Matth5

I reckon most people are wary of buying another person's custom job, hard to judge the workmanship. You never know what corners were cut ect. Same reason modded cars are harder to see. People would rather mod it themselves. Only certain types of enthusiasts will see the appeal, so the market is pretty small. Only way I'd spend that much money on a custom car is if it's exactly as I'd want it (or very close, maybe). For example, I wont buy that one on carpoint.com.au, wrong colour, and I really dislike that leather colour too, I'd rather buy the black one in the OP and arrange conversion work myself so I can have it done my way.

Even if you could find an 850csi for sale, I think it would be very, very expensive. Probably more expensive than getting an 840i and doing the S62 conversion. Used S62 engines are roughly $10k on Ebay. There's at least one S85 (M5 V10) conversion out there too. That would also be pretty bad-ass. If I had the money, I might do it. The thought of it is pretty awesome, in my opinion.

Someone needs to swap in an E39 M5 engine and gearbox. Perfect one to use since it's got the crappiest engine and transmission they'd have.

What about engine tune? MHD is probably the best choice now. Do get that charge pipe in before you flash anything! Not fun when it explodes at an inconvenient time/place. Got the BMS/CPE one myself. For the intake, the BMS Dual cone filter seems to be the best choice for tuned N54s. They actually have dyno results to prove it: http://burgertuning.com/dcintake.html

They are getting blasted in the question section, took a screenshot to preserve this.,.. I'm tempted to post those screenshots to their Facebook page but don't want the attention, if anyone else would like to, feel free to use my screenshots. Edit: Done. Their page only lets you post 1 photo at a time and they review it before it shows up, so it'll probably never be seen...

"This car has only come available due to deceased estate. " Person selling it probably has no idea what it's worth and is just trying to get rid of it while making as much as possible. Make an offer if you want it...

Wow. And from Turners too, you'd think their staff would have better sense than that.

Those look way better than the 20s would and that style suits the E39 much better. The red detailing is an interesting touch.

I get your point but I think the the Eagle F1s are far from s**t "penny pinching" tyres. I'd have Altenzo's or something if I wanted to cheap out. If you absolutely have to have the very best, you've got more than just tyres to think of, and you'd be blowing all your income on your car. Anyway, time I bow out of this chat I think

Yes there are better tyres but I don't think the 335i needs that extra grip unless you're chasing laptimes or tuned up to 400hp. When I was tyre shopping I found the Eagle F1 AS2s for $300 each, those others were $500-$800 each for 19 inch wheels. Without using the DCT launch control I can't really break traction in these tyres on a dry road, so I don't see the point in spending more. And In the year I'd have them I've used launch control more times than I can count and filled the cabin with the smell of burning rubber, yet the rears still have heaps of tread. I destroyed Bridgestone RE050 runflats in 2 months with the same behavior (although they were not new at the start to be fair and alignment was bad, so I won't claim that to be a completely fair comparison) I had the RE002s on my 328i, they were great on that car, I'd rate those as a great tyre for cars around 200hp, the Eagle F1 for the 300hp mark, and for 400hp I may go for something grippier (or I'd just enjoy breaking traction more easily ) That said if you're not as fussed about saving money as me, then nothing wrong with the higher end tyres. I just think you need way more than 300hp to make proper use of such high end tyres.

Tire rack also rated the Goodyears highly http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=140 They're a great match for the 335i IMO, especially in the wet. Had them on mine for a year now.

Shop around and you can find some better deals, try Mag and Tyre. Had Eagle F1s at $300 each when I needed them last year (19s on my 335i), other places charged $500-$600 at the time.

Just buy online from the US, you'll find anything you want and it'll probably be cheaper even after customs tax. Shocks wont necessarily be worn, depends where the car's been driving I think. Country roads are probably much harsher on shocks than roads around town.

Oh man that must be a whole lot of fun. Will be interesting to see the dyno results

With the M3 diff, do you disable the stock E-diff? That and a few other assists can be coded off: http://www.onelapx1.com/blog/how-to-make-your-bmw-actually-fun

They don't necessarily s**t themselves in an instant. Lot of reports I've read the issues start off intermittently. I noticed my N55 (also an electric pump) slowly losing coolant, about a cup every month. A few months in I had the shop put it under pressure overnight and they found the pump was leaking, so they can fail that way too. Also from what I've read the car should let you drive until the engine gets too hot, it will reduce power, if it keeps getting hotter it will shut off (not like the E46 - they will let you destroy the engine).

Get a can of tyre slime and portable compressor from Repco or Supercheap, should be under $100 in total. Then you can get decent Bridgestone or Goodyear tyres for about $300 per corner if you shop around. The Bridgestone Runflats will run about $400 - 500 each and their performance is worse than regular tyres even if you put aside ride quality.

Haslips tyres in Panmure did mine. Did some pretty significant adjustments from what I had before. Alignment sheet attached. Disregard the ride height stuff.

I believe only the American spec BMWs have actual pressure sensors in the wheels so we don't need to worry about this. Ours have "flat tyre monitoring" that works by monitoring wheel speed (using the ABS/DSC speed sensors). Regardless, it should wash out, and it'll only be the rare occasion when you need it so I'd be ok with the risk even if I had sensors. The bottle says soapy water will wash it off. Maybe your wheel alignment place wasn't good... did they give you your current alignment specs? If so I can get mine for comparison.

Same happened to my runflats. An alignment should help. Also going to normal tyres, some owners have said the stiffer sidewalls on runflats can make this issue worse. I think tyre pressure can come in to it as well. A year ago I had an alignment, bought Goodyear Easy F1 Assymetric 2 (3 is now on the market) and I run slightly higher pressures. So far after plenty of abuse (used DCT launch control more times than I can count) there is no sign of inner wear. Tyres are nice and even. I highly recommend these tyres, they were only about $300 each from Mag And Tyre at the time. Most places charge over $500. Much more grip than the potenza runflats especially in the rain and much smoother ride. For safety get a can of tyre slime and a portable air compressor that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket from Repco or Supercheap. Was only about $80 for both when I bought mine.

FCPEuro are good if you're buying internationally, I found their shipping rates better than others when I've been browsing. They also have an excellent reputation. https://www.fcpeuro.com/

Only idiots put manual in description for DCT/SMG... makes browsing ads annoying because you have to click into them and read the ad, sometimes even look at photos, to figure out what it is. Not even 100 000km and in need of a clutch, DCTs don't wear anywhere near that fast! Even a manual shouldn't, someone's been doing lots of burnouts or can't work a clutch properly. He's also put wrong mileage in the ad. Ad says 90k but in description he says 103k.

Try to enjoy it stock before you go all out on the mods, 300hp is still a hell of a lot for a street car. You will easily fly past "loss of license" territory when overtaking on the open road and not paying attention to speed. I've set my iDrive speed warning to 120kph to stop me getting into too much trouble, makes the car chime and flash a warning on the dash when you hit that speed. Useful feature in this car Consider the N55 if turbo reliability is more important that pure power to you (it is to me), it's not as easily tunable. Also it can make better noise with a few mods

Best "suspension upgrade" is replacing the runflats with regular tyres. MSport is a great option to have, note it can come with an oil cooler too which probably helps if you like to thrash it (the main reason you'd get a 335i really). Charge pipes explode soon after an engine tune, so replace that before you do anything. Mine lasted only a few weeks weeks after a Performance Power Kit flash. Have it inspected for turbo oil leaks and wastegate rattle, otherwise spare about $4k for a turbo replacement.

You're on the shore so try Bellars Motor Works or Burger Motor Works, even if just to ask advice. Or BM Workshop Grey Lynn. E90s are supposed to have the battery 'registered' to the car, not all places will do that.