dubman

visit Ray HellBM for relay and mirror for best bet, you got the dual button fog light switch already? Repco etc for fog light bulb and which bonnet seal? the two that goes down the side or main one up the top of bonnet?

pour a litre of water, or use a hose, down each side of black HVAC vents below the windscreen haha not being a d*ck, but might as well do it now lol, as the weather's giving it a pre-soak

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E39/Seda...tion_system/#11 could be one of those hoses perished or untightened connection. was this after you changed injectors? no clue on e39's but can you see any fuel leaking?

got slip on with 57.1 to 73 CB if thats suitable, otherwise stack some washers aye

give it a good clean inside afterwards just in case they missed some rust dust from cutting and grinding. good luck, f**king hate rust

Dude, call or PM him

what about flooring it when in gear already and shifting smoothly? will that be bad during bedding in period? I was told to put the clutch through as many heat cycles as possible, and just drive it smoothly. Its hard to do that sometimes.....

dunno if still available http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....mp;#entry471638

Pitstop Grey Lynn opens Saturday morning I think, give them a call

have a great Birthday Brent!

thanks Brent (once again), and also for the tip to go to Autoclutch

This is the correct facing for the cluth right? Pretty stupid Q but just wanted to double check

Personalised plate for sale "NDRCVR" (undercover) for $400 or nearest offer, please PM all inquiries. Thanks

Don't know how to quite answer the stack height question, but, when I did my subframe bushes, I compared the assembled part with the original removed bushes, and compared the height and dimensions etc and it ended up having the fatter part at the top. But yours raise it 12mm, so I don't know I just play "match the image" to make sure orientation is correct.

I thought the thicker part was on the top? you might have gotten it the wrong way around, not 100% sure tho

^ what he said

spotted you yesterday coming out of Royal Oak roundabout. Was in a Corolla haha, but yea, rust's a bitch. Just keep digging, be brave tho, not always good to see it rot away. I hope that's the only spot you find. Remove the front loom holder and metal plate, take a look in front of HVAC unit also. Good idea to clean out rust fragments that flow out around the elephant trunk hole/drain.

Yup, too true Brent. Simple engine swap turned into Rust War.

Does this grey pad have any other function other than sound deadening? Thinking of binning it

Take out all sound deadening (grey pads) on firewall, inspect for rust and leave them out.

Non-shortened standard shocks, with Eibach rears and H&R fronts. Rides and handles not that great. All wheels are 15x7 15p. Stance is subjective, so up to you how you want it to look, but your rear end is too low IMO. Slap on tyres and wheels 1st, then go from there haha

0 for the fronts and ~20 for the rear Was gonna get a set, but decided to bury the money elsewhere Is your signature pic your current height?

I think that's what you meant Andy Jamex superlows and shorten your shocks, cheapest option IMO. Are you going custom offset with those Varrstoens?

How long do you plan to keep the car? Once carpets goes back in, you won't realise its rusting again until it leaks. Don't rivet.....because those holes will be a nightmare once it starts rusting again. I just poked two fresh holes in my firewall because it rusted through, time for panel beater to cut and weld. +1 for what Glenn said. It's PITA and expensive to do it twice.

repair it, depending how broken it is