Ahmedsinc

Rears look like they'd make good skidders, not to my tastes though

Ahh, that tends to make a bit more sense then. M50 manifold does flow a lot of volume, but the M52B28 does make a little more bottom end torque. Vanos on the earlier engines tended to smooth out the torque curve compared to the NV engines, I think it pushed the curve slightly further to the left as well. Given the B30 internals make more torque I'd be wondering if it was worth the trouble. How flogged is the M52 anyway? Could just swap the heads across and save all the extra work? What is the duration and lift spec of the Schricks? Buying new or have you found some used ones locally?

Nice price, shouldn't last long!

Not designed to take the torque from the bigger engines. Pretty well documented on the interwebs, they don't last too long when given a hard time. Medium case LS pumpkins are around if you know where to look. Kayne Barrie is a good guy to start with, Geoff on here, Ray, Brent, or even bring in a couple from overseas. Keep one for yourself and sell the others to make a few bucks back.

S50 used solid lifters, look further into that before making too many plans. Unless you're referring to S50US stuff, in which case they're fine. M54B30 internals will result in a lower static compression in an M50 block due to the M50 having a slightly taller deck height. Drops from 10.5:1 to somewhere in the low 9s from what I've read. M3 exhaust won't be worth much to you unless you use the S50B32 headers as well. Were I in your shoes I'd swap the gear into the M52B28. Weight savings from the alloy block improve your power / weight, and the MS41 DME can be reflashed in the car by the likes of Gavin. Far cheaper option than going full standalone ECU. Better flowing intake manifold than the M50 NV heads can be converted to vanos, but there is some machining to be done. Again, why bother when there's a Vanos engine at hand? Not meaning to p*ss on your parade but it does seem to be making things more complicated than is necessary Btw, stroker engines FTW!

Greedy bastard!!

32mm wrench, 3lb lump hammer and a good eye for aim. Like Grant, never failed me yet

Yup, realistically you're more like 8-9k including DME & loom. Budget all new gaskets and engine service items in too

Well, that ought to delay the problem for a couple of weeks at least!

At a guess it sounds like your torque convertor is about to lunch itself. Good luck with the manual conversion, I hope the depth of your pockets matches the height of your ambitions! Kayne Barrie in Auckland might have the gearbox you need, otherwise you gotta go trawling Fleabay. I see yours is listed as a 2001, M62B44TU? Probably wise to do the timing chain guides preventative maintenance at the same time as your conversion. Or weigh up the costs of both jobs at once, sell your car for parts and just get an M5. It'll probably be close to cost parity!

Cert not required if all OEM parts in factory locations are used. Insurance shouldn't change, just tell them the swap was done based on cost not performance. if you tell them at all I guess. Only time I've heard of a ZF manual trans failing was because it was utterly thrashed, and the engine in front of it was boosted. Ask Kayne Barrie if he knows of any around too, does a bunch of trans & diff work for the race series etc. He'll know where to find one.

Not concerned about aesthetics, just want sound welds that won't leak or crack. Will pass that along to my zorst guy. One would hope a magnet wouldn't stick to M headers / exhausts - would have to start wondering if they sourced their 'stainless' from China!

Yeah, rearranging the output flanges and need to work out which rods to get. Have found one American thread that suggests T409, but info is pretty scant

Bit of a nerdy question, but does anybody know what grade stainless was used on the S50B32 headers?

Will be watching this thread with great interest. Funny they'd swipe the computer (which will probably be the easiest race car item to trace - will flag up the first time the thief takes it in for a tune) but leave all the other goodies behind, something seems suss about all this. Shitheads!

What he said

Have a bad habit of developing spiderweb fractures on the rearward head bolt threads, have heard of a number of engines being junked when examined.

Need to find a 3-way hose connector, 19mm ID. Anyone know where to get them? Brass preferred but will take whats on offer. Ta!

Definitely genuine, will have a look at tread depth next time I'm in the pit. Came off wife's 530i wagon and were replaced with the wheels off your old car, I think the tread on the fronts isn't fantastic but depending on how long you need them for they should be ok. PM me if they're of use to ya

Replaced the CCV and associated plumbing on the E39. All the internets are right on the mark - utter pig of a job!! If the little yellow light comes on again it can be Glenns problem. I'm done!

Got some 16s from a 530i here if you want them. Nothing flash but they'll do in the interim

Dont write it off entirely mate, if you grabbed a set of M52 headers and took both sets to a shop they can cut the S54 flange off and replace it with the M52. M50, M52, M54 & S50 all share the same bolt pattern so theres plenty of options. Granted it wont be the cheapest option but it'll be far superior to those ones on trademe, I really don't see how they'd be any improvement on the stock ones currently on your 330i. Or if you have a friend with a Tig setup you could do it for the cost of beer & consumables

If you're lucky (like I was) you'll have split the radiator or had the expansion tank fail and nothing else. Get it to Glenn asap, the M54 engines do not tolerate overheating, the head bolts pull back out of the block and strip the threads if they're cooked = dead engine. Don't risk driving it in the meantime.

Personally I'd replace it with an all alloy race style item or go new OEM. Pelican parts have them for way cheaper than the local stealers ( I paid $300 incl shipping for a BMW branded Behr one compared to the $700+ I was quoted by Team McM) and are usually at your door within 7 days of ordering. Maybe your local dealership will take pity but I doubt it.

The plastic caps on left and right sides of the radiator. Held in place by little ali tabs on the radiator core. Odds are you probably pressurised the cooling system when the head gasket sh*t itself, not enough to blow the rad apart but enough to create some little cracks. The plastic also degrades with heat cycles and age, becomes brittle and fails, leaving you on the side of the road surrounded by a big steamy puddle. Get a leak down test done, and replace the cooler before its too late.