dubman

update on this; mounts made up by TTT auto's, within specs certifier was happy with. yes, I know its going to be rough etc. but i don't have to worry about longevity of the material, and its not far off the comfort of "soft" urethane (hopefully LOL). Will update my project thread once cert plate comes

like 20-30 bucks at warehouse and kmart? bunnings and mitre ten prob sell real cheap also just don't expect quality

do you use a clutch stop (i.e a stop bolt behind the clutch pedal)? When i got my clutch done, was advised to adjust the travel of the clutch, to limit how much the slave rod pushes

warehouse and kmart sell REAL cheap ones lol

http://download.cnet.com/Image-Resizer-Pow...4-10905400.html GLHF with finishing it off, great potential

rear tow bar removal depends on how well it was fitted t55 torx to remove rear bumper, then just normal sockets etc to remove tow bar bracket and support. remove your boot carpet and rubber bungs above the rear rails (where the tow bar support goes into the body) Do you have spare OEM bumper mounts? When you remove the tow bar, you need the stock bumper mounts to re-attach he bumper. also look at xxx/45/16 profiles for wheel, kumho has ku31? in similar sizing? just a thought

Happy Birthday Simon! ha, last time he was advertising loans? had a chuckle

wat...? the bit you posted before, or was it the entire boot cleaned up?

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infoshee...Angle_Guide.pdf i've read on the LVV forum, as long as tyre treads are within the guards, its not too much "poke". have a look http://lvvta.proboards.com/index.cgi

Jaycar or model/RC hobby shops? i don't know about motometer ones, but they had ones for VDO at Jaycar(with slight modification)

not at all Mark, good to hear what others say. i'm just going by certifiers comments and recommendation, still got to ring around a few places and ask. I would still like the mounts to be heightened by 10mm, but alot of the "off the self" products probably won't have enough threads left to bolt to the mount arm safely. drivers side is alot heavier, so still got to factor in the weight each mount takes. Just thinking out aloud haha

the sagged engine mount pretty much made the engine solid mounted as it laid on the steering fluid line, and yes, idling was terrible. I slipped a 1cm nut in there just for clearance and relieve the stress, and as you can see, a nice little ding on the pipe, but no leaking or pierce lines (there goes a few hp's) can someone enlighten me what "through-bolt" really means? 1st i thought a bolt that goes right through the entire mount rubber to the other side (i.e through and through), then upon further reading, i thought it can't be, because my mounting studs are offset, hence, "through-bolt" would be a bolt that goes deep into the mounting material, so it cant completely detach if shearing occurs from the metal plate, unlike OEM m40 ones (LVV guidelines) If i go for urethane material, i would still like a heat shield cup for it, but i'll think about it a little bit more. Roughness of ride not really important, as clearance and longevity of the mount is more so. thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated.

sweet, thanks man. Will look into it still got design + follow LVV specs

i'll do some more research etc and make a livable decision (still daily it haha) but, plan atm is talk to autoalign and get them to make some urethane ones with increase of 5-8mm height, then heat shield it

Stock rubber mount got all saggy, dropped drivers side and closed up the previous clearance. Prob from the heat but solid might be the way to go

Cheers Josh. Wishfull thinking CSB would suffice haha Cert was with Pitstop grey lynns assistance, so will ask them for pointers when I pikcup car 2moro

Yup, certifier was like "excessive ..... but yea".

Can you expand a bit for Milford plastics? Nothing on google haha Will ring engineerig shops etc for a quote for alloy material (just needs a through bolt for mount)

My e30 m40 turbo just went for a cert check today, 6 things got picked up, and two of them were clearance issues caused by sotck engine mount (already sagged in 300km's of travel from new) Can anyone recommend a custom solid (metal) engine mount fabricator in Auckland? Also FYI on two other things: - 2 driveshaft hoop / loop is required, as centre hanger bearing doesn't count - Provide wheel alignment report to prove camber specs are within limits (even not that low) All ears on recommendation for engine mount, want to resolve ASAP Thanks!

Hi guys, just wondering if anyone has an idea what a good engine ground point is for my drivers side, that is above the exhaust manifold. I thought about using the timing/rocker cover bolts, but it didnt seem like a good idea because of the bolt's design. Any ideas? TIA

^ used to see that all the time in summer 2 years ago in central area, really friendly person; always waved or thumbs up when we went past each other.

Are you saving it then? (yay! if you are) Get a buddy to hold back the fuse box and use a heat sheild of some sort between welder and fuse box (that's how my panel beater did mine) *should* be enough slack to get it out of the way. Will take pics of my epic rust when i pick it up tomorrow means you did it correctly oh the joy. Guess sh*t like this makes driving it afterwards all the more sweeter

sounds normal to me... you might have forgotten how poor the brakes are after not driving it for a while give it another bleed, i do rears 1st jacked up, then fronts jacked up

Ha, seems like one of the previous owners were Chinese international students lol

visit Ray HellBM for relay and mirror for best bet, you got the dual button fog light switch already? Repco etc for fog light bulb and which bonnet seal? the two that goes down the side or main one up the top of bonnet?