Ahmedsinc

Has the DME been remapped for the increased fuel requirements?

Yup, the aluminium knuckles seem pretty soft & the spline count is far greater than I had anticipated. Just hoping I can line the sight marks back up when it goes in, probably the least enjoyable job so far! When you did the job on your coupe, did you need to tap the knuckles home with a hammer or were you able to slide them on just using your hands?

Argh, why the hell didn't I think of that! Thanks Glenn!

^^^ This! Have run various different grades in multiple engines, FI and NA over the years. Suffice to say quality shows. After pulling the M50 out of my car and taking the top covers and sump off, and observing the sludgy crap in the sump as opposed to the grey surfaces of the head, running full synthetic with 5000km oil & filter changes proves its worth. If you must run a cleaner through have the work done by a shop that offers a warranty on their labour. Chances are you'll end a wave of particulates through the Vanos screens, the fine oil squirters that jet onto the timing chain and cylinder bores etc etc etc and all hell will break loose.

As above, does anyone have tips on how to get the bloody thing back in? Was quite difficult to slide the bottom knuckle all the way to the end of the splined shaft to get it off, more so now. Have installed S50 headers so space is even tighter than when they came out. Thanks

The more I see of the M-sport optioned E60s the more I get the 'I wants'! Just such a pity there are so few diesel M wagons in NZ Anyways, apologies for the thread jacking

Sorry to be that guy, but is 14 grand a bit high for a 12 year old car with 190,000km on the clock and non-OEM wheels? Or am I just out of step with what people regard as a fair price? Not personally keen on the tail lights but that car otherwise looks great! GLWS

Getting the engine back into its natural habitat instead of spread across my shed floor Observing that there are 30 more pages of people bitching than being thankful for the good stuff in life. Lol!

Lololol, Civic

Lol, that's a good-un! Well done, should souvenir it for the shed wall But seriously, take it as an omen that your cooling system needs an overhaul. Makes for expenses that you probably hadn't budgeted on, but replacing a few hoses and a radiator is still easier than a head job / engine swap

Lol, what a winner! Maybe he was trying to remind you of your obligations as a seller under the Asshat Consumers Act of 1586, wherein it clearly states that a used cars engine failure, when bought privately on the secondhand market, is solely the responsibility of the private vendor to remedy or offer a complete no questions asked refund and supply a grovelling apology for the inconvenience? Send Brent a PM to confirm, i'd hate to put you on the wrong track bud

As far as I know the only changes to the B28 came with the double vanos TU update. Though Brent will be the best one to ask Good luck!

I'm gonna tentatively say yes, from what I understand the EWS is coded to the DME. If you're swapping an M52B28 for another M52B28 do you actually need to swap the DME at all??

Cruising revs don't tell the entire story. 3.91 final drive will turn your 5 speed into a 4 speed as first gear will be uselessly short. Unless you do a lot of burnouts, in which case stick with the 3.91 Given the M52B28 develops ok torque I'd look for a 2.93 or 3.07, definitely wouldn't bother going higher than 3.23. M50s benefit from the shorter gearing to mask our lack of bottom end torque, not so much of a problem for the B28. Yip, medium case is what you need. Complete pain in the ass job but it utterly transforms the car, you won't regret the swap

Wow, that things f*cked! Keep the wheels, manual kit, LSD, engine & loom, steering wheel. Buy a gallon of gas and a box of Beehives and turn the rest into ashes! Or be 'environmentally responsible' and send the rest to the scrappers.

Guesses lead to dumb mistakes. Chances are whoever did the conversion probably swapped the diff too. Stick your nose under the car and read what the tag on the diff says. If theres no tag, get the ass of the car up on stands, make an indicator mark with chalk from the driveshaft through to the diff housing and another at 12 o'clock on a rear wheel. slowly turn the driveshaft through one complete revolution and have a buddy count how many times the wheel turns. 3.64:1 = 3.64 revolutions of the output to the input, output being wheel where input is driveshaft. 3.07, 3.15 & 3.23 ratios can be a little hard to decipher using that method but it'll be close enough to get an accurate idea. Oh, and it will also help to know which gearbox was used in your car too.

Depends on whether you want faster acceleration or higher top speed. Going behind an auto or a manual? What ratio is in it currently? Do you want a complete bolt in unit or are you able to swap the internals correctly yourself? Entirely subjective and relative to your situations and ambitions. Details, and go!

B30 is a nice little jump from the 2.8 And the alloy blocks make neat little coffee tables

All of these! There's a guy in my region that has a rare form of cancer, and the community have undertaken a massive fundraising drive to get him overseas for treatment that isn't otherwise available in New Zealand. Not him pleading for help, his friends and family doing it for him because he's too damn humble to ask for help. That is a cause worth donating to. Sorry, but if your friend sank every last cent into buying the car and had nothing left for insurance, then your friend couldn't afford the car. Life sucks. Get another job to raise the money or store it until he can afford it. But its pretty damn rich to go round with cap in hand to cover a personal shortfall caused by naivety / poor planning.

Am I the only one that thinks this listing seems a bit suspect? Surely if you're trying to flog a car for 60 grand you'd at least take a couple photos to show its condition?!

M52 or M52TU? M54 & M52TU blocks are notorious for stripping head bolt threads when overheated. Can Timesert but I'd be too concerned about stress fracturing around the bolts to try it. My vote is a repower.

So one can reasonably assume the owner wasn't insured?

Offer him 1500 quid and a $20 bottle of plonk. Bout all its worth in current state. Motorsport E38s are a bit of an oxymoron really. I can't imagine there'd be a huge market for one locally, however rare & unusual it may be. Still, shame to see one turn up in such a state of disrepair!

Dead right. Looks like it'd be a good source of parts to tart up another car, but that'd be it for me. Still want those wheels for wife's car though!!

Most expensive set of M-pars Ive seen in ages!