thorburn

just got in contact with znoelli and they were very helpful and can sort out rotors for it but they will still be going up for sale Thank you everyone for your help

yes it is a weekend car that will see track time eventually. And the more i think about it the more i have to agree with you. These are over the top for what i need. And money can be better spent in other places. to trademe they go or pm if your interested

Can get new 1 piece rotors out of the states but they only come in cross drilled and are known for warping There are also 2 piece available 332usd for each hat, 312.95usd for each vented rotor and 81.95usd for each of the hardware I know i really shouldn't be trying to go cheap on bigger brakes I haven't been able to find a substitute from another vehicle Dimensions i need are 320mm diameter, 28mm thick and 60mm height If all else fails they will be for sale

trying to make these work. The calipers already have mounts for the e36

Can anyone recomend anywhere that can build custom hats?

Continued to move parts from the corner of my room to my car. This weekend was fan delete and coolant flush. Link that helped: http://www.understeer.com/fanclutchmod.shtml Fan delete used 80 degree thermostat (11 53 1 466 174) and 80/88 degree fan switch (61 31 8 376 440) I will be getting an electric fan to go in place of the original fan at some stage. Does anyone have any links to one of a suitable size? And i need to think of how i want to wire it in once i do get it No change felt but it is a little bit more weight out of the car and it's hopefully worthwhile preventative maintenance (Later I put the fan back in the car, i will still be getting an electric fan) Next step is getting my wheels fixed and sorting out the clutch

bump

unfortunate about the knee any chance of a video once the laptop is revived

I like it a lot. has he shared the dyno chart yet?

I had coombes johnston in hamilton put them in. I'd hope they would have the right tools haha They gave me a call saying that i didn't have the right part. They eventually got them in though I couldn't feel any difference with these installed. But from what i have read they should have a lot more life in them

did anyone else have problems with getting them pressed in?

front http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=31&fg=10 rear http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=33&fg=45

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....p;hl=motorsport

Just took the car in for a wheel alignment and i have a problem. Caster L=5.88' R=5.95 Camber L=-1.87' R=-1.25' What would create such a difference in camber? My first guess would be my control arm is bent on the right side. Any help would be much appreciated Edit: control arms are the same length and the cause was a washer that was stuck with lock tight between the shock and spindle

My cars current camber arms measure from bolt to bolt (lengthwise) 550mm. With the adjustable camber arms set to the same length as the standard camber arms, the thread inside the shaft is 23mm either side. I hope that makes sense If you want any more information about them i am happy to share.

My guess would be either the switch needs to be replaced. here is a DIY for it http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/bmw-oem...switch-diy.html or there is a short. Most likely between the boot and boot lid

the 318 bars are thicker then m3 bars. See here for more details: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=29776 Does anyone have some 23.5mm sway bars that i can borrow for a trial fit? Edit: Ditched this idea and now have a 23mm swaybar that fits. Just for future reference

Yes they are adjustable. I'll take some photos and measurements tonight if you'd like Not sure of how many degrees it will change. redline couldn't tell me either.

Started adding m3 bits to my car Lemforder offset control arm bushes and Meyle heavy duty outer ball joints. I had these installed by Coombes. For the price i paid it'd probably be cheaper to buy a press and do it yourself. m3 Bilstein struts, H&R m3 sport springs, Lemforder m3 evo strut tops, m3 strut top reinforcement plates + other bits Before: After: (after this photo my craving for camber kicked in, so I switched the top hats) Still need to sort out a front sway bar that will be suitable for attaching to the strut. At the momment i am thinking i will try use a 23.5mm bar out of a 318. I have no idea if this will work so any advice would be great

you know you will probably need a cert for them as well i hope i am not stating the obvious

otherwise you could trade the fuel level sender for another fuel pump. All you need to do there is twist the fuel level sender on the passenger side. otherwise it bolts right in. You'd have to use the white fuel pumps with the return line built in. Not sure if you can drill through the blue fuel pumps to create a return line

I got a pair of these just the other day. still yet to install them http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/?actio...;type3=European

does anyone know where to get brembo decals that can handle high temperatures?

early m3's had 22.5mm sways. m3 evo's have 23mm. 25mm was a bad choice to base that on. Instead if one was to use a 23.5mm bar from a 318 would this be an acceptable sway bar? I was wanting to know if people use adjustable endlinks to adjust preload.For me i would like to get rid of any preload caused by changes in corner weight and lower suspension. Or is this not noticable until you go to extremes? the 328i with motorsport suspension has 25.5mm swaybars What swaybar's do you currently have?

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_project/...g/sway_bar2.jpg Is there any clearance issues if using an e36ti sway bar (25mm one) on a 6 cylinder? does anyone use adjustable endlinks for adjusting the preload on the bar?