hybrid

Ive been through the same delimar as you ... Too many speeding fines and almost lost my licience several times prompted me to direct my hoon to somewhere a bit more pratical. I built my e30 with racecar in mind, all accept a roll car and full race interior for the ability to be able to drive it to work if I felt the need. Everything else however is setup for full track day use. The great thing is its made me treat the road with a lot more respect and I can still have a lot more fun out on the track where it really counts. as for some ideas and knowledge, obviously talk to some of the guys on here and maybe jump into bimmerforums track car build section, which is quite good for ideas and help on topics to do with BMW builds and racing albeit focused on US cars.

Nah you just gotta learn how to use it, tons of scope for rad photos and videos on them.... I wouldnt ditch the DSLR for one however.

hb man ... pop some jägerbombs oh and do a skid

on the shore. Will find some time to pop over.

whoring fo lyfe

Hate to say it but I dont think depo have the same option as OEM lights to switch over ... youll need most likely open them up as I was saying before and switch the masks inside the projector globe from left to right and right to left and modify them. Let me know if you need help, happy to lend a hand if needed.

tits

or if they're missing the switch .. you always just open them up and swap the sidewalk flare mask from light to the other.. you may need to shape them to fit the oppersite headlight but i did my e46 ones with a jar/tin car to bend them. (thats if theyre the curved type mask) If its a flat mask even better! Just be very careful when openening up the lights as the plastic stalks and locators can break .. no biggie tho.

yeah probably dont need to say, but you can remove the butterface tag from it now. good sh*t.

Enjoy

just contact your local dealer and ask for the options list motorsport suspension doesnt have self leveling my e39 is 705 M SPORT SUSPENSION II

When I re-do the paint and panels on the e30, Ill get this done for it good luck with the sale man, cant wait to see what youll go for next. BTW people this thing really is in amazing condition .. tom sure looks after his cars.

Those of you who watched my e46 build and their painting and prep of my e30 brake booster ... the care and workmenship of precision speak for themselves .. They aren't the cheapest but one of the best.

hb man ... sort ya greeny out will ya

I'm very interested in your e30 front and rear and under body strut and cross braces.

Thats worth every penny ... some cars here have gone for more than that! and not in as good condition. True concorse condition.

Work in the in enterprise LAN/WAN infrastructure game is crazy too, everyone wants things done on their projects before the holiday 'change freezes'.

Will do. It's a toss up between keeping the siliencer chambers and going with a Remus rear (about $1100 worth + install) Or removing some of the other center stuff. Johno's 7 series sound awesome .. its pretty much the sounbd I want ... not shouty but still have a nice burbble with a bit of throat. Its weird, the e46 (m54b30) had a full supersprint system (all but the headers) and it sounded great .. but almost a tad (a small tad mind you) too loud for a suburb crawler. maybe its just me getting older heh.

I would use a proper agency service brian .. it will cost you in fees but you can bypass the twats. That or look at maybe advertising it on classic car forums around the states etc etc.

Two real options for b32's 2 inch pipes from headers to retain torque or 2 1/2 inch pipes for a little bit of extra power in the top end but at the loss of low end torque (more useful for every day driving) Retain the pipes as straight and long as you can. You can run a center muffler about 1 1/2 meters up to keep it street legal. Back box muffler shouldnt be of the straight through type unless you going for a race setup. You can make extra power by having an X-pipe around after the headers but before the center muffler. This requires a lot of dyno and refabrication time to make work properly to get the correct position. Putting it in the wrong position will decrease power.

Thats not the best way.. as one slip with the prising part and youre repainting your boot! The is what I did. 1 x reel of fishing line 1 x bottle of Desolvit (wont harm paint) 1 x new clean rag some 3m panel tape spray Desolvit onto the the badge area. Let the desolvit soak into the tape a little. Use fishing nylon and place it on the top part of the badge inbetween the badge and the painted surface so it acts as a cutting tool. Pull down and tight on both ends of the nylon. The nylon _wont_ scratch your paint or rip up the tape prematurely (which will most likely rip the clear coat right off!) after the badge comes off youll have half of the tape sponge all over your boot. spray and soak with the desolvit also apply desolvit to the rag and rub firmly but still being gentle enough not to damage your paint from scrtaching. keep re-applying the desolvit and repeating until all gone.. you may have some gum left over which you can use desolvit and a fresh rag (without tape glue in it) to help remove. Wash and clean up your badge with water and dry. Apply 3m tape to badge and carefully reseat the badge in the correct OEM location. SORTED!

We should make a rule ... manditory pics for posts in this thread

Hounds tooth cloth for the rear and door cards http://www.westtrading.nl/detail.asp?Id=10...e=UK&t=Seat This is mine... let me know if you go to buy some as im keen as beans to recover my front seats.

Very interesting, looks like theyre up with most CAN BUS controller technology. I notice they do some of the stuff ive done before too gm5 door locks and window relays etc.

To show you what youre missing ?