Vass

Few more things to add to the list, before I forget. Really keen to switch the cluster displays from the silly km/L to L/100km that I'm more used to. Have already got the physical backing sheet/plate, will need to figure out how to code the digital display to reflect the same, whether I need to dig around the DME or the cluster itself to get there and if it's even possible. Got a tired 12-year old laptop last weekend and finally went through the trouble of setting up all the BMW standard tools on it, the INPAs & NCS Experts of the world, will start acquainting myself with the ins and outs of it in the coming weeks. Possible LSD conversion - will first throw in the 2.93 diff I got with the manual conversion to see whether it's as sluggish as some reports suggest. Further down the line might give this RacingDiffs conversion a go on the 3.38 auto diff in case if I ever feel brave enough to take on some track days. Reviews look pretty good and for the money seems pretty good value. I suspect it's fine with the speed sensors being in the wheel hubs but just to make sure - going from an auto box with a 3.38 to a manual with a 2.93, I won't need to muck about with recalibrating the speedo, will I? Might just play around and get it to show the actual, non-exaggerated speed.

Damn, I wish you weren't so on the fence on this still. Tell us how you really feel Point taken, will look into it further. A bit ways down the line this still. Yeah I reckon regular OE hoses will feel much better than 20-year old rubber as well, braided lines might only make a very marginal difference for what I'm doing. Cheers

Damn. Unless you're in a real hurry, I'd honestly just hold out. Don't see any manuals go for less than $12-15k lately. I'd be all over it if I didn't have my hands full with the current shitbucket.

$4000 is almost an insult. Good luck with the sale, looks good value for $10k.

Another few points I forgot about earlier. This is basically turning into a to-do list of sorts: Braided brake lines - will be refurbing the calipers so might as well throw on new brake lines as well. Can get stock ATE rubber hoses for $75 or go with SS braided lines for around $200. Kinda leaning towards the OE rubber ones as I don't see this car as a track day regular and reading up about steel lines being prone to breaking off at connection points. Again, would depend on the degree of improvement in brake pedal feel which I can't really chime in on. Thoughts? ARP head studs - still fretting a bit over re-torqueing the head so low-key considering a stud conversion, which I've read distributes the load on the threads in the block more evenly and reduces the risk of them pulling. Not cheap but cheaper / less hassle than pulling the engine back apart and getting helicoils / timeserts in case a thread does pull. Have checked the ARP website but it doesn't have an M54-specific head stud set listed. Have seen other vendors offer them though. Unsure whether it's not listed due to being out of stock or if they've never offered it. Have emailed them with a query. Have read some reports of people using M52 sets on M54's and the studs pulling due to a shallower thread depth so not keen to go down that route. Touring Msport springs - struggling to find the right springs for my model. As far as I know, the US market never got a Touring in ZHP / Msport variant so having no luck with recommendations on FCP. Have also tried looking up RealOEM for the correct part numbers but it's blanking out on springs for some reason... The topic was touched upon elsewhere I believe but are Touring springs actually different from Sedan/Coupe ones? You'd assume so but FCP, RockAuto, Schmiedmann etc don't seem to make any distinction, at least not a very clear one, so I'm well confused as to what to get.

Thanks for the replies guys! Some good points there. Dropping the box is not really a job I'd want to undertake again in the near future. I've already ordered all the detents and shifter pins anyway (minus those bloody covers) so would rather address all that in one go and be done with it. The engine came spec'd with an LF-30 though, and that's definitely in better nick than the LF-20 I have. Plus if it is a stronger unit, I'd go with that instead. One of the pressure hoses is actually identical between the two so I'd be able to reuse that and would just need to get the other one. I think money wise getting a new hose for the LF-30 or getting a new LF-20 to match the hoses would cost roughly the same so I'd rather make sure the unit I'm going with is the better one of the two. I've read reports of the LF-30 running higher pressure and the steering being a bit easier. Prior to dismantling I did notice the steering being a bit heavy, as well as a mate of mine commenting the same after borrowing the car for a while, so the LF-30 would assumedly make that better. Although it may have been down to the LF-20 being on its way out anyway. Interesting. A point to consider. Do the post-cats really not influence anything else beyond emissions? I'm blessed by the absence of a SAP, luckily. Cheapest I found just now is around $500 before shipping from Spareto for all four. Not sure I'd call it cheap but yeah, fair point, worth doing now as it's a bastard to get to later on. Might look into omitting the post-cats though as alluded above. Add on another $300 for crank sensor, two cam sensors and ignition knock sensors. Actually not as bad as I'd feared. Too far down the rabbit hole to start skimping now. Fair point on the lack of bite, will take that on board. The clean freak in me is still a bit stubborn and refuses to be swayed by that though. How big a difference is it actually? Like is it something you just get used to over time and learn to press the pedal harder, or did you genuinely feel unsafe in certain situations / have had a few close calls? Definitely don't want to be compromising safety but if it's 10-20% difference I could probably live with that. Don't see myself pushing the limits too hard anyway. Just read up some reviews on the HPS. Quite a few people reporting terrible noise and squealing, not even too long after installing. Plus they look to be twice the price. Will do a bit more digging. Fair point. All those alternatives would seemingly work out to less than $300 though so worth a consideration. Again it's a give and take as to what degree would they harshen up the steering feedback...

Probably showing my age but I've never even heard or seen one of these before. What an absolute ugly duckling! Can't be many/any of these on NZ roads ey? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/3689239009?tm=email&et=45&mt=53E77B08-ED47-4D1F-BC56-B57F12F5D728&bof=w48vhFAH

Ohh, a few more I forgot: Brake pads - thinking of giving these Akebono ceramic pads a go (can actually get them cheaper from RockAuto). Ceramics can, admittedly, wear out the rotors quicker and don't grip as well in daily use, I've been discouraged from ceramics for a daily driver but none of the reviews flag those as issues and from what I've read I'm left pretty impressed, especially the low brake dust characteristic. Anyone have experience with these in particular or any other recommendations for pads? Steering coupling - have a few options here: Stock replacement - again, all the usual suspects only stock LHD ones, am yet to properly look into where to get one locally and for how much. Ireland Engineering urethane coupler - stiffer than stock but not sure if it's a great option still being so close to the exhaust. CMP solid coupler - might be a bit overkill for a street car? Not sure how much harsher it would make the feedback, but an option to consider anyway. Max Parts Shop solid U-joint - similar to above? More for track use rather than daily driver? The column spacer thing is an interesting option though.

G'day team, Sat down to do a bit of further research and fill in some areas I've yet to address, and make a list of parts I still need to order. Ran into a few areas I'm frustrated with / unsure on and would appreciate any sort of input some of the more experienced folk might be able to offer. Stuff I'm still yet do address / am grappling with: Transmission detent repair tools - about to put an order in for this set of custom punches to do the shifter pins and detents, unless someone has a lead on where I could borrow/buy one on these shores? Quite a specialised tool so unlikely that I'll need in more than once but then again, could be able to resell / borrow out / do some cashies if I do buy it. Transmission detent repair kit - have ordered every single bit in the kit except for the bloody covers for the shifter pins that have been on backorder / no longer available for months from every shop I could think to check. Only ones I could find were from this seller on eBay that are custom made and not an original part, which looks a bit different from the photos and I'm not too keen to trust. From having hooked the shifter linkage up, the lever does seem to lean to the right and the shift into reverse is far from smooth so definitely worth doing the detents. Shifter pins might be fine but figured I might as well do everything in one go and not have to drop the gearbox later on. To be held up by some tidy metal plug is damn frustrating. Timing & oil pump chains - leaning towards replacing all three. At under $150 I figure I might as well. Have read and followed a few rebuilds though where those were just reused without any issues. How much of a waste of money would it be or sensible to replace regardless? Power steering pumps - the donor car came with an LF-30, the wagon had an LF-20. The shaft on the LF-20 has a bit of play in and out with a wee clunk so not too keen to use that. When it comes to those two, I've read that the LF-30 is the beefier of the two, so supposedly more reliable, but then again was discontinued after only a year in production... What's the deal? Power steering pressure hoses - the silly thing is, the pressure hoses on the LF-20 actually look in good nick without even a bit of weeping (not yet anyway) and the ones on the LF-30 were so bad that I chucked them out straight away, thinking I'll get new ones anyway. That was before I checked their prices... FCP, ECS, Spareto etc only stock LHD ones, and BMParts quoted me $545 for one and $254 for the other... Brilliant. Will probably go the custom route as recommended in another thread. So I'm at a bit of a conundrum - do I use the LF-30 and make up custom hoses OR use the current hoses and get a new LF-20? Sensors sensors sensors - which ones are worth replacing preventatively and which ones should be left in the "as needed" category? I'm mainly thinking about the ones attached to the engine itself. Access to some of them is an absolute bastard with the engine in the car so I'm thinking I'll preventatively replace some of the most hard-to-get-to ones. But also would appreciate if people could chime in on which ones hardly ever give issues / are good with just a check over and a clean / definitely worth replacing. Rough list of ones I'm considering: O2 sensors x 4; Cam position sensors x 2; Crank position sensors x 1; Ignition knock sensor x 1; Intake air temp sensor x 1 - cheap enough to replace; Temperature sensor (OFH & cylinder head) - cheap enough to replace; Oil pressure switch (OFH) - cheap enough to replace; Oil level sensor - easy enough to replace during oil change, won't bother for now. Sensor brands - bit of a controversial topic, I know. Obviously best to stick with genuine / OE ones but then again, you could easily spend more than a grand on just the sensors I listed above. I also know there's reports of FCP falsely marking some brands as OE when they were not. Currently, they're listing VNE as the OE maker of cam sensors and VDO for crankshaft and knock sensors for example, both brands I'm not at all familiar with. A lot of these are also offered by other reputable OEM brands such as Hella at less than half the price. Hella is the OE maker of the oil level sensor for example so you'd assume they know their sh*t when it comes to sensors. I obviously don't want to skimp and get some dodgy crap but at the same time, maybe some of those sensors are simple enough that going for OEM over OE you wouldn't really be risking much? Or am I just overthinking it?

Got the bottom one off no trouble, top one I reckon is stuffed. Seems like the plastic isn't pushing those metal flaps out far enough so they're just jamming up against the ridge. I think I'll have to revert to violence but problem for another day. Didn't get away without dismantling the front end after all. Tried tilting the gearbox back to get access to all the bolts and disconnect it but 3 of the 4 E14 bolts just wouldn't budge and there was no room to swing a breaker bar around. Meant a few extra hours of mucking about dismantling everything but out she came. The AC condenser got into some weird yoga poses along the way but all stayed intact. Will be mating the harmonic balancer from this engine with the new rebuilt one to make the AC system work. The rest of the block and auto tranny are surplus to requirements if anyone is after any bits by chance. Knocked the newly-made zero emissions vehicle somewhat back together and rolled her out the way. Not sure I'm a big fan of the new lowrider stance though. Final tally as a 325 slug: Onwards & upwards.

Don't know what mission you're undertaking but might be worth noting that there were also a few things that changed around 09/2002 for both b25 and b30. The valve cover, coils and associated wiring changed as well as a difference in harmonic balancers. The main auxiliary side is the same I believe but on the AC side the number or ribs changed so the belts aren't interchangeable. Worth checking out if you're swapping engines that are opposite sides of that date.

Not much of a rant but felt worth a share. Was browsing a listing for a random 330i when I came across this... wholesome exchange. I mean, my sense of humour is questionable at best but wtf man, this is not OK 😂

Yeah looks about right. Heads are identical apart from the intake cam. Currently using a head from a b25 for my b30 rebuild. The flap on the b30 DISA is bigger so the manifold must be different as well. Haven't pulled the bottom end of the b25 apart just yet so can't compare, but safe to assume that at a minimum the crank will be different.

At your service 🤓 The response was underwhelmingly predictable.

Whoopsie

Lucky you. I'm waiting an extra month because of one item out of 50

Is That Milford Sounds?

Beauty! Will look into it, thanks a bunch. Do you know if it's something they look at when going for a cert at all or so long as there's no leaks it's all fair game?

Peak capitalism, baby! What a time to be alive

Head does seem to be all good so at the shop now awaiting to be worked on. Continued dismantling the rest of the engine in the meantime. Driveshaft now off, transmission cooler lines removed, gearbox all disconnected, AC pump now dangling off the side so just the mounts holding the engine and gearbox in. Haven't touched the front end yet. Wondering if I can either lift the engine & gearbox out whilst tilting it up or maybe slide it back under the car and out without dropping the subframe. Should be a fair bit easier without the head and OFH sticking up. Would save a fair bit of hassle as I want to roll the shell out into the driveway to clear some work space. Want to see if I can tidy up this wiring loom a bit. The O2 sensors are paired up with the auto gearbox connections in the same tube and connect into a whole spider's web in the fuse box. Will play around with the loom that came off the donor car to see what's safe to cut away and what not to touch. Also, f**k these things straight to hell. Absolute devil's work. Any clever way of getting these off? Have spent stupid time already trying to pry them off but no luck, pushing the plastic tip in but still feel well stuck on. Considering carefully slicing it open with a rotary tool at this point.

Lovely car. Awesome to see it properly used

What a build! Loving the dedication and workmanship, goals right there. Did you make the power steering hoses yourself or is there a shop in Chch you'd recommend? I need two new pressure hoses for my E46, all the usual suppliers like FCP and RockAuto only stock LHD ones and the best local quote I got was $800... Probably cheaper to get them custom made instead. Cheers

Quick wee update. Had no luck finding a spare head locally. A few places claimed to have one but either couldn't find it or just failed to get back to me, so those hopes fell through. Unfortunately also, the head on @wrs' engine turned out to be borderline unusable. Was super helpful though that he went through the effort of stripping it off and taking it in to his local machine shop to get tested before going through the trouble of shipping it down. Top man, greatly appreciated. My wagon had decided to spit the dummy and started misfiring in the meantime so it made it an easy decision to park it up and start tearing it apart. Rolled it into the garage and spent all of last week tearing into it. Finally got the head off on Sunday, stripped it and took it in to the machine shop yesterday. They did a quick hardness and straightness test on it and it looks all good to use! Much better than the first candidate I took in so well chuffed with that. Will have them clean, pressure test and seat the valves properly, as well as getting the injectors tested and cleaned. Should be a week or two before I get it back but happy to be making progress again. Happy days.

Cams off, head off, heading to the machine shop tomorrow. Both the cams had some not insignificant damage. Cylinder 2 cap on intake... ...and cylinder 3 cap on exhaust. I think I could have potentially used the exhaust one on the 3L engine as well but the one on the donor engine looked to be in better shape anyway. Another public service announcement to replace your plastic coolant pipes. Both the pistons and valves were pretty crusty and caked up. As was to be expected after 225k km's I guess. Looking nice and spacious in there now. Will see what the machine guys tell me. If this head is also no good, I'm buying a Suzuki Swift.

Yeah not a complete unknown. I'll do some more digging into whether the sedan ones are compatible/optimal for a touring at all, or might just sell them. Also on the suspension front, in one of the M539 videos he mentions using E90 X-drive strut mounts. They're flat at the top and are more compact, giving a bit of extra lowering up front. The rear wheels on all the E46's seem to sit in further inside the fenders than the fronts so seems like a clever way of slightly balancing it out. Already have a new set of original ones but might sell them and give these a go instead.