Neal

Box finished, Front baffle surround removable so subwoofer can be removed for track days etc.

Chorus completed install today. on 30/10 M/bits plan. Marked improvement over the ADSL2 14/.5 M/bits before.

Looking good. Enjoy !

All good then, it's when the motors start playing up , lock , won't unlock , stay on that the become an issue. System reads in locking and unlocking, interior ultrasonic sensor, boot tilt sensor , bonnet switch sensor. One thought , my e36 alarm would go off randomly at home. Turned out to be the wife's overloaded handbag pressing against one of the alarm remotes set / unset . If this was pressed for around 5 seconds it would set off the panic alarm. Check where your keys are.

Cat5e will support 1 gig @ 90 meters plus connections , it's cat 5 that is 100 m/bit over 100 meters. Not too fused with cat6 , can't see using 10gige over 30 meters spec for a couple of decades at least and it doesn't quite have the Bend radius of cat5e which will suit the install.

Also check that none of your central locking motors are playing up.

One of these http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/category...oid-Integration

Had the fibre installed, nice tidy job by the techs. Small problem of a 20 Metre gap between fibre termination point in garage and office upstairs were my network terminates / media servers are etc. Chorus hadn't received a custom install order for cat5 termination away from OTN. Call back Telecom ,very understanding , but due to Wellington earthquake will take time to get chorus techs back to complete install. Will mean another day at home.

Having this installed Monday , found this article which explains it well. The fibre can sometimes be blown through the existing telephone line tube or they can boar under the existing driveway.

Head unit will also give an indication. Some had Sony's HU with built in amps like the NZ new E36's ( rebadged xr u550s). Wife's Jap 96 328i had the 3 way front system which the gear looks like Philips oem, But I changed the head unit and added a 4 change amp and went two componets. Placed the crossovers under the dash but left the door speakers / wiring alone. Either way it wouldn't be hard to tap into the wires coming from the amp. Raj of Street sounds owned a e36 325i coupe as a demo car a number of years back. Knows his e36's.

Check out the link in terms of getting the door cards off. http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f92/e3...o-doors-t19986/ Consider putting the tweeters on the dash in the corners by the windscreen. Have done this on a couple of E36s which gives a good sound stage and pulls the sound up and forward.

These would sound better and you can add more power later http://www.ebay.com/itm/SE50-BOSTON-ACOUST...ae0&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/CT25BM02-BMW-3-SER...=item256b558919 You may find that the SE60 version may fit as well , but would pay to check. If so ebay search for 165mm e46 speaker adaptors

160 mm mid base at bottom of door. Sits in smaller enclosure area. What are you looking for in terms of sound / budget ?

The M3 ticked over 77,777km today.

Lots space invaders as a kid plus some martial arts training which may have a bearing on hand reaction time. Never tried the karate kid thing But you are right , end of the day I'm only an average driver and would need to learn a lot before doing a 8:22 in a car. APT , how's the search going ?

6 taps in 432 milliseconds or 65 - 75 milliseconds per gear change for a 40 y/o cough plus human on SMG paddles. Remember , with SMG you don't need to deal with that antiquated knob on the end of that level to your left that requires movement of your whole arm. Just paddles that only need to move 4-6 mm per selection. try your reaction time here a double click is down two gears.

Brilliant , temped by the "Dark Side" ..... repeat after me .... I want an SMG ..... I want an SMG ........ Got mine checked out at one of the Auckland dealers. Be sure to talk with the person that looks it over where ever you go. Will get better insight that via a report.

Great that it was something like this. Any one of the three wires mentioned stops the tuner from powering up. Having 2 + 4 speaker setup in the rear running Bass / mid bass should help to fill in the bottom end. Like the idea of the drivers being in the cabin rather than via air holes in boot or via transfer function inherent in cars.

another way of displaying a remote unit http://www.radar-mirror.com/

Priceless , one of those cars I hope to own again one day !

Paul , you could do the m track mode button retrofit depending on abs controller if you fitted the wheel. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=371119

That looks to be in great condition , roughly at the same level when sold mine in 1989 . Retired couples Sunday car ?

try these for a start First do a visual check on the connector pins to your tuner and make sure the pins and the connector are seating correctly. If it doesn't clamp down properly this could be the source of the issue. (Which tuner do you have ? ) I'd check the 12v dir , 12v ACC power feeds at the Tuner connector first and then the earth connection . If voltage not present then this will be the issue or if no connection to ground. Next would be the ibus signal wire. The voltage at the ibus should fluctuate between 0 to 12 volts . get someone to press the on / off button quickly a number of times . The tuner should be seeing the data signal that is telling it to turn off / on. If not the data signal isn't making it thru to tell the turner to switch on / off

I wish I'd taken my own advice when I started on rebuilding a mini so hopefully can provide some insight. The idea was to rebuild to a price , learn a bit about mechanics. To make a budget limit and to work within it. Instead I've got carried away with possibilities and have put quite considerable amounts into acquiring parts, having body resprayed , building silly spec turbo engine etc. I'm at the point price wise where some of the trademe e36 M3' with cage would have been in my price range. Instead , I've got a way to go and at the end of the day I'll end up with a nice turbo'd mk1 mini. Where I went wrong. I thought I could do the car for roughly $7-8 k Engine and transmission owes me roughly $7k. It will make 130-170hp depending on boost , or about the same as a s/h $1200 jap 1300 turbo engine. Brought a body for rare cooper s brakes .... $2k has become $6 painted as I'm using this shell Add glass , rubbers , new lights , cooper chrome , drop fuel tank , wiring , cert the shell will be closer to $8.5 k $2k for wheels and tyres , $1k for shocks / suspension mods , Seats will add another $1.5k and it goes on and on. When finished it will more than likely be a car I'll keep for as log as I can drive. The lost opportunity however has been the money that could have purchased something greater not to mention that the car isn't drivable yet. Do the Maths and be realistic about time. I know a lot of people like myself that start projects with good intentions , but take years and $$$ to finish. Bitter sweet really. Do the $ & time sums on your M3 for resto, or just get the rust done and enjoy it for what it is.

Back to APT If you try an SMG get the owner to set Auto Mode to position 2 and manual mode to position 4 which are both good road setting. You'll get an idea of what the SMG is about. mode 2 is more auto like and mode 4 is more brisk manual change and is great for every day driving. Remember not to lift off the throttle like you would on a manual otherwise you'll think the system is jerky and crap. Modes 5 & 6 are quick and more suited to track work and at higher throttle settings will put considerable load on gear train and rear subframe on the shift. I tend to do a slight throttle off on the change to avoid this. On the down shift the system is great. Shifting down to 2nd at 80 kmh under hard braking is not a problem without having to worry about rear wheel lock ups. System does well to match downshift revs. The SMG also have launch control which holds the rpm at a reasonable level for quick take offs. Seems to be a good balance of brisk take off verse lighting tyres up. However , too many of these may cause the subframe mount point tearing that is well advertised. @ Dave, us SMG owners love to take the p out of tractor style gearbox shift action that manual drivers have to put up with. See the light brother ......