thorburn

Continued to move parts from the corner of my room to my car. This weekend was fan delete and coolant flush. Link that helped: http://www.understeer.com/fanclutchmod.shtml Fan delete used 80 degree thermostat (11 53 1 466 174) and 80/88 degree fan switch (61 31 8 376 440) I will be getting an electric fan to go in place of the original fan at some stage. Does anyone have any links to one of a suitable size? And i need to think of how i want to wire it in once i do get it No change felt but it is a little bit more weight out of the car and it's hopefully worthwhile preventative maintenance (Later I put the fan back in the car, i will still be getting an electric fan) Next step is getting my wheels fixed and sorting out the clutch

bump

unfortunate about the knee any chance of a video once the laptop is revived

I like it a lot. has he shared the dyno chart yet?

I had coombes johnston in hamilton put them in. I'd hope they would have the right tools haha They gave me a call saying that i didn't have the right part. They eventually got them in though I couldn't feel any difference with these installed. But from what i have read they should have a lot more life in them

did anyone else have problems with getting them pressed in?

front http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=31&fg=10 rear http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=33&fg=45

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....p;hl=motorsport

Just took the car in for a wheel alignment and i have a problem. Caster L=5.88' R=5.95 Camber L=-1.87' R=-1.25' What would create such a difference in camber? My first guess would be my control arm is bent on the right side. Any help would be much appreciated Edit: control arms are the same length and the cause was a washer that was stuck with lock tight between the shock and spindle

My cars current camber arms measure from bolt to bolt (lengthwise) 550mm. With the adjustable camber arms set to the same length as the standard camber arms, the thread inside the shaft is 23mm either side. I hope that makes sense If you want any more information about them i am happy to share.

My guess would be either the switch needs to be replaced. here is a DIY for it http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/bmw-oem...switch-diy.html or there is a short. Most likely between the boot and boot lid

the 318 bars are thicker then m3 bars. See here for more details: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=29776 Does anyone have some 23.5mm sway bars that i can borrow for a trial fit? Edit: Ditched this idea and now have a 23mm swaybar that fits. Just for future reference

Yes they are adjustable. I'll take some photos and measurements tonight if you'd like Not sure of how many degrees it will change. redline couldn't tell me either.

Started adding m3 bits to my car Lemforder offset control arm bushes and Meyle heavy duty outer ball joints. I had these installed by Coombes. For the price i paid it'd probably be cheaper to buy a press and do it yourself. m3 Bilstein struts, H&R m3 sport springs, Lemforder m3 evo strut tops, m3 strut top reinforcement plates + other bits Before: After: (after this photo my craving for camber kicked in, so I switched the top hats) Still need to sort out a front sway bar that will be suitable for attaching to the strut. At the momment i am thinking i will try use a 23.5mm bar out of a 318. I have no idea if this will work so any advice would be great

you know you will probably need a cert for them as well i hope i am not stating the obvious

otherwise you could trade the fuel level sender for another fuel pump. All you need to do there is twist the fuel level sender on the passenger side. otherwise it bolts right in. You'd have to use the white fuel pumps with the return line built in. Not sure if you can drill through the blue fuel pumps to create a return line

I got a pair of these just the other day. still yet to install them http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/?actio...;type3=European

does anyone know where to get brembo decals that can handle high temperatures?

early m3's had 22.5mm sways. m3 evo's have 23mm. 25mm was a bad choice to base that on. Instead if one was to use a 23.5mm bar from a 318 would this be an acceptable sway bar? I was wanting to know if people use adjustable endlinks to adjust preload.For me i would like to get rid of any preload caused by changes in corner weight and lower suspension. Or is this not noticable until you go to extremes? the 328i with motorsport suspension has 25.5mm swaybars What swaybar's do you currently have?

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_project/...g/sway_bar2.jpg Is there any clearance issues if using an e36ti sway bar (25mm one) on a 6 cylinder? does anyone use adjustable endlinks for adjusting the preload on the bar?

this sounds like a good game. will be watching for tonights results have you played 'i wonder if the electric fence is turned on'?

e30 m3 at coombes Hamilton http://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=bmw213

I take it you have an old 325 with strut mount sways? These have the same control arms as an e36. So mounting them will be no problem. Just get different endlinks There is a good discussion of strut mount sways vs control arm mount on bimmerforums. I'll try find it again I think the gist of it was people found they had a better 'feel' from the strut mount. The only other bennefit was that you can run a thinner sway that weighs less OT/ what strut inserts are you going to use?

Yes they come with tyres. Tyres are yokohama 205/55 DNA Grandprix. 3 have about half tread. 1 has a puncture and is a bit more worn on the shoulders

do you have any pictures and details of the seats? sad to hear it isn't going to get finished