hunter

Thanks Glenn, well prepared to do this and car is booked in for 2nd opinion friday will be requesting they bleed the lines as part of process. would rather pay for a bunch of new fluiod over the cost of a new (to me) pump i dont need. fingers crossed.

Cheers @Eagle Pads, fluid and dics were changed. long pedal travel is the main symptom of whatever issues there is. im assured correct process was follwed for fluid change - i have no reason t odoubt that, to a degree. as it cannot be explained why the pump failure is the current line of thinking / resolution (an expensive one at that) i also have no warning lights or codes. my gut tells me 2nd opinion is needed to satisfy the "Why" question I still have. As pressure comes back after hard braking with a soft pedal (ABS works during this), this kind if feels like air in the line ( my brake problem experience is limited) Unfortunatley i do not have the tools or the skills / time to get stuck int othis myself so will be seeking a local indy to review

Thats what "eccentuated" lets say - after thechange along with pads too, it's very poor peddal feel and long / spongy travel. not like that before hand. The change was done at the dealer here in Hams and I have been told the pump was modulated as part of the change. Is it possible that is certain teps werent done completley it could be air in the line? I forgot to add above (have now edited) that after 3 hard stops the pressure returned to the peddal, more or less as i wouldexpect it to feel.

ABS Pump reconditioning/ replacement for E39 530i.After brake fluid change pump has begun to fail. Spongy pedal and poor performance. Diagnosed by dealer and recommendation is new pump, however cost of new unit is currently prohibitive, so seeking rebuild recommendations. have read this thread below, but not too sure if the pump ( Hydraulic) and and module (eletrci) need to be fixed / replaced together note" after 3 hard stops when driving recnetly the pressure returned to the peddal, more or less as i wouldexpect it to feel.

That top shot is money man, nice capture.

returned from few days away to a flat car. Called roadside assist battery van to come and test the battery and car. recommendation was new battery which i got at AA discount and all back up and running. Grom reinstalled and sounds like sh*t lol with lots of distortion after checking all connections and resetting the Groma few times seems to be back to normal, well balanced sound.

Anyone in the Hamilton area have a multimeter I can borrow for an afternoon friday or Saturday this week. Need to test my battery

That's the same for me mate, and what I thought was going in. But like you say it'd have to be alot of draw to drain the battery ina few hours. So could be a combo of things. I left the grom out of car last night and it was fine at mid day today. Will be back home Friday arvo and will see how it us then. Will also try putting my original grom in too. I also need to test the battery with a multimeter. @str8_6 I'll look up the HVAC fan resistor, cheers for advice. was the fix to replace this resistor or the HVAC unit itself?

HI team, looking for advice on below. im sure this has been talked about before (have done search and seen simialr post but here is my experience with sudden and random power drain(?) Car wasworking sunday 8th not working monday 9th Only Changes on 8th were new drivers door seal. . Jump start on 9th morning. Car holds charge for approx 6 hours. Jump start again Took car for drive on 9th Boot Lid Open warning appeared. (this has appeared before and firmly closing boot resolves the warning) Talking to dealer about abbtery repacement and checking battery details when i notice Bluetooth connection available even when car off. 10th sept. Suspect GROM unit not switchng off whn it should - question reoans as to why this is the case? Removed grom unit on 10th. Plug mid back in. Take car for drive. Drives fine. Car sat for 7 or 8 hours on 10th with Grom unit removed and held charge. Attempted to reinstall grom unit, car went flat during installation after from was plugged in. Removed grom again. Re jump started the car. CEL on. 3 codes, relating to ram error, injector bank 2. Codes cleared. Took car for drives runs strong no signs of issues related to CEL codes. Possibly result of battery going flat while mid was out. I am yet to test the battery due to not having multi meter but may call roadside assisit to test it for me as the do battery health report for jump starts... it seems odd that the GROM unit would remain on for an extended period and be enough to drain the battery fully. im guess ing the currenty battery is actually toast and also somethnig (?) is keeping the GROM unit on- all doors areclosing properly aside fomr the odd boot warning whic as above, firm closre removes the warning - can this remain an issue if no warning is reported by the car? I have inspected the loom to the boot, the bitsi can see any way and it looks "ok"

Replaced drivers door inner seal. Old one was well past it. Only 2 two goes to get it lined up. Quick wipe with some protectant and we are good to go. Also replaced the roundel on the hood. Was greeted with the attached when I removed the chipped old one. Took a bit to clean it up with a plastic blade tool. Installed new badge with proper rubber grommets and it looks much better.

Spent my fathers day after noon washing the E39. First wash after a cut and polish / paint correction a few weeks ago. Also first wash with chemical guys shampoo. Super sudsing stuff goes on and comes off super smooth with a new wash Mitt. Also a coat of fireball hydrophobic spray. Need to get the wheels refurbished soon. Their condition is driving me nuts.

After the E39 developed some rear interior rattles i went on the hunt for solutions from adding foam rings to door clips, replacing some clips , lubed the door card edes where they contact the door frame....all with no major change I even contemplated pulling the rear deck out again to investigate where the heck the creaks and rattles were coming from. As an avoidance tactic to that i trawled various forums on the subject of E39 rattle solution i came across this forum link, https://www.m5board.com/threads/fix-for-creaking-and-rattling-doors.137711/page-3 the tips in here about performing some TLC on door seals and rubber bits and adding strips of insulation tape to the strike plates to ensure a ever so slightly firmer latch was life changing, After doing this the interior is rattle free.

Replaced the sliding arm rest handle and tray. The rubberized coating was peeling and gross. thoughts of recoating went out the window when I saw the price of the stuff was more than parts from fcp. Before and after attached. Plus treated all the door seals to a clean and protect plus wrapped strike plates with some insulation tape to try and locate / stop rear cabin rattles

Hi @adro Yeah whines regardless of speakers. Sometimes it's more noticeable than others but haven't been able to determine a pattern . I have hooked the mic up yet and have disconnected the charger cable as the Male aux jack wasnt working right. Everything else about it is great, connects easily etc just the white noise factor. How Far away from the tape deck did you put the wire taps, could that be a factor, mine were quite close....?

you guys have any issues with high pitch "whining" from the unit? mine is located behind HVAC, belowe the tape player i get it at any volume, not really noticable whe the music is playing above quiet - i got a new unit from GROM as the forst was really bad, this ones better but not silent even when no music is playing i can hear it keen to hear your experiences an placements

I took the E39 to Caffiene and Gasoline track Cruise, at Hampton Downs. Was super fun and will definatley be going again. Cooked the Brakes a bit so will need better fluid for next time and possibly pads, thye were due for a change soon anyway.

I have some 18 x 8 S65 reps (italian made) if you're looking to change those wheels up.

Any more progress on this @francoisv

Fixed the cable, it had slipped out of the guide, very loose in the guide and fell out again when putting foor card back in place. To remedy this I loosely affixed some tape around the guide to stop the cable falling out while putting the handle back in place. Worked a treat, my passenger now no longer needs full time chauffer treatment.

I have a set of 18 x 8 style 65 Italian reps I'm wanting to swap for a staggered set of 17" style 66 wheels. I had bought these for some temp wheels when I get my style 42s refurbished, but I've changed my mind.

Got my new GROM audio pcb today to replace the one that constantly emits a high frequency whine during playback. the new pcb is a direct replacement in the plastic housing. Put it in the car, good playback with no whine. However upon attempting to exit the car the passenger front door doesn't open from the inside. Must have bumped a cable loose when doing speakers

To me, it works musically beyond the marketing and tidy boxes. The clarity is great, sure there will be better systems out there but for what I want its perfect. , I usually buy from bavsound when speakers are on sale making it extra competitive without the extra labor quoted by local installer to fix something like a Focal set up.l, which would need extra brackets and crap. I see you're in Wellington, If you're coming to Tokaanu in March next year, I'll give you a demo.

Finally got the time to install the last of my Bavsound speaker upgrade, the front components (tweers and larger drivers, mid range is left standard) Taking the drivers door card off would also hopefully allow me to address the rattle coming from inside the door, this turnd out to be one of the metal clips that hold the window strip at the top of the door, had come off. Some how. Got the speakers in no worries, direct fit so was easy install. It wasnt until i did the passenger door i noticed the wiring between the 2 doors was different! upon closer inspection (after removing the drivers door card again (gah)) i noted the on the drivers side the mid range and the pinch sensor wire were plugged into the wrong spots( from previous owner / whichever did the work, I just plugged in where unplugged ), so the mid range wasnt actually working! I reversed this and all is well Finished passenger door and auditioned thesystem properly before putting it all back together this time. Once all back together the sounds is so much clearer high highs, lower lows all from factor fitment upgrades. I had this system in my e46 and loved it there also. Now once my GROM audio replacement PCB arrvies to stop the persistent humm and whine from AUX Bluetooth mode i'll be set! Or maye i'll get an amp to add a bt more ooomph. Edit: now the window plug is back in the right place the automatic window close is now working again. Woot.

Hey Mate, do you still have these and would be willignto swap for some 18" ET18 Style 65 italian replicas?

Hi @adro Did the LEDs give the same or better beam length as the OEM halos Still contemplating getting some.