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Everything posted by Cammsport
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Hi all, I'm after anyone who is familiar with the much loved and reliable N47. A dozen Panhead Superchargers to whoever leads me onto the path that gets this thing going. I've just replaced the timing gear on a 2nd hand engine. Followed the procedure in accordance with NewTis. Flywheel pinned and cam looking tool fits beautifully flush on the valve cover deck. Turn the engine over by hand, without plugs or injectors and it's silky smooth. Compression test it and I get 75, 75, 75 and 140psi. Leak down test with 30psi shows 25% and any losses are from the rings (quite good I thought for a motor that has been laid up and cold). What have I done wrong? I'd expect at least 240psi. Throw any suggestions at me and I'll field them to the best of my ability. Thank you in advance!
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N57 Replace rocker cover gasket (seized injectors)
Cammsport replied to GreyGhost's topic in Maintenance
Unfortunately it is necessary, and a pain in the a**. Likely from leaking injector seals. The best way is to do multiple soaks of some form of penetrant (not too much) and hope some hot/cold cycles free them up. If no success, you'll have to have a crack with a slide hammer hammer. See below. DO NOT DAMAGE THE INJECTOR! Very expensive.- 1 reply
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Hi all, bit of a thread jacking going on here 😅 much appreciated if you could remove posts/comments from the tiguan one, onwards ❤️❤️❤️
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50% off 5w-40 @ Repco https://www.repco.co.nz/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/castrol-edge-5w-40-a3-b4-engine-oil-5l-3421235/p/A1331904
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Does anyone have a diesel compression tester I could borrow? I have the glow plug fitting, ideally just need the gauge and hose. Thanks I advance!
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The Simply BMW NZ Queenstown Facebook group has a dozen members that meet monthly. We meet in either Cromwell or Qtown (or anywhere in-between)
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Was just about to post this in here! Good price I reckon. Hopefully someone from bimmersport buys it.
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Yip, this is the fully spec'd Exceed version.
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So I finally settled on a.... 4M41. What's that? The 3.2 TD from a Gen 4 2010 Pajero. Absolutely love it. Definitely not as smooth or refined as an E70. Aaand the 30d has more torque and Hp for less fuel. But the Pajero doesn't leak and parts are quickly acquired through Amayama, which has a warehouse in Christchurch. I fell like I can beat on the Pajero abit more too. 7 seats, TV for the middle row, auto headlights/wipers & rear view, leather heated electric seats, headlight washers, PDC, cruise control. Oh, it also has a spare wheel! 🤯
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Feel free to flick me a message. Pristine body and interior.
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Hi all, has anyone had the recall information sent to them yet? Seems as though it could be on the way. https://blog.fcpeuro.com/bmw-22v-119-recall-n52-engine-fire-hazard
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I shortened the pull-rod from the pedal to the booster and admittedly the brakes are night and day better. Less travel to engage the brakes. Pedal distance can't be adjusted due to the position of the brake light micro switch (unless you modified the steel assembly). After a closer inspection, the clamp onto the shaft on the steering rack was loose! This is hopefully the play they mentioned. I'm bloody glad he found it, although it wouldn't have come apart due to the recess on the shaft for the bolt to go through. New 8.8 bolt and STEEL self-locking nut installed. The nylon must not have appreciated the heat from the manifold. My cert plate is under the trunk carpet as I didn't want it in an obvious location like engine bay or door jam.
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@promo, I can't message you for some reason. It says you can't receive messages.
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I knew the wiper blades were done, but I thought I'd fly through. Game plan is to lengthen the adjustment rod for the brake booster and then tighten the adjustment nut on the bottom of the Z3 rack. I don't want to tighten the nut alot as I don't think there is any issue at all. No play in UJs. Rack ends are new and tight. I'm also judging the inspector for his handwriting and wording 😅
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The anarchist in me likes to find broken stuff. Glad it "softly" died, as opposed to a catastrophic chain failure. Wouldn't have been far off. However, the rod bearings and Crank appear to be in great shape. I'll chalk that up to the solid service history and regular oil changes.
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Get them to Central Otago and I'll buy them 😅 awesome seats. Good luck with the sale.
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A sad sight to see... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3405730356412146/?mibextid=dXMIcH
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https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/castrol-castrol-edge-engine-oil---5w-30-a3-b4-5-litre/299206.html 50% off castrol edge 5w30 at SCA
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Chocolate biscuit to you Sir (and everyone else that mentioned compression). Cylinders 4 and 3 are ~300psi. Cylinder #2 is 270psi and #1 is 50psi! Acetone soak with ATF didn't help at all. Oddly enough with each cylinder at TDC, there's very minimal leaks that I could hear. I'm determined to get this going before my 1 year anniversary of ownership. Considered a donor engine but I think I'll do it properly and give this engine a birthday. New timing chains, sprockets and tensioners. Water pump and thermostat. Piston rings (bores look fine, so I don't thing I need to do anything too drastic there). Head gasket and head bolts. Trans filter. Let me know if there's anything else I should tackle. Won't know the condition of the bearings until I have it out. # P/N Description Amount 1 11257807289 Piston ring kit (3 rings) 4 3 11137807302 sump gasket 1 4 11147797491 timing case gasket 1 5 11288574958 accesory drive belt 1 6 11517807311 water pump 1 7 11517805190 water pump gasket 1 8 11517805192 thermostat 1 9 11517806975 thermostat gasket 1 10 11427802114 oil filter housing gasket 1 11 TCK133C (FAI) FAI AutoParts TCK133C Timing Chain Kit 1 12 11127807017 valve cover gasket 1 13 11317797516 camshaft sprocket bolts 3 14 13527800395 hp fuel pump sprocket bolt 1 15 11417807350 oil pump sprocket bolt 1 16 11128506130 Head gasket 1 18 24152333907 Trans filter kit 1 19 17227581147 trans cooler o rings 2 20 11128513128 cylinder head bolt set 1
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My jerk was 1st to 2nd, flat shift type. A new filter and fluids didn't make it any better. I just used the snow flake mode to hold it out of 1st gear.
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Threw the borescope down the injector holes to see what kind of engine I had. All in all, not too bad. Cross hatchings still present and no scoring that I could see. But a heck of a lot of carbon build up on the pistons. See below. Vertical lines on #4 are from fuel seeping down the cylinders when injectors were removed. And from a top down view, there's an obvious fault on #1 cylinder. The piston is offset to one side which I assume is from the rings. A lot different to #3 if you were to compare. A view of the top end shows how bad the carbon build up is. And a video of #3 so you can see the general condition. IV001136.AVI At this point I think I'm wasting my time soaking the cylinders, hoping the rings will free up. I think the engine needs to come out, pistons removed, carbon removed and rings replaced. Will give me the opportunity to replace the timing gear too for piece of mind. If anyone has any tips or pointers, fire away! If the head is carefully removed (all head bolts loosened incrementally), do i still need to have the head skimmed? Was hoping to avoid the extra cost.
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Mustered up some motivation to get back to the lemon. Found some more lemony goodness. Loom, glow plugs, turbo, radiator, intercooler and belly pans removed. Turbo found to have some lateral play on the shaft, so that'll be getting rebuilt/replaced (anyone have any experience with the DIY rebuild kits?). Looks like I caught it early enough and there's no shrapnel anywhere. 20230112_134521.mp4 When removing the belly tray, I found the little brass olive that goes in the fuel lines to the injector. Can't find the 2nd one. Royaly p*sses me off that the garage has had such sloppy workmanship. None of the fuel lines blanked. Injector left uncovered. Would be keen to send a sulky email as opposed to bad feedback on Google, but I doubt it'd achieve much. Plan from here is to remove the intake manifold and use my new leakdown tester to pinpoint where the air is escaping from. I'll also loan the borescope from work to see if there's any damage to cylinder bores before going any further.
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Awesome video, I should've googled it earlier.