Forrest

^ Yeah I had the idea of scotchbrite pads used together with Autosol. I will see if that makes a difference. Yeah it is pretty key to keep it going in the same direction. James, isn't that Silvo stuff only polish for silver things? Didn't realise RS's are Silver plated :S maybe that'd explain the price

I have recently been giving my wheels a little love and polishing them. I used a slightly 'more abrasive' polish on a couple scratches on the polished lips. This in turn exposed the slightly dull 'chrome' dish to a near mirror polish. I used Autosol which seems to work, but it takes forever to do just a small patch to a mirror finish (I want to do the entire lip on all four wheels). I also have tried Mothers Mag + Alloy Wheel Polish which works, but not to the same extent as Autosol did, which I already knew was quite abrasive. Does anyone recommend anything else/had better success with something else? Before anyone asks I am NOT getting the wheels machine polished, I am doing this all by hand, to work the biceps of course, gotta give the babes something to cream over Cheers, Nath

^ Don't coupe ones usually have a tapered edge for the longer doors? But yeah, any sideskirts will do not the first time I have 'adjusted' something on this car Thanks Jase

Tech 1 etc etc anything considered. Paint isn't an issue, just don't want any obvious cracks that will need welding or repair. PM me. Cheers, Nathan

^ OT but E34play saw your old E34 down here in Wellington the other day, still looks tidy as ever.

To add a point of helpfulness to this thread, I just buy your generic rubber ones from ripco/superheap, then cut a slot near the top right corner of the drivers one with a stanley knife, undo the accel pedal clip then slide the mat over the pedal and then reclip the pedal down. If you cut it in the right place it looks tidy and atleast the mat doesn't slide everywhere now that it has its own locking mechanism.

It is just a 16v blacktop (300,000km old out of a Toyota Corona Taxi lol) with nothing flash just K+N and the Fraser Headers and Exhaust puts out around 130hp ish through a T50 gearbox. Want Dad to upgrade to a 20v Silver Top with ITB's

Ahh another gem of a thread... Have you ever looked inside a E60/63? Pretty sure the E30 interior design and layout is a distant memory now

This is awesome, my Dad's Fraser has a 4AGE and I drive a Focus ST170 which has a distant future cousin of this motor, I would hate to think how much fun it would be adding the two. Best of luck mate

Wow how bout sending him a pm....your not even a n00b. Actually from the original post.................. yeah you are

HB Shelly, hope you have a awesome day

Captain Obvious strikes again

^ Sorry Cam thats what I mean't. Long day

^ I'm pretty sure it is 80 - 90. It is Turbo 4WD so it does look expensive compared to your evo, rex etc.

^ Well my Dad loves it, Yup it has the Volvo 5 cyl motor. Has a heap of torque, can leave it in 6th gear at passing lanes, just give it a bit of welly and blow past anything, sounds awesome too. Ford NZ brought a few of these in: http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/hatchb...rive/index.html Trying to convince him to upgrade...but at 90k it isn't a financially viable option when this has far more bang for buck than the RS. Very cool car, worth an upgrade over the GTS ..(I would say that being a true blue Ford fan)..but then again Dad did trade in a 310kw FPV GT for the Focus so nothing is impossible haha.

Sell the M52 buy a early M50 motor IMO. What are the 'real' power/torque gains of a M52 to a M50? Aside from having a sweet 2.8 E30? I guarantee it doesn't justify the 3x price tag to get it running than a M50 would. I would do the above unless all you can factor a Link or similar into your budget. I know of a few people getting M50's in the car and running for $1500 ish. Looks like all the dicking around with these wanky chips and computers could be money used on something that is far more likely to go first pop. Measure twice, cut once. My $0.02.

They look like our Focus XR5 Turbo's Wheels Nice choice though should look great, you'd think so with the attached price tag

^ Okay sweet see how we go

^ Yup sweet I am in no rush. Am free Monday + Wed night

^ Cheers Oli, I will sort out a multimeter to borrow

^ Yeah I am going to replace all the plugs. Might swap the relay too and see if it fixes it. Really can't see what else could go wrong really

Isn't that what I just said????

^ It is a 260. Pretty sure manual M30 boxes are 265? Someone feel free to correct me

Does the bolt on the tie rod end that is spinning have a allen key fitting in the top of it? I use a ratchet spanner (or a ring spanner is fine) have it sitting on the nut, and while I am doing it up I have a allen key in the top bolt to stop the bolt spinning and just the nut turns. If that fails, vice grips are your friend will just mean you will need new tie rods next time probably

So noticed today for the first time in ages with my car immobile, I turned the lights on with the key in the ignition and the number plate warning light came on, on my check panel. Checked fuses = fine Checked bulbs = fine Checked power at electrical connectors to lights = no power Checked earths inside boot and on rear seat stay = fine + cleaned up to be sure with sandpaper Checked power at plug for the rear lights check relay (beside the radio ariel on top of LHS of boot beside shock mount at the points for the associated colors for power for each number plate light (grey + grey/black) according to the wiring diagram = no power What have I missed? I know it is quite hard to analyse electrical problems without actually being there, just wondered if someone can connect the dots and read the diagram better than I can. Here is the wiring diagram I am using, everything else works fine, aside from the number plate lights. http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e30/e30_85.pdf I know it will end up being something stupid, just thought I would put that out there. Cheers, Nathan