Olaf

many thanks for the replies, guys! John: yep, *listening* in the car is sh*t, I've always spent my bucks on home stereo and driven cheap (old, used) cars. I've no intent on laying down loadsamoney on a car audiophile experience, just getting better than what's there. In fact, unless I can get tight tunefull bass that's compact, the sub is 'optional'. CD better, I only want iPhone connection for convenience. Nathan: solder and heatshrink sounds like me, I'm a former comms tech and appreciate a good connection. I wondered about sill flashing tape, basically the same stuff? The Vifas should be good VFM, though the Morels that Neal mentions are prolly next step up, yeah? I don't have a garage, so the downtime building pods won't really fly for me, unless I could build it in a day or so. I appreciate what it would do to firm up the sound... would like to see as many pictures as you have of the build so I can figure out if its acheivable. Neal: Re the tweeters, the Wagon has just the basic system, so tweeter in the triangle 'sail' mount above the door by the mirror, and (I think) 6.5" mid bass. If I was to 'mix and match', I guess I'd be building my own x-over?? Re the Technic harness, I'd like to know more about this. If my amp is to go under the comms deck in the boot, I'm picking I'll be running a lot of cable anyway. Having option of a Pi sounds good, will slowly evolve this thinking. The JL Audio amps are class D; and I think they have HL inputs too. Will need to check out if the CD43 has line outs anywhere. Got any links for Morel drivers suitable for this project? cheers

Noise? The cross-drilled and skotted PowerStop rotors on my Volvo are noisy AF. In comparison, the StopTech slotted rotors on my e46 are un-noticable (noise wise), but effective. Here's what you need to know about bedding in your brakes. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures/stock-brake-system-bed-in I found that getting out early on the motorway before anyone's around, helps... you don't want to be interrupted in your heat cycles, or get rear-ended on heavy stopping... or have to come to a full stop when the brakes are hot from cycling through the heavy stops (imprinting). Tomorrow morning (25/12) should be good, mind you don't collect Santa though.

okay, so I'm doing 70-80kms each day (round trip) for my commute; spending so much time in the car, I'm thinking some improved audio would make my daily grind better. I'll lay out some context and objectives, before we get into objectives. 1. Audio. I listen to music. I used to be an audiophile. I'm more a 'flat earther' - the whole Linn/Naim thing from the 70's/80's that focuses on PRaT (Pace, Rythmn, and Timing)... and I continue to decry this BS notion of "soundstage" on the basis its not reall experienced in the studio (it's manufactured), rarely encountered live (sound reinforcement, baby), and is usually delivered by HiFi systems that are rythmically challenged (e.g. the Bass Player is about to fall asleep, he's so far out of time with the drummer you're thinking he's taken a mandrax, whilst the rythmn guitarist is on speed)... yes I run a Naim Audio system at home, still spin my records on a Linn LP12, and favour headphones by AKG and Beyer Dynamic. Conclusion? Don't give me typical Japanese Audio with cut-glass highs and slow plodding over-blown one-note bass. I want TIMING, TIMING, TIMING, I want fast, tuneful bass, I wasnt it musical, baby. I honestly think most ICE enthusiasts have never heard truly good hifi, and rarely listen to live music. I am not looking for a disco in my car! I like the approach Neal has taken to his M3; I just don't have the committment to go that far! I'm not sure I'm going to need electronic x-overs and stuff. 2. The car. The factory head unit stays. This is a constraint. I realise - and recognise Source First (Garbage in, Garbage out) - that this is a constraint. I also like the integration - auto volume etc - and one day I may even get a sports steering wheel with integrated controls! My car lives on the street - it must be stealth. I will not sacrifice trunk space and utility for a sub box. Any sub must be small, tight, tuneful - either mounted in the side panel, or abover the space saver spare in the trunk floor. I realise with a small box it probably constrains me to a small driver; this is a compromise I can live with. My sub must not be lagging behind the music; it's about sound reinforcement, not SPL sound-offs. I'd like to have iPhone integration (lightning or bluetooth); I can sacrifice the CD changer for this. Oh, and no visible or irreversible hacks to the interior; this should be removable. I listen to FM and CD's. Being able to play from my phone and or spotify would be good. It must be removable/reversible. It may cost a bit for this kit, so it should be able to go with me. I doubt that a flash audio system adds $$ to the value of your car, just helps it sell to the right buyer. 3. The work: I'm past massive fabrication work. I don't mind the idea of building a custom-fit sub box, but speaker pods and all that malarky, no thanks. I'm impressed by what others do, I'm sticking to 'simple'. Some dynamat in key places to quiet things down/stiffen things up: yes, by all means! 4. What am I thinking? new 2-way component speakers in the front, an amp, and a sub. I read this from Audio-file In Car, UK and thought "I know the Audio File from my time in UK, they did Naim and real british HiFi... this is probably a good approach to music in the car" (as opposed to screechy in-car entertainment)... I don't know which iPhone integration box to use. So as a base kit list (doesn't seem cheap - can I do similar and still avoid awful screechy out of time ICE for less money: - Front speakers: Focal 165 VRS (shallow mount component speakers) - Amp: JL Audio XD500/3 - Sub: some kind of small sub in a custom enclosure. (did I say must be fast, tuneful, no one-note bass) - other: iPhone integration unit. - other: ability to add a streaming source later - perhaps phone controlled? - other: what if I want to amp-up the other speakers later? And possibly improve the speakers in the rear doors and the load area? As you can see, the kit above ain't cheap. Perhaps there's a shallow-mount 6.5" component speaker solution from Focal or Boston Acoustics that will much of this for half the price? The amp looks like a great solution; is there something less expensive that's nearly as good? I'm just starting out on this, it'll take me a while to suss out. Cabling - I'd rather do it once... I guess the amp will sit beneath the comms deck in the boot, forward of the spare wheel well, behind the rear seat, like this (with thanks to Neil Mukerji). Mine is basically empty, being a Japan-spec '02 325i Touring. I'm thinking there'll be plenty of new cabling to be done, and a good strong power feed and earth for a new amp? As you can see, I've a lot to consider, and a bit to catch up on. I want to keep it simple, and am aware I'm compromising a bit wit hthe constraints I've chosen. The journey begins.

PS - had plenty more torque released from this setup. The reason I replaced a full system was that there had been poor quality repairs made by previous owners, using generic parts.

sorry about that, I had a senior moment. Magnaflow. I updated the post above and added a link. The magnaflow muffler was part of a full cat-back exhaust kit sourced from Eurosport accessories in LA. I called them up, rocked in a couple of days later, checked the box in my luggage at United Airlines, and took it back to Mexico with me. Fitted it myself, had the local exhaust shop do the final tube fitting (needed expanding), and 'presto'. It sounded a bit deeper than stock, not at all drone-y, flowed much better, and had the right bark up top. Eurosport put together a great kit. But hey, poxy VAG 4 cyl product. You'll be needing something for yout six. Video? I should be so lucky. It was the mid-90's, one needed a VHS-C or 8mm Analogue video camera back then, to record video! The internet was in its infancy, I connected using dial-up 14k4 modem with custom initialisation scripts, and Compuserve was my ISP. YouTube hadn't even been dreamt of. We had it tough #; )

he had a good innings. hopefully he didn't pass as a result of choking on food!

I washed it. Spent as much time on the wheels as I did on the rest of the car. Still loving that AutoGlym wheel brush, Barry!

I like that. Sounds like (no pun intended) you should just hunt out a supersprint and be done with it! Wonder what that'd sound like on the end of my M54B25... would it be a bit ricer? I had good experiences years ago on my old VW A2 GTi 16v with a muffler (part of a cat-back system I sourced) from Dynaflow Magnaflow. Back then they were more 'V8 specialists', and it was superb on my 2.25" system. Not sure if the Dynaflow offerings are well thought of in BMW-landia. So many choices.

I did wash it today, though.

already been through and replaced the radiator, all cooolant hoses (including turbo and heater), and the heater rad as well. Hint: avoid URO hoses, they are shite and don't last. I didn't do the coolant flush after all. Next weekend I guess. What's the last RWD Volvo? Uncertain, Ron, though the V90 or S90 are RWD and come with large hairdryers on the side.... they were previously 940/960. You want the 940 as it's the Turbo. The 960 *may* have been V6, although that may have discontinued with the 7xx series, I forget. The 9xx is an update of the earlier 7xx (such as 740/760). When they went to S90 (Saloon) and V90 (Wagon) they were basically facelifts. You can get a bunch of power from the RWD turbo wagons, but not as much as you (easily) can from the 'white motor' 5Cyl turbo units in the 850/V70 series right through to last decade. Not sure if you can really get the RWD Volvos handling as you'd expect, so perhaps the FWD compromise with the superior power train and safety is a better choice. Fancy an 855-T5 then? Seriously though, you can get good high-pressure turbo Volvos at around 9 years old for play money... you source your parts from FCP (and oh, there will be many of them!), there's little expertise for them in Niu Zild so you need to rely on yourself (and it helps the low entry price), and you enjoy a safe, comfortable and very quick sleeper for not much money. What's not to like? Just avoid the S80, it's "a bit sh*t".

What are you running on your e30/M52 currently? Perhaps worth starting with a used OEM unit from one of our forum sponsors such as Brent at BM World, or Ray at Hell BM. They may have something aftermarket that'll suit too...

how cool is that? you're laughing, really. Do post your progress pics, you're bound to pick up encouragement here, particularly if your mojo is flagging and you're being tempted away from the garage by another ham sandwich!

yep, I'm still loving mine and must have over 10,000 kms on them now which is a 'good thing' IME #; )

they look awesome, Barry! They were well worth the wait. give that car a polish, will ya?

I like em... they look like a "more swish" Style 194. Before running the 235/265 combo, check that the e90 M3 runs same rims as your coupe - offsets and rim widths may be different (as in e46). You going RE003's again, John? Or "something else"? They're doing the "buy one, get one half price" deal on Potenzas at Bridgestone NZ at the moment.

what about the ECU, Murray?

Last week I replaced that bulging cooling system hose. Yesterday, I replaced the spark plugs (genuine Volvo), and cleaned the leads. Found a vacuum hose disconnected. Over xmas I'll replace all the vacuum hoses. Today I may do a cooling system flush, and add new antifreeze and deionised water. The coolant is 2 years old.

you only heard it idling and gentle revving up to 1500rpm! If it's "sound like a tractor ™" or "sound like an RB30 with fart cannon", you can probably acheive that sophisticated sound with the following: a grinder drill mig welder Please read the following contraindications before removing the innards of your exhaust: Contraindications may include: Headaches Nausea May be tiresome on a trip through resonanse droning May attract the attention of the constabulary May cause you problems with WoFs May cause you to fall out with your neighbours You may experience halucinations (such as you are being followed by a Nissan Skyline)

in addition, there's something very special about the handling balance of the M43-powered e46. Yes, it's missing 2 cylinders... but the way it tips in to corners is sublime.

CUBs. Cashed Up Bogans.

yeah holy crap, I looked into buying a 3 year old SV6 and they're just not cheap at all!

looking foward to seeing that! should look tres bon.

DISA done. Took me a little longer than expected, I dropped one of the torx bolts on removal, and the other on install.... necessitated a visit under the car to remove and refit the plastic under-tray. Also took a while to while to pick out the old o-ring seal where the valve assembly meets the intake manifold. The i6 Automotive kit seemed pretty good, I figured the spring washer was for the new bolt at the bell-crank end. A 15 min road test had me thinking its going a little better. My 35km commute to work on Monday should have me better informed. Think I'll do some injector cleaner before I change the oil. Time to pop in and see the lads at Page European and pick up some of that Wurth stuff they use. Engine flush. cheers

they're not destined to be owners of old BMWs (or more recent Porsches), then! They'll be the types who cheap-out on maintenance, and call the cars over-rated and disappointing. OTOH, mine drives like a new one at 14 years old. You pays yer money, and takes yer choice. I could have bought a 7 or 8 year old Toyota Caldina for the same money. Would have cost me less to own, but would I enjoy it?

Jebus! It's nearly USD1000 on FCP Euro! 18121178263? The ANSA aftermarket comes to about USD 450 for the two sections that appear to make up the genuine 18121178263. Perhaps europe? Nothing listed on Eurocarparts. GSF similarly, nothing listed (though they're advertising 32% off everything this weekend). Hmmm... https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-182583-e24-635csi-e28-535iis-euro-supersprint-performance-exhaust-system-center-resonator-rear-muffler/ Oz-made stainless cat-back system AUD900 (sounding more affordable) http://www.motorsportsdownunder.com/catalog/i13.html Or schmeidmann have many options... http://www.schmiedmann.com/5_series/E28/Equipment_-_accesories/tuning/page5.htm#1692 at the EUR 400-500 mark HTH