dubman

wire brush/wheel to bare metal, then etch > repaint for Best outcome. If it rusted through at any point, think about cut/weld solution, as that panel has a cavity. Moisture and oxygen will continue rusting it from behind. edit: didn't see pic, on work computer

I say go for it if that's your long term goal. Bargains like this don't come up very often. Just drive slower in the meantime so your don't need your brakes to be that good. Throttle aren't on/off (at least for the 1st dozen drives)

Bit of a thread dig, but cleaned my oil spray bar yesterday, and it made a BIG difference. It wasnt overly dirty or clogged, but it now no longer makes a massive "TICK TICK TICK TACKTACK TACK TICK" when cold or returning to idle/low revs. Took 30 mins, and wasn't a big task.

Trailer for the upcoming new season of Top Gear, debuting on the 1st July. anyone still excited about it? or just something better to watch than most other stuff?

Segedins dominion rd, they open till 4/5pm? or partsmaster in grey lynn open till 3pm. have a shop.

^ c'mon guys, now everyone will know about it Hondafit, you should invest in a scanner if you want to buy a bmw under 30k. every now and then, a bloody good deal will pop along on this site, with someone posting a link. You got to be quick though, otherwise the post disappears because the deals so good it gets deleted as it runs out of stock.

Mark then Elliot wasnt it? looks like it was/is in the bimmersport family

http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi Chassis number GF11548 Vehicle code DN62 Series E39 Model 540i Body type saloon Catalog model ECE Production date 2000 / 01 Engine M62 Transmission Automatic Steering Right Catalyzer YES Additional Information for Vehicle code DN62 Production FROM : 1998/09/01 TO : 2003/05/31 Engine M62 Engine Oil 7.50 Liter Transmission Automatic Transmission Model A5S 440Z Transmission Oil 9.70 Liter Rear Axle Oil 1.20 Liter Coolant(w/o Air Conditioner) 0.00 Liter Coolant(with Air Conditioner) 12.50 Liter Brake fluid 1.00 Liter Remarks : Final drive (rear axel), Automatic transmission: lifetime oil filing

maybe try dealers? http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E30/2-do...namics_package/

how bad's the rust? A decent repair (cut/clean/weld/paint) isn't going to be cheap.

yup, bmw webetk also down

sigh...wasnt having a go at them, was referring to another thread with them mentioned. For the record; i love'm

^ probably attached through cable tie method

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=32407 http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=14851 might be of some use

glws, might want to add VW/Audi into the keywords as well

Just keep an eye out for already completed swaps, or, removed conversions etc for sale, might be able to pick up a setup for a good price. Also, consider extra costs like clutch and worn items when doing the swap, and future running costs etc

yea, good point, cable ties are great but sometimes a bit toooo rangi

why not use screws to attach them together? it looks good regardless. Go to dealer and ask if they have any clips

+1, i flicker them to tell tailgaters to F' off. Do agree that some people don't know that their fog lights are on, but alot of people out their just use them to show off their car also, c*nts with full beams on at night on a fully lit street , seems to get more common

I've got the Ryobi p260, the one from Bunnings . Changed both front springs of the e30 using the impact wrench to undo all bolts and removed the struts completely from the car, with one single charge and some juice left. It's a solid performer and hasn't given me any trouble. I got the quick charge pack Drill (2 batt li-on + charger) with the impact wrench. Have a read of the review (I haven't experienced the battery coming off once, and I've charged it at least a dozen times already). Its a bit bulky and might be difficult to negotiate some tight spaces. Invest in a good 1/2inch impact socket set (shallow and deep) with an extension. http://www.caranddriver.com/features/impac...-tested-gearbox edit: ignore the tightening torque IMO, not that important.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/archive/ind...p/t-360703.html that might help

does it have a CCA number?

Segedins on Dominion Rd sells two different load rating versions of the jack Josh posted. I think they are the "Harbour Freight" ones that's sold in USA. Give them a try etc, but you'll prob end up buying it after (coz its good)

looking forward to seeing this around central! also keen to know about the powerflex bushings (design, fitness for purpose or materials used?)

good plan Julian, MOAR power.