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Thanks to @Karter16 I've got the new gauge face sorted from Venoxy Definitely easier than reinventing the wheel for sure. I was going to use another crowd 'Black Cat Custom' but they don't ship international and are more expensive. Should be a pretty low key and OEM looking result !!

Assume it's beyond a basic DIY approach ? If it's replacing a standard through-pin component that should be pretty straight forward with a YouTube vid or two ?

They were pretty snug to go in, next time they are off I'll try and remember to pop them off ... not sure it'll look any good tho personally Front suspension / steering bits: No pics to support, but added some Whiteline adjustable front sway bar end links, new front LCA's and inner / outer tie rod ends recently since none of that was done during the build and there was a bit of a knock that could be felt when hitting bumps. Mostly cleared it up 🤷‍♂️ The adjustable end links were mostly to cater for 'not quite OEM' angles between strut and bar which was giving the OEM links a hard time. Some other bits: Got a 2011 370Z ECU from the USA to swap in. The folks at UpRev (my OEM ECU software) have limited / less support for the JDM ECU's and I was striking issues with a couple things ... Map selections. The ECU has support for 5 different maps but they were struggling to debug my old JDM ECU as to why it was not changing maps. Now with a 2011 USDM model they should be able to get the map selection working, fingers crossed. My ECU was from an auto so did not recognise the clutch switch (which i have yet to install) so I can use the launch control, full throttle shift and other 'ARC' features that need a clutch switch Got some 'Advanced Wheel Locks' lock nuts ahead of some kind of press in stud conversion happening at some point Got some Performance MRP weld on aluminium flanges for MAF sensors so I can make some new intake tubes at some point

May be a he / him car at the moment but definitely well on his way to a they / them with the engine swap 🤣 Enjoying the updates and I'm a +1 for it looking good 👍

Dang that's a shame it's not getting a rebuild on your terms but maybe a great opportunity all the same ... looking forward to the motor build thread already

@Vass that wagon looks hot !! Thanks for the link, look like some really good options there and they ship international !

I've never actually put the main tray back on but it seems to be staying relatively tidy at the moment. Trying to source the new front bumper at the moment so might get it on there after that materialises 👍

Sorry just seen I never replied, am on the shore yep Keen to come along to any local events and the Meguiar's Coffee & Cars etc so folks can have a poke around 👍 Got the new wheels last week and they look pretty good, just needs to drop slightly (10 in the back 15 in the front) and it'll be looking much better overall.

A followup with the new wheels on Really need to go and have glamour shoot some place !!

Definitely not keen on anything with the snap in bump strip wotsit. @Vass assume the rear is wagon specific eh ? Might be a tricky one to get a hold of.

Looking to get new front and rear bumpers (front is a bit trashed and rear is the shitty value line item) but can't seem to turn up much locally and overseas shipping is pricey ... pic attached 🤣 Looking for M3 style front (for non-M coupe) and mtech 2 or similar rear with diffuser insert. Where do people tend to look for such things ??

Finally got the new rims for the E46 from the land of the rising sun Also got the car up in the air and gave things a bit of an inspection and clean 👌

Quite a good shot of the engine bay to see just how on the piss the motor really is !!

Car looks great doing what you've planned for it to do 🏅Must be a bucket load of fun, and nerves !! A trip to Meremere this Friday ? 😅 I'm going to take the car to see how it goes compares to my historical cars (maybe 18 years ago ?!) ... weather is not looking great so hopefully it's worth going.

Z3 and E46 have these items in common or is that E36 ? I have E46 items ...

I just looked at my spare tank seal / oring on the weekend and contemplated throwing it out 😬 Let me know if you need another hah. Make sure you get the 'long ass wand' set for the 3M cavity wax ... I went ham on mine in the end of the frame rails to get where the plates are welded in. Pretty sure this is the one I used: https://www.hardypackaging.co.nz/products/3m-cavity-wax-plus-applicator-wand-kit-08851?variant=14181165498429 When welding was there a breeze blowing perhaps ? Doesn't take too much sometimes to blow away the shielding gas at times which can create a mess.

I'd hit up a good commercial automotive paint supplier ... in Auckland I fully recommend Car Colours but that's not much use to you. Couple of things I learnt doing my rear end and under body: Use the most hard core commercial products you can get your hands on as a general rule (and the protective gear to go with it) Check expiry dates on things that have them (seal sealer for example) as some operators might try and move old stock via retail and save the good stuff for their commercial clients Careful if using 1k underseal and a 2k over the top. My 2k paint tried to eat the underseal and it did end up bleeding through a little I got a bunch of maybe 1" x 3" disposable rollers (and general thinners for cleanup) for painting the under body and wheel wells etc with 2k epoxy primer (bare metal areas) or 2k polyurethane paint. Worked a treat !! Can be fairly accurate if needed but covers an area great and no upside down brush running paint all over you etc. The underseal I used was average at best, would probably not even bother using again if all you're trying to do is get some texture. Around the RACP plates I'd probably just go large on the seam sealer and then maybe try and roll it a bit to texture it ? Some posts around this one from my build thread if of use:

Same for me recently, brand new cowl that had to come off for the glass to come out ... blasted all but maybe 3 of the clips. Luckily it was the super average hot staking that failed so I got the soldering iron and melted those wacky square pads back onto the cowl itself. The pokey parts were luckily still all attached to the little raft wotsits ... not using great words here but you'll know what I mean if you've seen one 😆

Sorry should have clarified it's intermittent and only when turning the wheel when stationary or moving very slowly as per the video ... assume high load on the hydraulic system.

So at low speed when exercising the power steering i get a strange groaning noise some times ... sounds kinda like a piston binding in a bore then releasing or maybe fluid bypassing or similar ? This is my nissan power steering pump and OEM rack so its a bit of a hybrid solution ... i need a flow restrictor on the pump as its pushing way too much fluid causing a very light feel also. Ideas ? Noise is at the 8s mark in the video.

Ta daaaaaaaa ...

I hope so !! Would have preferred a straight silver instead of the funky 'Glim Black' but can't wait to get them on. Hopefully traction improves Thankyou so much !! Glad it was an interesting read, never had so many notifications hah Might start another thread on the next side project of making custom gauge faces. This is so I can finally fix the RPM gauge (needs more numbers) and maybe add some other special herbs n spices. Have drawn out the outline so far but the question remains around how I will make to OEM quality on plastic etc 🤔

I've gone for a classic with JDM twist of course (and because they were cheaper than Apex !!) 😆 18x8.5 +38 in the front with 235/40 18x9.5 +38 in the back with 255/35 https://www.work-wheels.com.au/work/emotion-m8r

Wheels are finally on a ship and have left Japan, should be here at the end of the month all going well 🤞 Also re-jiggled my custom data display and it looks a lot more in theme with more subdued colours (when nothing is wrong). Really hard to capture properly in an image but you get the idea ... hopefully

Bahahahah love it, very well played sir 🤣