Eagle

Id replace the chain tensioner for piece of mind but i doubt many would replace the guides unless they were an issue.

Yep that's why carbs are still around, personally i generally view the 80-90's as providing the best balance of things. No question newer models are better built due to technology but build quality\built to last\longevity aren't usually priorities these days- environmental laws, emissions, safety standards, rising costs, more profits etc etc have seen to that. Poverty spec or otherwise a brand new E30 vs E90, im sure the E30 would trump it in fit\finish dept. Besides the dash they generally have held up very well given their age. E90's are and will suffer everywhere from the typically BMW plastic failures and they still got 10+ years to catch the E30.

1M probably would but the rest i highly doubt it. They don't possess the qualities a M-tech E30 has.

Looks like something Holden would design. Still looks better than a 5 series GT.

I soaked mine in white vinegar for a few days which removed everything. Then got them zinc coated for $1 each locally.

Yep

I never judge a car on k's myself, its just a number at the end of the day, how its been treated over the years is what matters..Chances are higher that more of the original parts have been replaced in that time compared to a ~200,000 example which would be probably be on tired\old suspension etc anyway. Age is also a factor here not just k's. Personally id view and inspect it before writing it off.. These are all old cars with many owners so you never know whats they are like until you see them. For whats its worth at least half a dozen 80-90's BMW's ive owned had over 300,000km and ive got no regrets. I made sure i got them for a good price and they had strong engines are transmissions. I never mind doing a bit of suspension work (which is usually required). E46 would be cheaper to repair also esp suspension wise.

ET20 Yeah kinda of want to keep them but no space + no car worth putting them on.

17x8 with 72.5 bore Centers repainted, bolts replated, BBS valves, lips repaired & polished (some existing imperfections that aren't obvious of which i can email photos of) Not a showroom finish but are in good condition and look tidy Never seen a set for sale but say $1600 as per rules.

Yeah M43 or bust if you going with the 4 cylinders Parents have owned their E46 318is with M43 engine for nearly 100,000km. One of the slowest cars on the road but as above are quite reliable and very easy to work on being a older design, They wouldn't have spent more than $1500 on parts since owning. DISA valve was the biggest expense ($300, was $600 for the dealer) The 6 cylinders are a nice motor but more flaws so more potential $ to spend. The layout of the cooling system and intake system is terrible and makes working on the engine a lot harder than they should be. My V12 is nicer to work on.

Haven't driven a 3.5L manual but the couple of autos ive driven were lackbuster, only difference i felt compared to the M54 3L was reduced torque availability. 4.4L would be mandatory unless you dropping in something special.

Never seen a complete one myself but RealOEM etc will deliver if you want to empty your wallet. Unless you planning on taking the engine out its not very practical anyway.

What wrong with M54 engine? Once you replace everything made of plastic and rubber they are fine...for a while anyway.

and E38 V12's aren't exactly uncommon. Trying to think what it reminded me of then i remembered - http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1369826963.htm

Still probably rocking 20 yr old fluids and rubber

The same reason the coolant temp warning only comes on once you have actually cooked the engine

Being a touring its probably not as popular but a tidy well sorted E34's are increasing in price like other older machines.

Personally i can't stand blue hoses in any engine bay, so tacky.

Depends on what exactly is wrong cosmetically. If the paint\panel are in poor condition then i wouldn't bother myself, as a good examples can be had for <5k. If its just interior plastics etc then parts are available easy enough. Comes down to how much you want to spend really

Yeah i get 9.5-10L at 120kph. Diff ratio and thermostat are probably the main contributors in this case.

As above you kinda expect some suspension wear and\or paint\panel imperfections unless its owned by someone who cares for them. Shame that the engine appears to be neglected tho, no excuse not to replace a $30 thermostat. Consumption on the open road should be at least 10l\100km if everything is working ok. Power wise they should give you a decent tug once you get the rpm up, they are more of top end power motor. Im guessing the tyres he put on it were the cheap as possible type, which is probably one of the factors is inferior handling, 17"\18" rims with decent tyres and non worn suspension goes along way.

Being a non long wheel base is a good thing in my books, no SLS to worry about and the 7 has ample rear leg room anyway. Even if you got it for $500 and didnt fix anything your fuel bill will reach the purchase price in no time. My old E32 730i was terrible for economy considering how slow it was, my V12 isn't much worse on the open road and around here in Hamilton.

Interior is pretty bad but plenty of yuck BMW ones like this. While I wouldn't buy one I don't mind the styling and they aren't bad cars per se Reckon my V12 would beat it in a rolling drag tho

Indeed but I still rate the m62 and m60 the superior overall engines.

Worn vanos seals robbing power is a issue on most. Most non vanos 4.4l pull much better than the TU I've driven and still have good top end. Also proven to make more power. Then you extra emission's setup, water cooled alternator etc