Ahmedsinc

I have read that the Japanese E39s followed a similar trans path as the E36 - licensed Jatco boxes in the early to late 90's cars then solely ZF transmissions from the 2000's onward. No idea how accurate the info is but it wouldn't surprise me if correct. My guess would be the M54 trans wouldn't run with the older TCU. Far better to find a good transmission from a matching car or have the current one rebuilt (if salvageable)

PM sent for flywheel

Lmao, probably worth about 10% of that figure now!

Most tradesmen that know their sh*t usually do come across as cranky - mostly because they're over being messed about by jockeys that think they know better because their mate / brother/ dad / random 'expert' on the internet told them so. I got sick of hearing it as a brickie, so I hate to think about the crap that guys like Glenn must hear on a regular basis!

From memory the Jap one is the US 'S50' engine - iron block M50 with a 3 litre stroker kit and slightly hotter cams. Has been repainted as well, engine bay is a different colour to the exterior - possibly bent then repaired at some stage? Makes 165-ish kW as opposed to the proper S50 which generates somewhere around 210kW and a far superior driving experience. The later 3.2 EVO models had nice touches like aluminium doors that the earlier models didn't get as well. I've anectodally heard of higher km (200,000+) examples selling for 7-11k, lower km well maintained ones are more like 15 - 25k. Really depends on whether you want a pristine minter that is just drive away material or a project, but be aware that the cost of genuine parts is not cheap, nor are they readily available here in NZ. I have no beef with LHD models as they're better balanced than the RHD ones, but the real world difference is pretty minimal for a car that isn't being raced. My guess would be aim for $15,000 as the midpoint, and go as far either side of that as you see fit / the budget (or the wife / significant other) will allow Factor in a Vanos overhaul and cooling system replacement as part of the buy price too, would be pretty terrible if you maxed out the $ to discover it needs another 3 grands work before its drivable!

Most of them will scan for fault codes fine, but the fault code only tells part of the story. For example a scan might show a fault code for an exhaust oxygen sensor fault but it usually indicates an air leak somewhere after the MAF sensor. If your local guy is halfway decent they'll be able to help you out - its pretty likely the faulty tensioner is the reason behind the airbag light coming on but you will certainly need a good scan & a tech with a brain to identify the problem. Best of luck, hopefully its not too expensive to sort out

99% of the time, no Take it to a dealership or a legitimate aftermarket specialist. Generic code scanners only tell less than half of the story

EuroItalian have treated me well in the past. Sterling Clutch & Brake in Onehunga, Brent @ BMWorld, BNT, Glenn our sponsor has given me invaluable advice over the phone and not charged for his time, Wallace Heron Engineers in Pukekohe.......the list really does go on. Will be ordering a replacement key through Milland soon, am interested to see how it goes. Moral of the story - most places away from the retail chain type parts places are usually staffed by people that actually know their stuff and can offer advice instead of hopeless conjecture.

$50 for the flywheel?

Pretty sure i slowly warmed it up with an LPG torch then softly tapped around the circumference with a brass drift and light mallet when I did my pumpkin swap. Didn't worry about heat shielding the bearing on the open centre as it was scrap anyway. Might pay to make a cone out of some old sheet if you plan on keeping it for an emergency

Loom damage is fine, nothing a little time with the soldering iron can't fix. Missing keys are only a problem if you plan to use factory management - I've always wondered how well one of these would run on a Motec. Interior would be good for a retrofit into a much older model - replacing those airbags would be costly! All said and done it looks like a candidate for an engine & trans swap into an E30/36, but if I were looking for parts for my own E9x I'd be wanting stuff that isn't f***ed

Haha, post of the day!

Looking at the photos I'd guess all the above parts are toast except the diff. Maybe. Would want to have an expert check the state of the bearings before I put it into another car. Given the state of the left front and rear right corners I would be keeping stress fractures and collapsed rollers in mind regarding the bearings. Sway bars will probably have bent too. Engine looks reasonably unscathed from the photo (God knows what its like underneath though) and one would assume the gearbox is ok. Good luck to all the interested parties, you'll probably be fighting Ray and Brent for it too!

Flywheel price?

Yip, heater plumbing should be fine. The flange on the rear of the head is the incoming hot water, the bottom outlet is the return.Might pay to introduce a bleed point on the hose junction to be 100% that you're not trapping any air as thats equal to the highest point in the E36 cooling system. You can eliminate the airbox temp sender by routing the hose back over itself on the throttle body, those little plastic lugs break real easy once they get a bit older. I had three fail on mine causing coolant leaks and resulting ballaches before I just ditched the circuit altogether. Can you just delete the lights entirely or do the series rules not permit that?

Agreed. Some epic kit on outlaws but it always seemed a bit too reminiscent of the old WWF format to me. Same goes for Gas Monkey, too slick & impersonal for my tastes. One loudmouth sales guy that shouts at his minions to do all the real work for him while clipping the ticket and the glory. Will be interesting to see how Roadkill develops now theres Detroit money involved. Hopefully they don't completely sell out but we'll see

The difference will primarily be in the headers / exhaust and a proper tune (not just AFR at WOT). US S50 cams will bump the numbers a bit up top, cold air intake and MAF delete won't really change things appreciably. Adding Vanos tends to smooth out and slightly push the torque curve to the left, my understanding tells me theres very little impact at the upper ranges as the cam profile retards back to 0º advance after 5k or 5.5k rpm. Another good one to look at to see just what can be done is SilverFox's M50B30 race build. 230ish rwhp and a healthy shot of torque too. Only difference to your setup is an M50B25NV exhaust cam to replace the 288º stock stick, S50 pipes but he had his DME remapped by Gavin. Great work Warren, would be cool to see a rolling road dyno printout to see what the actual numbers are at the rear treads Should be able to give a few of the M boys a bit of a scare now!

Thought it would be, no harm in checking though Thanks

Engine & driveline are probably salvageable. Not much else though! It wouldn't surprise me if the front quarters are CF, I recall looking at the M6 Brent had a while ago and was astounded at how much CF and aluminium was used in support panels where I was expecting steel. They just don't build 'em like they used to!!

They'll no doubt be due / overdue by now then. Pity that sort of info isn't on the trademe listing!

Just weld it up brah, she'll be sweet as!

Muscle truck needs the Hemi in Blasphemi more than the Gasser does. Just sayin!

Clutch & flywheel still available?

Roadkill is pure gold. The editor in chief of Hot Rod magazine in the States & one of his staff writers putting large amounts of time, and in some cases big $, into utter junk. Highlights are the Rotsun, General Mayhem & Pigpen, the GMC pickup that ultimately couldn't. Lots of Mopar and Chevy goodness. All on Youtube, all of it free! SO has its moments but it started getting hokey pretty quick. The machinery though..............

If the DME has gotten wet there's a pretty good chance the root cause of your issues could be in there. At a guess the traction control light and ABS lights are linked - bad ABS pump? Running issues could also be faulty MAF sensor and/or cam position sensor/s. Was the crank sensor a new or secondhand item? I'm no expert - theres plenty more guys around here that know way more than I do - but those would be the first few places I'd be investigating. Hopefully Brent / Grant / Glenn amongst others will chime in