hybrid

exceeeelent... its begging for a front splitter.. make it adjustible too

Thanks for the exclusive content .. I'm sure I speak for everyone here .. your secrets safe here

Cash sitting here ready and waiting, would like to officailly order. How ?

win Its going to look awesome when finished.

Operating frequencies: 10.500 - 10.550 GHz (X band) - Disabled for NZ 24.050 - 24.250 GHz (K band) 33.400 - 36.000 GHz (Ka band) 13.400 - 13.500 GHz (Ku band) - Disabled for NZ 820 - 950 nanometers (Laser)

Verrrry nice. The cert processes isnt that hard. Just pay attention to the drive shaft hoops needed and the hoops (as of last year) need to have 2 bolts a side (4 in total) per hoop. The number of hoops is subject to how much power your car is putting out. EG 500hp RWD car is different to 500hp awd car etc. Best check with your certifier you are going to use. Theyre only a phone call away. Engine mounts if different will be looked at and any custom work to the drive shaft. Low volume have a great forum now for asking specific questions.

I should stop posting howto's

I have a wad of $$$ here for when its ready.

great stuff man .. weldone you.

Pretty cool conversion. Would of been nice with pre-fl coupe m3 headlights and guards and other m3 details to keep it inline with the full look. There was a full m3 sedan conversion done by someone on e46fanatics a while a go. It turned out perfect.

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=34872

Two options * OEM m3 plate holder or * Carefully nylon fishing line the sticker off with 'desolvit' to help remove the glue .. it will take some time .. but works without damaging the paint. Use proper 3m panel tape to tape the number plate onto the bumper .. make sure both surfaces are clean. It is water proof, make sure that when you align it its how you want it else the only way you can get it back off is fishing line and desolvit again.

Hmm I think a lot of it is just not enough temprature in the tires to grip as they should vs going to fast. Slicks blow when theyre cold / boarderline scary even. Your right though, looks like a few of those guys are over tireing their cars.

Interesting .. Would be interested more if it ever gets a carbon airflow dam to stop heatsoaked air into the engine. Same sound, lots more performance and a bit more longevity to be had .. pretty cool idea however doing an s62 MAFless with map/alpha-n style tune.

ouch .. http://www.youtube.com/user/fingervideo#p/a/u/0/kHVg3YX5tQo

haha nice ... I like this one too .. the end caption is pretty classic.

James, as I was saying the other day .. the only way youre going to know is running a ohm or voltage meter across it (depending on what output the hall effect sensor is putting out) An occiliscope will only show signal. Unless you have something you can compare it against, it wont mean too much to you. Map it with something else first, the we can take mine for a run and map the same signal to see if its the same. (profile) I would say that it is loosing count (for what ever reason) between the halleffect sensors and the cam timing teeth, the SM4 will then panic and call the safety program. Last time I read up for autronic you had to shave off several timing teeth to suit the SM4's counting algorythm. Also need to determine what side its having the problem on. IC or EC. What might be happening also is the cam postion (VANOS) may not be reaching its target. The way MSS50-s52-S54 work is the DME has a target profile setting and the vanos adjusts its solenoids and therefor oil pressure to actuate the pistions. Here is some profiling I have been doing on mine with this sh*t I've working on. It has RPM, Throttle postion, intake cam target, intake cam actual, exhuast cam target and exhuast cam actual. Excuse the scale of these .. I have adjusted the formulas so they all fit on the graph .. otherwise RPM would dominate the scale @ nearly 8000rpm vs say the cam signals. This is an on-ramp @ WOT (where TP = 100%)

What was on the car Forged Works Rezax II's @ 19 x 8.5 on 235/35ZR19 91Y and 19 x 9.5 265/30ZR19 93Y @ et39 half a finger gap on the rear with no scrape daily driving or track. Maybe on very hard compression such as lots of people in the car and big dip in the road. Whats on the car now Non forged CSL reps @ 19 x 8.5 on 215/40?ZR19 88Y and 19 x 9.5 265/30ZR19 93Y @ et17 and et21 (e46 m3 offest) this is why the front fit and the rear doesn't For the rear a et33 would have been the better option. Same look you were after with out adverse mods needed to make it work. Or maybe gone for a 10 inch wheel at et38 and sneak on the 265 to it.

I'm not sure why you just didn't get the correct offset wheels in the first place? the guards look a bit rangi now :/

Liked at all the driving... was some pretty epic stuff in there. Do agree with the subway ad ending though .. I think its a american thing.

If youre going all out .. Buy some spare wing mirror covers and paint them to balance it They are just covers that can be removed easy enough and im pretty sure ray will have some up there to test it on. Also the boot 'spoiler' lip ... all the same colour as the wheels. Carbon fiber Vorstiener splitter and done .. Now you have changed the grill and inner headlights maybe tint the front side markers darker to match.

The rears weren't welded only the fronts have this. The whole car was cut back to bare metal, the rear guards where then pumped out using a hydraulic ram to suit the new wheel offset, then the metal was shaved and sanded flat again to remove any rippling or imperfections (no bog). Then the car was repainted. This was the only way not to damage the double skin on the gaurds.

KW v2 You're looking at pushing out gaurds that have already been flared. The rears have been pumped and shaved to keep the profile of the edge. Rolling it with a guard roller will bend the flat edge and most likely crack the paint even with heating it. You can go the camber route this will wreck the geometry and neutral turn in. The suspension was setup professionally to retain the handling characteristics it has (I spent near on a grand getting it setup right). Changing will add lift off oversteer. Not saying you cant do anything of this ... there are going to be adverse effects is all.

SammyJ's intructions only cover updating the dealer code which has nothing to do with the programming of the control modules. Unfortunately there is a lot of miss information flying around the net around this. Including the coding for the e46 gearboxes.

Good stuff on your personal touches. Just a FYI with the guards. I would be very careful before using a guard roller on them. They have been extruded and rewelded, you run the risk of damaging that work that was done. EG the front gaurds are actually three gaurds welded together. good luck bud.