hybrid

Hmm yeah I read that and thought it was wrong ... have corrected it now.

All ET/OFFSET is still dependent on tyre and wheel size so bear this in mind if you are trying to fit wheels from one model to a different model, also if the car is lowered then you may have issues with rubbing/non fitment due to fouling. The higher the ET number the more the wheel will sit inside the wheel arch 1 Series E81/82/87/88 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 35-45 3 Series E21 = PCD 4x100, centre bore 57.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 12-20 3 Series E30 = PCD 4x100, centre bore 57.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 15-35 3 Series E30 M3 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 27-30 3 Series E36 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 30-41 3 Series E36 M3 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 35-47 3 Series E46 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 30-47 3 Series E46 M3 = PCD 5x120 centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. Fronts ET 30-47, Rears ET 20-27, 3 Series E90/91/92/93 = PCD 5x120, Centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 30-45 3 Series E90/92/93 M3 = PCD 5x120, Centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 34-37 5 Series E28 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 18-25 5 Series E34 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 13-20 5 Series E34 M5 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. 5 Series E39 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 74.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 15-25 5 Series E39 M5 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 74.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 15-25 5 Series E60/61 = PCD 5x120 centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 15-32 5 Series E60 M5 (Saloon) = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 12-32 5 Series E61 M5 (Touring) = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 12-32 6 Series E24 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. 6 Series E63/64 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 14-20 6 Series E63/64 M6 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 12-20 7 Series E32 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 19-26 7 Series E38 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 13-25 7 Series E65/66/67/68 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M14x1.5 bolt thread. ET 15-25 8 Series E31 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. X3 E83 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M14x1.5 bolt thread. ET 40-45 X5 E53 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M14x1.5 bolt thread. ET 40-45 X5 E70 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 74.0mm and M14x1.25 bolt thread. ET 37-53 X6 E71 = PCD 5x120, centre bore FRONT 74.0mm, centre bore REAR 72.5mm and M14x1.5 bolt thread. Z1 E30Z = PCD 4x100, centre bore 57.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. Z3 E36 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 30-40 Z3 M Coupe/M Roadster = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. Z4 E85 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 45-52 Z8 E52 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread.

Are you 100% sure it has spark ? Sounds like the blade fuse to the ECU has popped. from the battery you will see two power cables, a large one and a smaller one, the small one is where the ECU fuse surge fuse is. Remove the plastic capping and have a look for a heat shrunk 'fat' section .. in there is a flat blade fuse ... bridge it with some simlar gauge wire and try again. This power is a separate line to the ECU. I replaced mine with a circuit breaker as below

hmmmm maybe I should finally destroy my old e46 OE wheels n tires ..

awesome stuff, thanks for the update.

hey fella, this isnt a critisim at all just a suggestion, if your looking for 'the look' everyones going for. Its really all in the the tire choice. Im not talking stretch, but it you get a 35 profile with a shamphered shoulder and no rim protector.. it will give you more offset to play with, expose the rim a bit more and give ya that cut look.

Around the centering of the steering, Theyre suppose to use a steering lock or someone in the car holding it while thet adjust the tie rod ends out. This insures a centered wheels and centered rack. Its wheel alignment 101. After youve got your money back, go see justine at Tyretech in archers road. Talk to justine the manager. They know there stuff and do all of JC BMWs alignments.

I have emailed you both James's account details.

Sweet, just blow it up at hampton ... it will be lol

you can machine them down to 1 7/8's ... makes it incompatible with 50mm however. Basically, you need two or pick a hire company that hires 50mm

Concerntrate on your corner entry and exit points and with the gearing, get a feel for your gear selector points ... it sucks balls going from 2nd into 5th. Its sounds silly, but happens a lot when under pressure when you dont know the car. Another thing is you will get a feel for loading and unloading the car with brakes, its where people get hung up the most on the track ... going too fast into a corner as hampton can be a little deceptive as the track is quite wide so speed is hard to judge. Youll be sweet though, just build up to it and remember your only racing yourself .. not others. Everyones pretty good out there so I wouldnt worry about people bulleying you on the track.

Just build it up and find the limits of your car and driving skill. A few of us will be testing new setups so will be doing the same at the start.

Paid and Brendon is coming too so will chuck $$$ in tonight.

and conrods real dtm m3 got no votes in the Members Car 2010 (weekend driven/racecar) I should really pop around and take some photos of it.

Car is perfect .. dont change a thing!

My experience with Als wasnt good. Their welders had moved on and replaced with kids. Woolfe is the best by far as theyre a great price and have high range to low range stock (to suit your budget). Theyve always looked after me.

The cooling systems on e39's is a bit short life. The averange one only lasting around 120ks before it needs replacing. Plastic pipes, thermostats, aux water pumps, main water pumps, expansion tank. Also another issue is the Automatic trans 'heat exchnager' which causes your gearbox fluid to fluctuate to higher than normal operating tempratures in stop start traffic. Thus sending the EGS (gear box computer) to eventually try cool the fluid down by holding RPM until you get air flow over the radiator (which is what the heat exchanger is coupled too.) This gearbox mode also removes manual control until it cools down and jumps out of that mode. Another great BMW problem which doesnt show up as an error code in any shape or form. Again, thrust arm bushes causing clunks see Allans post here with real oem links http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....mp;#entry377151 http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=...hg=31&fg=05 Interior console buttons always split / break. Try for an NZ one as they have fold down rear seats which is hella handy. Sunroofs are nice!

Hey guys, Does anyone in the auckland area have a e60 5 series Westfalia swan neck tow ball (OEM detachible tow ball) handy I could pop around and test if it fits with my e39 OEM tow bar carrage. I need to test before sunday. PM me if you can help thanks Josh

Welcome pedro ... Man, that burnt bronze colour rules ... was well thinking about something like that. but yeah will most likely just stick with polaris. *sigh*

From personal experience. Singapore import Start motor soliniods ECU needed resoldering Windows and locking relays other general relay failures. Perished hoses and most of the cooling system needed replacing. Japanese import No issue what so all ..

cant wait! ... awesome stuff there ollie

Get these for your 5x120 e30 Will look rad http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-338884000.htm

hehe I tried to buy that plate a few years ago ... couldnt find it :/

1m ?

HB man ..