Ahmedsinc

The alligator clips can be substituted for bare wires on the tongue for the slightly less masochistically inclined among us. However, your misadventure with the exercycle made me laugh to the point of an asthma attack - hearing of smart people doing REALLY stupid things makes me feel so much better about myself. Kudos, Allan

I'm just hoping he keeps it looking as shitty, I mean stealth as the M42T. #Iheartbeaters

Yeah, but Brent SUPERCHARGEDE46328i just doesn't quite have the same ring to it, ya know?!

Budget around 10k for a rough complete engine and driveline, more for lower mileage and SH. Another few hundred for E34 oil pan and pickup (assuming they will work with an S50 - read Hybrids build thread http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/24294-operation-weapons-grade/) and then a few more thousand for the needed suspension upgrades, brakes and all the other junk you'll need to make it a weapon instead of a timebomb. If budget is a constraint, go M52 turbo. Light, cheap, readily available parts, ridiculously well documented swap etc etc etc. Why not stroke your current M20 out to 2.7l then biff a turbo at it? Not the most powerful but still pretty well covered by the internets and from what I've heard makes for happy days on the street & the dyno. Probably the most cost effective option too, assuming your engine doesn't require an overhaul first

Bwahahahaha! What an utter cock!

Anyone know of anywhere / anyone in the Frankin area that sells genuine BMW coolant? Will order some from Coombes if i have to but would rather pick up myself if theres some available locally

Saw the print ad today - limit 2 packs. Still, makes it buy one get one free!

An N42 that survived 274,952km?!?!?! Should bubble wrap it and sell it back to Germany. Or whoever else wants to buy proof of the car gods' miracles BS aside, B30+ZF would be rather nice!

Yip, up to 1100GwH at full noise, though something like 70% of that is offset by our CoGen plants. Lol, has been talked about many times in the past - the bit that hasn't made the media is that our Collective Agreement is up for renegotiation very shortly. Its hardly the first time the rumours have surfaced about threats to shut the place Granted, commodity prices and Chinese oversupply have changed the game fairly drastically but I wouldn't be running about crying "The sky is falling" just yet.

Rears yes, front shocks definitely not. E30 uses a shock insert where E36 has a complete strut. Have got a niggling suspicion the springs would be the right shape for the front but whether the rates are suitable IDK. OP thats a nice kit to be getting rid of - why the change?

When / if this turns into an economic basket case, send me a PM. I've got an '85 NZ new 4-door factory manual 318i that I shouldn't be needing anymore in a couple months. 14 inch weaves, manual windows & sunroof, Alpineweiss, surprisingly few issues for a 30 year old car. Have replaced the thermostat as the original one had stuck open and just need to rewire the drivers side foglight as I suspect corroded terminals are the root cause of the diminished voltage at the bulb. Needs new shocks but other than that its pretty bloody good! Picked it up as a reliable daily for the time my E36 is off the road and so far its been impeccable, if amusingly underpowered

Interesting development! What is to become of the blower you used on the E36 then?

Wonder how long before BMW, Mercedes, Ford etc etc get caught up in this??

Ahh, thats a shame! Shite, thats eye-watering stuff! Clutch kit is cheaper than I guessed though.

If you have a semi-capable teenager with a passing interest in cars make him / her do it, under your 'supervision'. Means someone else does all the tedious stuff while under the guise of 'learning' something new. Works best if bribed with pizza / movie tickets / a beer as long as the relevant parents aren't aware Hell, thats how my old man got the clutch replaced in the Morris Minor and the Telstar a few years later! Then again, I always was a bit gullible........ That kit looks like it was expensive - how much was the new DM flywheel worth?

Holy thread resurrection, Batman!

IIRC, the flange mounting face is thicker on the NV cams so it needs to go back slightly to accommodate the timing chain. NV exhaust duration is 228º as well, hence moving the NV intake to exhaust and using the B30 intake as a replacement. As you've already got an NV engine maybe just find another intake cam to replace your current exhaust cam. Next time you're digging about it would be interesting to find out who did the chip. Gavin is basically the only one I know of that doesn't just go for full enrichment and calls it done. What muffler have you used for the middle? Had it dB tested yet?

Used sensors will often throw the same fault. $93 from MillAnd is pretty cheap, and will give you a conclusive answer. Alternatively, have it scanned by a specialist to determine the fault.

If you're running an Innovate it should be fairly reliable. Yah, 110Kw @ wheels seems about right for a 3l on stock B25 tune, is about what a standard B25 produces so given how lean the poor bugger would have been running its no surprise. Was your guy in Tauranga able to accommodate for different cam specs in his tune? M50B25TU has 228º intake and exhaust from memory, I'd go looking for a B25NV intake cam (240º, 9.7mm lift) to replace your current exhaust cam and a M54B30 intake cam (244º, 9.7mm lift) to replace your current one. Not a huge jump but a nice little gain in duration and lift for WAAAAAAAY cheaper than Schricks or custom ground ones. You will need to machine about 5mm from the face of the B30 intake cam to bring the sprockets back into alignment and allow the Vanos plunger enough clearance but its pretty easily done by a machine shop. Should also be able to accommodate the different timing on the stock DME if your tuner knows what he's doing. Or just take it all to Gavin at HiVelocity, he's done this before. Did you miss the Intake Air temp or Coolant Temp sensor? And have you welded a second bung onto your 'zorst for the wideband or have you managed to get the 413 DME to accept its input?

On Road Costs: Included Kilometres: 157,000km Body: Green, 5 door, Station Wagon Fuel type: Petrol Engine: 6 cylinder, 2793cc Transmission: Automatic Import history: NZ New Looks like he's just changed some of the details from the listing he used to have of an E36 wagon Beats paying for another listing fee

Ok, so with this 'generic' chip - what are the AFRs like and where did you get it from? Was this the chip you used when you had your 110Kw dyno run? What cams are you using in your engine? That tune might be what I need as an interim fix

Kms are about the same. The trademe ad is for the wagon he had - the coupe is north of 200,000 iirc. Way better looker and performer than the M50 up north, better quality suspension, has been owned by a guy that knows his sh*t as opposed to a sideways cap wearing muppet etc etc. If it still had the supercharger I'd be flogging my sedan off to buy his coupe. Alas, the blower has moved on to better things!

Gave the bugger three good doses of AC-90 and once the knuckles aligned with the splines properly it slid straight on, didn't have to unbolt the rack at all in the end. I suspect I got lucky - thanks for the advice gents!

Not looking at it from a performance perspective, more from a 'save your engine from pinking to death' angle. Did you get the chip from TRM by any chance? Could look at changing over to a Siemens MS41 as the maps can be reflashed in situ as opposed to pulling the chip every time it needs a tweak, taking the whole thing to Gavin at HiVelocity (he's done similar tunes before - ask SilverFox for his dyne sheets) or go standalone ECU - Motec, Haltec, Link, Megasquirt etc. Theres also those Apexi SAFC gadgets. Might raise the AFM reading the DME sees enough that it adjusts the fuel to compensate. No idea if the DME would cope or just completely freak out.

The fact that the seller is putting a $1200 premium on it for some aftermarket mags doesn't bode well. No picture of the cert plate (I'd want proof before going to look), and be aware that the cert plate is only current if the car has the same wheels on it as when it was inspected. So if it currently has 16x7s and the cert says 17x8 you shouldn't be able to get a warrant and will be stickered by the cops if they pull you over. It looks to me like the car has been converted from auto to manual so I'd also want to know what ratio diff is in it, and more importantly is it mentioned on the cert - if no, fail! Get some useful information from the seller and it might be ok. Or just buy Brents - more torque from the 2.8 and better goodies on it too. just my 2c