Eagle

FCP Euro or Pelicanparts. <$350 (shouldn't be any GST) for OEM Sachs with new shock mounts and bump stops (which you should do also) Easy to install yourself with basic tools as long as you got a set of axle stands and jack. Plenty of writes ups.

Might look like a 30k car but i agree its appears overpriced. Engine bay looks fine to me, my engine bay gets real dusty here with this dry weather and ive cleaned it many times.

Yep got 5 myself. The price can only go up.

About the same as my E39 on my highway commute. Shorter final drive option and speeding don't help, i can tell you that much. Other things: Check for vacuum leaks, clean maf, good t-stat, test\replace old O2 sensors, clean injectors, Im sure good vanos seals and DISA valve help also.

Wasn't worried about that. Having refinished 2 sets of these myself (running a set atm) they do require a good deal of input but they are worth it once done. GLWS

Very good condition for vintage? Curbing looks quite bad on 2 of them

If you ring the dealer and give them the last 7 digits on your VIN im sure they can help If you remove some fluid from the reservoir and place it on something white you will be able confirm if its running CHF or ATF. CHF = green tint, ATF = red If it uses ATF then a full synthetic DX3 or 4 would work fine

Looks quite unique (good unique) E30 + M60 is one reliable and long lasting combo. GW

Ive yet to buy a car that doesn't need something but some are worst than others. E39's for example - old cars by today's standards with low plastic quality, running more complex and less reliable electrical systems combined with a more complex full alloy suspension setup = lotsamoney to get back to standard. Im sure i could refresh two E34's for the same price as one E39.

As Andy said they are much a much rarer car than a 328. From a cost point the M44 is less problematic and cheaper to run than M52's while being nicer to work on

With new breakes you may be right

I agree. If it weren't for these clowns putting tacky sh*t all over their ecoboxes, i couldn't have a laugh at their expense

Yep plenty of oils that say they meet the spec. ZF lifeguard is probably the proper choice but not cheap. I'll probably use full synth Maxlife for mine soon but that mainly because i got a lot of it Any of the good brands should have it in 20L containers which are much cheaper for the $. I don't know what method you are using for the oil change though,

Depends on your exact transmission but i definitely would not use that (not full synth for starters). Valvoline MaxLife ATF fairly cheap and commonly used overseas (transmission dependent) Ive always used the specified Fuchs from BNT for all transmissions ive ever done.

Seems reasonably priced https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1496026637.htm?rsqid=a2911d617a6e438a907630e4878ea358

No idea how you manage 3 of them. Can't wait to get rid of just the one, so much crappy plastic failing everywhere. The other day i noticed both the bottom corners on my msport front bumper have had chunks taken out of them (probably from stones etc hitting them at speed). Never see that on say an E34.

Photo background looked like another Scott's house here in Hamilton.

Nice. Did you attend Berkley middle school by any chance?

There is a hole each of the inner fender edges near the top of the park light. You push a long screw driver onto the release tab down there to release the corners.

First id get the proper tool as you going to need them anyway. You can buy a full set of flared wrenches at SCA for $20 or just a 10mm one at hand tool place for probably not much Depends on how bad you rounded it, A decent gas torch to heat around the thread on the wheel cylinder then flared wrench or vise grips. Should crack easy with heat.

Easiest route would be to get some poly ones purely because you can install them by hand which is much easier if the subframe isn't removed from the car . Ive never noticed any harshness over rubber and ive used them in many E34's. https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-5-Series-E34-88-96-POWERFLEX-REAR-SUBFRAME-TO-CHASSIS-BUSHES-PFR5-507/192211115615?epid=1825257998&hash=item2cc0acde5f:g:WqIAAOSwrfVZOMky Otherwise like Gabe said

Nice. I think if id kept my manual TU one the first thing id buy would be an LSD. Bridgestone S001 275's on the rear and you couldn't get off the line fast without traction control kicking in or tyre smoke. Light flywheel didn't help things.

For the most part the 90's had everything very well balanced.

I wouldn't put my life on an E39 taking a beating, id consider it with an E28 or E34. Some of the maybe lesser known things for the E34 Pro's Cheap, durable and easy to fix in nearly all areas Plug and play retrofits eg cruise control, obc etc Good performance - complexity ratio iS models weren't common as muck and you actually got you an LSD diff Con's M30 in the E34 would probably be in the top 3 worst BMW engines for mpg Every M30 ive owned has blown a head gasket but they are so cheap as easy to do (all 300,000-500-000km cars that still ran strong) Dead on center steering feel from new but awesome feel when not in middle Wiper arms have always seem to have rubbed on the hood at some point

Never go full fast food menu photos