reading, so suspect that's linked to the cam sensor. You can also see from the above photo, that the engine finally idles at the correct RPM now too. Obviously the engine thinking it was at WOT, but not moving, was causing the DME to keep the idle up. The result? Its picked up a lot of down low power, almost like the Vanos is now actually doing something. Funny that. Easy way to gain power, much easier than Type-R stickers or a pod filter. The exhaust sounds different too, I suspect this is down to the cam timing being correct now, instead of the inlet cam just sitting in one spot (or maybe even varying depending on throttle position!) With the idle also correct, unfortunately the misfire at idle is more obvious. Hopefully it's either Vanos, or something simple like spark plugs or coils. I'll check them out shortly. I can only presume this switch happened when the previous owner had everything unplugged to replace the head gasket. That was in 2016, so obviously it's been wrong for a while now, but confirms that I was right about the Vanos not working. It's still slower than my old M3, but hopefully rebuilding the Vanos can make that gap closer.

At the moment its just a case of getting what ever i can that will fit, with good tires, so i can ditch the 20s as they are stupid.

Hi all In order to remove the subs from my boot im going to need the standard linings to tidy the boot up I need the floor panel and carpet over the spare wheel, and the plastic cover over the battery. I think all the other trims are still there, hidden behind subs. This (with or without the straps. And is there a hard board under this over the spare wheel?) This

They'd suit a 5 or 7 series much better, and probably rub less ?

So four years ago (woah, four years!) I had a rather decent early E36 M3. I had a thread here, Unfortunately I made the mistake of selling that car, and M3s aren't getting any cheaper, so now it's harder than ever to get another one. Rubbish ones are expensive and good ones are even more expensive. A couple of months ago I purchased an E91 335i, which although having been modded, so it was fast, it was as dull as bricks to drive otherwise. I wanted another analogue car, like an M3, where the only driving is done by me, not a computer. I put the E91 up for sale and got offered an E36 M3 for a swap, which of course I'm going to be super interested in. Unfortunately the seller was someone reluctant to provide VIN details of the car initially, and it turned out that it was actually a 328i that had had a full M3 conversion. Initially I wasn't interested, I wanted a "real" M3, but the more I thought of it, the more a reshelled car actually made sense to me. I didn't want to modify my previous M3 much, as i was concerned about ruining its "originality", so a car that already wasn't original means i can do the mods i didn't do to the previous M3. It sadly also means that it doesn't hold the same value as a real M3, but oh well. So this is what I have ended up. 1996 BMW 328i Shell (New Zealand New) Boston Green Metallic Slicktop The donor M3 was a South African spec BF92 1996 M3 in Daytona Violet 3.0L S50B30 engine (no emissions gear, no cats, but the full fat engine unlike the early SA spec cars) 5 Speed manual with LSD Vader seats (Nappa leather) M3 suspension and brakes The donor had aluminium doors, but they weren't carried over The only mods are 20" Chrome Work VS-KF Full sound system with full boot install and a sully sik early 00s flip up touch screen headunit Everything else is stock M3. Unfortunately the car is a complete basket case, and has way more issues than expected and more keep popping up every day. The good thing is that I love a project, and fully intend to have this car as a nice solid car I can enjoy driving. The good first New headlining Good condition interior (except steering wheel where all the leather has been removed) Tidy exterior (and Boston Green is a stunning colour!) Smooth gearbox and quiet engine (other than Vanos noise) Head gasket and timing chain recently done, with head professionally cleaned up So far the issues identified are Vanos is dead. No power below 4000rpm, and can hear the usual grumble/rattle. (Kinda fixed) Starter doesn't always engage first time (free spins and engages when key is released, and then will start next try) (Fixed) Passengers window only goes up about an inch at a time (Seems to have fixed itself for now) Ignition barrel sometimes free spins (Fixed) Airbag light stays on a long time before going out. Codes for passenger occupancy sensor (Fixed) Shifter bushings well and truly gone (Fixed) A high idle (Fixed) A vacuum leak (Fixed) Headlight low beam not working on one side (since fixed. Fuse) Oil cap hemorrhaging oil (Fixed) All exterior rubber seals badly perished Driveshaft coupling cracked and falling to bits (Fixed) Clutch bites at the floor and the clutch pedal is offset/twisted to the left (Fixed) Washer bottle sensor failed (Fixed. Sensor upside down) No ext. temp sensor connected Gearbox selector shaft seal leaking (Fixed) Hose clamps missing or loose on fuel lines under car (Fixed) Front LH tire losing pressure (Fixed) 20" wheels rub on all four guards (Also Fixed) Muffler hangers loose (Fixed) Throttle stop badly adjusted so no WOT (Fixed) Worn out and perished throttle cable (Fixed) Aux fan not working (Fixed, fuse) And there will no doubt be more things I discover as i go. In the meantime the car is mostly driveable, albeit leaking oil from the oil cap quicker than I can clean it off, and pumping the tire up each time I drive it. The plans are to fix all the above issues, starting with the wheels are are stupid and huge, and then finally getting around to doing some mods. I have also ordered a bunch of other parts already, including Vanos seals. Unfortunately the seller twisted the truth on the KM the donor car had on it, claiming the cluster fitted to the car was sourced from a friend and is from a different M3, and the original donor has about 80,000km less than the cluster (and the donors cluster was faulty so it was sold). INPA confirmed that the cluster is the one from the original donor.... so yeah. I'm looking at maybe fitting a pair of Recaro seats, as they are more comfortable than the Vaders, but need to look further into he mounts for the floor. The sound install in the boot will probably be coming out and standard boot linings/trim fitted. The subs sound average, likely due to settings on the amps, and i don't care enough to set them up properly. I also want to upgrade the suspension, but keep standard-ish height (due to my steep driveway). Thinking Koni shocks and either stock springs or H&R. Swaybars are apparently a good upgrade too, as are binning the original rubber bushes. This is the story of my 1996 BMW M328i In the meantime, here are some photos.

Like this thread? just a screw through the housing? https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1518698-Spinning-ignition-lock-cylinder-tumbler-fix-WITHOUT-having-to-buy-any-new-parts

E36 spinning ignition barrel issue. Mine seems to do it some times, and the key just free spins. You wiggle it a bit and eventually it works and keeps working ok for a bit. I have googled and some people say there is a pin that just needs to be aligned, but has anyone here fixed this before and was it that simple or should i just replace the barrel?

sh*t yeah, sounds like someone hasnt scanned/diagnosed the car properly, and actually gotten to the root cause. Thats a lot of money they have just burned for probably no reason.

They're to suit an E36, without needing guard work so i guess something near +40 offset, and 7-8.5" wide would be good.