gofaster

Yes, I contacted Ray recently, he suggest a local BMW agent to take it to. First fuel up was in Hamilton with Gull. Called Ray re check light on way home, he advised Gull fuel was not flash and could have caused the check, it has been run on BP 98 or NPD 100 since.

Hi Dave I got the small check code driving back to Ch Ch which cleared upon restarts. The large lower check light started soon after I got home, but I didn't get a scanner for another month waiting on Chinese snail mail. As far as i know, the engine, ECU and dash cluster was transferred over from donor car, I do not have another ECU and would likely need an assist with that sort of thing. I did a quick run with another member here with his data logger, but it did not show any over boost from memory, if anything not making full boost, but was some time ago now so memory not so flash.

Bear with me, this is a bit long-winded… Looking to tap into the Bimmersport knowledge base before admitting defeat and taking my car to a workshop. Car is an N54 powered 130i and I have been struggling with VANOS and Boost check codes for some time. Engine mileage is 98,500km. I’ve tried to tackle this myself over time in the hope of saving a bundle of money a workshop may have charged swapping things out in the hope of striking lucky, but now I am not sure about the next step. What I have noticed, done or replaced: The large engine check light comes on, but not until the oil temp needle starts moving away from minimum and typically occurs under light load (as I don’t use WOT until hot), then often thereafter. The small engine check light appears even less often and usually only appears when more throttle is applied such as a punt up the motorway. I cant help but think the boost issue is a sensor/electrical issue given the typically light load that causes the check, which is always followed by limp mode. I’m hoping the Vanos issue is not the Camshaft Ledge thing I read a little about. A stop/start clears limp mode and the large check light, although a OOBD2 unit is required to clear the small engine check light and all codes. The only configuration change I have made since purchasing was to remove the oil catch can that was connected to the aftermarket PCV valve while replacing the rocker cover and gasket, so back to factory. Checked or replaced: Replaced both Vanos Solenoids (after cleaning originals which had no affect) Cleaned both Vanos sensors that sit on right side of block near front Replaced both camshaft position sensors Replaced both Boost sensors that connect to canisters and wastegates Replaced all vacuum piping I could find except the one going to rear turbo wastegate (too hard for now) Checked oil filter cap to ensure the centre piece is still there (has been at each oil change) Have done a lot of other maintenance such as most gaskets but unsure that would be causing the codes. Codes: Vanos code: 2A82 DME: VANOS Intake Boost code: 3100 DME: Boost pressure control deactivation (typical) Or 30FF DME: Turbocharger boost pressure too low (very infrequent) Also get: 2BA2 DME: Terminal 15 deactivation, activation (maybe nothing?) 2F6C DME: Exhaust gas-flap, activation ( assume because of "golf tee" mod at rear muffler) These codes appeared before I had the car tuned (by Autopassion), same codes appear after but boy it’s more fun until the check light comes on. Was hoping to move the car on, however would like to fix these issues first as I don’t want to sell the car as is. Hopefully someone in the Bimmersport community has had experience with these codes on the N54 engine and can pass on their experiences. If I lived in Auckland I would get it back to HellBM for a look as they built the car, and seem to know what they are doing. Cheers, John

For those who cannot make Jacks Ridge in person, according to the TV guide it is broadcast live on TV3 from 245pm Great to see that little Fiesta clip.

I agree with Chris also check the oil filter and cooler housings for leaks. Before you spend any $s, troubleshoot as best you can otherwise you may end up spending a lot of $s and time fixing something that wasn't broke. Could even be a leaking oil feed from turbo/s? (but hope not)

That would be Frank Kelly, had the pleasure of following him at the Otago rally a few years back - real crowd pleaser, "Baby Blue" is an extension of his body. His Daughter Lauren has come along well as the co-driver.

and I've gotta ask about the N20 = what probs, is there a thread I can checkout? Was shortlisting the F20 125i for next daily - if I can convince myself to go Auto

Thanks for the heads up Dave, will pay a visit tomorrow and stash some away

Director General ordering all councils to fluoridate water supplies. The target audience doesn't even drink water as they are fed sugary sh*t by their lazy, numpty parents who dont take any responsibility for their kids health.

I compete against one Chris, in Motorkhana and Autocross. Was lucky enough to be given a drive. They feel like you expect, a purpose built car that is road legal. Awesome little thing that does everything well, just need a little more burble from the exhaust - which you can fix. (On grass my Nissan is still King, but that is likely the driver holding the Yaris up 😁)

Fiesta ST 1.6T would be my pick, easy to tune and more reliable than the Mini. Great on the twisties too. My mate loves his one as a daily.

Hi - my N54 powered 130i has just started to produce a short whine as I turn the wheel each way at low speeds (e.g. parking) It got fresh P/S fluid 6 months ago and there are no issues with reservoir leaks etc so assume it is the pump. Anyone had this problem, and what did you do? Cheers, John

Did you check out the recent post in For Sale?

There is a heap of MSNZ technical Officers listed on MSNZ website under Contacts. Suggest you give one (or more) of them a call to get the authoritive answer but my 2c is you can drive the car on the road with the Authority card other than to and from events. Pretty sure you need to enter or have competed in 2 events p.a.to retain your card.

Hi mate. Dont want to distract too much from this build thread but you can bone up on safety items via Motorsport NZ website, starting with this link. Head to section 4.6 and go from there. There will be other stuff to consider such as seat, belts, and other safety apparel, all referenced in this link. https://manual.motorsport.org.nz/index.php/knowledgebase/36-2-01a-schedule-a-1/ Cheers, John

Looks like you not only built a carport for your 325i, but a house for your digger 🤣

Have you checked in with HellBM? They fitted a Quaife LSD to their N54 130i project which I now own.

i dont know much about this model but you can use realoem.com to verify the model/build info just do a Carjam, grab the last 7 digits of VIN and type it in as below

Hey Elias, where did you buy your boost solenoids from. I'm chasing some codes

Out of curiosity, what do you think the car needs (deep pockets wise)? Do you think starter or something more sinister like engine rebuild Thanks, John

This is the kit you want. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-5-piece-m-upgrade-bmwmcakit put them in your cart work out shipping at checkout.

For your car, you might be better spending the $s on an M3 LCA kit and wheel alignment

I always ask for a dyno graph that my tunes are based off The tune I got for my N54 130i is attached It feels every bit of that.

Yeah could probably move to an auto for a daily now, have other manual cars for the fun stuff.

Just quoting their website, best you call Basil to discuss (no affiliation other than happy customer)