Vass

Oops

She back! Front seats look standard alcantara though with a rip in the usual place. https://www.trademe.co.nz/4336896479

Yeah hoping to make a start on that possibly next week already. Should be able to occupy a mate's hoist for a few weeks, drop the subframe, weld it all up and throw all new stuff on. Will be racing to get it all done during October - parents are coming over for a visit from Europe in November so would be great to have the car ready in time to take them on a few road trips. Need to still do some product research and find the best place to source a bunch of supplies - weld through primer, seam sealer, paint, underseal spray etc...

Rear subframe and trailing arms mostly sorted, bushes & bearings all pressed in. Solid aluminium subframe mounts from CMP Auto Engineering. Lemförder front diff bushes & Meyle HD rear diff bush. CMP trailing arm spherical ball joints. Lemförder ball joint top & bottoms. F.A.G. wheel bearings.

Weird one that, looked up the kit for the fronts you mentioned on Schmiedmann, says it's ATE in the description but has NK listed as the brand. Not sure what that's about. Almost as if it's saying it's meant for ATE calipers, not that the kit itself is ATE? I used Dupli-Color Sating Black Caliper Paint, on sale from Supercheap. Don't rush into it though, I did have a bit of a mishap with it. About 2 days after paint when putting the seals in, I sprayed the inside of one caliper with brake cleaner that ran out of the bleed nipple opening and dissolved some of the paint on the backside of the caliper... Only a tiny spot so didn't bother me enough to repaint but found it a bit concerning that brake caliper paint wouldn't stand up to brake cleaner. Might be due to the paint not being fully cured yet, the temperatures were in the low 10's overnight around that time so could just be that. I was careful with the rest of them, only spraying cleaner on a rag and cleaning out the insides that way so only the one that got a blemish, but I'll hopefully be able to say more on the paint's longevity in a month's time or so. I'll be sure to report back after the first wash.

Nah couldn't justify coughing up that much for a pile of rubber either. At the time I couldn't find ATE ones anywhere at all so that's one thing I cheaper out on. Got 2 sets each of Topran and A.B.S. brand for around $5 USD each from either RockAuto or Spareto. That would have been well over a year ago now, haven't checked what the prices and availability are at the moment. Topran ones looked dogshit with the outer seal not even having a solid metal backing at the base of it. The A.B.S. ones felt alright so threw those on. Will see how they hold up. Not ideal not being OE but will monitor them and reseal with some better quality parts if they end up causing trouble.

Sorry to keep hijacking your thread, but bloody hell what is going on!? Another one, and this time with a 3L already in it... but with a Getrag behind it by the sounds of it. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/4324282721?utm_source=tmm-savedsearch&utm_medium=email&bof=bpQ8jCuP

Haven't got around to getting one yet. I did get one of those vacuum bleeders but that turned out to be dogshit. Bled the clutch and brakes the old fashion two person way last time around. A set of these is what I got. Look pretty promising, will hopefully live up to it too.

Got onto the 330i brake refurb. All disassembled, I had them vapour blasted by a fellow bimmerhead I'd met, saved a good number of hours on the wire wheel. Gave them an additional scrub and 3 coats of satin black caliper paint. Then threw on new seals, guide pins, rattle clips, OE rubber hoses and a set of speed bleeder valves, as well as Akebono pads (sorry @Olaf, I'll be careful). All tidied up and set aside. Also scrubbed down and major rust off the subframe and control arms, gave it a few coats of rust converter primer and the same satin black paint. Will get onto pressing in the new bushes and bearings next. Front hubs are also now disassembled and awaiting a tidy up.

Well done dude, that's a mighty good effort, nice and quick turnaround. Get a lot of hate these engines but should he a good runner for someone for a good while now that the major weak points got addressed.

Must be something in the air... A factory manual 325ti? Get out of here. NZ new too. That front lip looks pretty sus tho. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/compact/listing/4321158011?bof=6OvHNJsC

The "gets X km to a tank" crowd makes my blood boil. Or, its increasingly popular variant - "rear". Other notable pet peeves are "sort after" and "Manuel" [sic]. Must be a Mexican import. Scary amount of people out there that should have their high school certificates revoked.

Most cost effective way to source a full engine setup I've found is to keep tracking Turners and Manheim damaged car auctions for a suitable one to pop up locally. That way you can be sure you get absolutely everything you need to get it running and neglected is fine since you're rebuilding everything anyway. Take what you need, part out the rest and you might end up with a free engine and a slight profit on top. Some extra hassle for sure but if you're not in an awful hurry then might be worth it. That's how I went about it anyway. Here's a local M54B30 for you. Might not be an ideal candidate with being AWD (I think?) but keep looking and something will pop up. https://manheim.co.nz/damaged-vehicles/000000000006743627/2005-bmw-x3-touring?referringPage=SearchResults

Is that so? Or just not as well documented due to lower popularity and lack of 3L+ engines from factory?

Yeah my bad, keep getting them mixed up. Somehow doesn't look right with the sedan front end, the front and rear just don't match. Actually prefer the bug eyes to go with the shorter rear. Yeah hard to price it I imagine. A lot of work has gone in no doubt but $15k seems a bit optimistic given that you can pick up a manual coupe for roughly the same money. Happened to sit at the lights next to a near identical white 316ti Msport today. Did look pretty sharp, apart from the sagging front bumper. Actually tempted to buy it if I ever see it come up for sale 😁

Here's one for inspiration, built by HellBM some years ago if I'm not mistaken. Looks all sorts of wrong though.. https://www.trademe.co.nz/4316428545 They had a series of videos on this build on youtube as well. Can dig it up if that'd be of any help.

f**k all new cars in general. Soulless crapbuckets.

HPR 5 5w-40 5L $48.49 @ SCA https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/penrite-penrite-hpr-5-engine-oil---5w-40-5-litre/14911.html?cgid=SCN01070403

Wait... what!? 😯

Come to think of it, I don't even know. Forget I asked.

Yeah haven't been too impressed with FCP of late but went with them for a few items that other places didn't have. Their use of UPS is what pisses me off the most. Website is a pain to use, all tracking updates stop the moment the package arrives in NZ and no way to leave delivery instructions. The last package was plunked right in the middle of the front porch on a rainy day and was soaked through by the time we got to it. A Spareto package was delivered same day and left in the dry at the back door as per delivery instructions. Messaged FCP and said I'm not using them until there's no shipping options other than UPS. They replied saying the feedback came at a good time as they're currently reviewing their exclusive shipping provider contract so... here's hoping. That alternator duct I mentioned getting destroyed a few posts back I'd gotten from FCP at the beginning of the year for $30 USD. With this latest order I thought screw it, I'll throw in a new one of them, only to discover the price had jumped to $72... Gross.

Uff looks a real tidy one that, anything majorly wrong with it that you're parting it out or just git it cheap enough? You doing much in terms of engine refurb, gaskets-seals-chain guides or just dropping it in? Keeping the old style coils or switching to the updated valve cover?

Hahah haven't yet but have had a review on another item deleted before 😄 Dodgy buggers.

Back from overseas, dug straight into sorting a few issues before even waking the car up from its 3 month slumber. When replacing the diff, I noticed some oil dripping out from the bottom of the CCV valve, running down the return tube and onto the oil pan. Was making enough of a mess to be worth addressing. Hard to tell what the main failure point was as 2 of the 3 hose connections were covered in oil as well as it looking like the diaphragm housing had split at the seams and oil was weeping out from there as well. Due to it being the highest up saturated area, I suspect its the latter and the oil just ran down from there, although the bottom return hose also seemed to wobble around excessively so might have been multiple failure points. Not awfully happy about it, being a brand new part that failed after barely 2,000km but it is what it is. Had read a bit of negative feedback on that particular part from FCP Euro and it being a bit sketchy how they don't specify who their "OE SUPPLIER" is but figured I trusted them enough to give it a go. Guess the internets were right on that front. Went with a little "hack" I'd read about on E46 Fanatics - buy a genuine BMW Cold Climate Version of the CCV. The cold climate valve is just a regular one in a foam jacket around it, you can just remove it and end up with a genuine CCV with two additional genuine hoses for around half the price of just a regular valve alone. Not sure how the pricing makes sense on that but it has held up for a number of years now so a good tip for anyone looking to do a CCV refurb. Figured it wouldn't hurt keeping the jacket on for the occasional morning frost we still get around here, summers don't get that awfully hot here either so figured there's no real downsides to some extra insulation. A much tighter squeeze installing it with the added padding, definitely not a job I'd want to do with the intake still on the car. Will monitor how this one holds up, I do have a bit more faith in it being a genuine BMW part. Hopefully it was just a faulty batch and not an underlying issue with the engine producing excessive pressure or something like that. Another bit that annoyed my was the way the lower intake boot sat. No matter how I tried to align it, the smaller offshoot going to the ICV just didn't want to sit right and looked like it was caving in on itself. Decided to replace the Febi hose I had with another genuine part. The quality of the rubber feels better even just looking at it and it does seem to sit straighter. For now anyway. Did a slight mod changing the temperature buffer on the cluster to make it more accurate and informative of potential overheating situations. Basically, with default programming, the temperature arrow pointing straight up indicates quite a wide range of temperature and doesn't give you much warning of the temps going up before it being too late. With very simple coding you can change it to what it is below. Lastly, replaced the front indicators, both the headlight side markers and the fender ones. Of the front ones, one side was cracked, the other kept getting condensation buildup inside and both the fender ones were foggy and faded. TYC brand ones looked to have good reviews and were cheap enough from Spareto so I ended up getting sets of both clears and ambers. Put the latter ones on for now to switch it up a bit, quite like how they break up the monotony up front. Will see which one I end up sticking with long term and will sell on the other set. Boxes of new parts keep stacking up in the garage. New additions are an AC compressor, condenser, drier, expansion valve and a full set of O-rings, all ready to get the AC back up and running in time for summer.

Yeah, the exhaust will have to come off when removing the gearbox, the old gasket will likely be perished and the old nuts will be well rusted. With luck you'll manage to get the nuts off without the studs breaking off. Use plenty of penetrating fluid beforehand.