M5V8

No plate surrounds and peake reader has no fault codes currently but it might not have played up since I reset. Ill try the wd40 and see how we go Cheers team

Is there a fix for this? Nothing has worked for me. Same issue on iPad + pc + diff browsers also

hey team, I believe I might have an errant parking sensor. Not all the time, but occasionally a rear one will just beep it's head off, when there isn't anything there. I note it's better when the car is clean, and it's not all the time. Just now and then. But it's enough to get annoying and have to turn it off. where do I start with this one?

one of the reasons I'm really not keen to change. The V8 is really not working hard at all at 100-120km/hr so it's consumption is really surprising for such a large heavy car. I doubt you would realistically get that even in the new F10 M5. I've seen as low as 9/100 hypermilling on the way back down from Taupo. Couldn't quite make it to 8 tho.

swap ya my R32 GTR racecar .... (motor's alittle on the in-pieces side).

http://www.ngkspark.co.nz/spark-plugs-featured-product it's all in the company blurb. IMO - I always replace parts with the best available. Sometimes OEM is a compromise as they are in this case.

PM sent

get it scanned. Hopefully that should tell you something. But from memory the ECU uses inputs from the MAF & 02 sensors to trim fuel maps. But anything from old spark plugs or crap fuel could affect. But you are right. I regularly get 10l/100 in my M5 cruisin @ 100kph on the motorway, 14-15 on average when i hammer it and usually 600km out of a tank.

where would you find these spacers? ... i'd be keen on a set.

most noticeable was throttle response, it was akin to pushing the 'sport' button. It also pulled harder through the rev range and now i notice the traction control light coming on when I'm on full throttle in higher gears (in the dry!). Mind you my old spark plugs had done 90ks so this experience would be exaggerated. But still highly recommend. I also run the same plugs in my racecar.

+1 amenOh and my lights were on low beam allan. that's how bad the visibility was getting. There actually was fog later down the road. Just not there. Front fog lights on BMW's don't dazzle oncoming traffic anyway.... even the cop said it's the 4WD's with the big ones on their bull bars that aren't level and point straight at oncoming traffic that's the issue.

I just received my AFE pro dry airfilters from turner motorsport. probably no real power gains but at least they are re-useable so you are saving at each service as well as the environment. I changed (from K&N) when i read up about oiling MAF sensors. Switched to new MAF sensors solved my occasionally stall issue but haven't improved power that I can feel. At least I know that the MAF's are new and there's no possibility of oil getting on them.

this is a personal pet hate of mine. offenders should be heavily fined along with not moving over left when not overtaking. Interestingly enough some cops do care. I got pulled over on SH1 just outside Turangi by a cop. He was on a 100kph corner and just walked out onto the road. He then preceeded to tell me about how fog lights on SUV's in particular have been a real problem in the area and I should turn my fog lights off. I did. Of course. Without pointing out the low light, overcast, grey and drizzling conditions we were currently in, which I would have thought would warrant the use of factory fitted fogs lights. Not to mention having someone wave me down (without any lighting or safety vest) on a corner in a 100 k zone. TBO - i was happy to get out of there, I thought i was either getting punked or it was an ambush of some description.

good outcome. way to pull together & help a brother out BMsport!

child labour is no laughing matter Julian!

well currently your rear bar wouldn't be working very well, if at all. I'd tend to agree, get yours fixed then see if it doesn't meet your requirements. I've changed sway bars for racecars for about a 1.5mm change because they were getting too much understeer. But we are talking a racecar & on the limit handling, chasing lap times. That was a cheap fix comparatively. I doubt you will really feel this on a road car, but it depends how you drive it I guess.

try with a smaller diameter baby.

i guess the question now is, is upgrading from 15 to 16.5mm worth the $$ & hassle ?

you'd probably be better PM'in Ray from Hellbm he's a sponsor on this forum. I'd say he would have a better price on a second hand bar. It's not like you really need a new rear sway bar. Anyone old 16.5mm one will do. Then you just need to replace the bushes. I have some new(ish) brackets if you want 'em.

I believe the 16.5mm bar was only fitted to the M5 which is what it's a popular swap. Yours should be either 14 or 15mm best to check you particular car tho http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E39/Seda...tabilizer_rear/

interestingly enough the E60 M5 had a manual box option in the US I believe.

mines abit hit and miss also. I use it infrequently as I find i always am over riding it to wipe more or less.

there you go. 1 broken bracket and the other is on it's way out too. The bracket is the same size for all e39's. They are a standard thin alloy pressed design. it's the bush that varies in size for the various bar sizes. If you went to a M5 bar you would need to replace the bush also. This is basically what I did to sure up mine. http://www.bimmerzone.com/product/BEP-E39-RSBB-KIT.html Beastpower are thicker CNC machined brakets. Alot stronger.

correct. The rear M5 sway bar is 16.5mm and there's no reports of breakages that I have read. It's a pretty beefy bar i'd be surprised if that ever happened. It's the rear sway bar links that apparently are prone to snapping. Although I've never snapped one myself, i've upgraded to the beastpower links for safety. http://www.bimmerzone.com/product/BEP-E39-RSBB-RED.html