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Everything posted by Neal
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The rear seat card has a factory 2 inch mid range. I'm going to try this location for mounting the rear tweeters (Also using PPI 355Cs two ways in the rear) The tweeter can with a number of mounting cups. I've installed the version that tilts the tweeter up slightly. Old and new
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Running 14 Gauge cable to all speakers. Want to leave the old cable intact so the car can be returned to factory if need be. Getting door connectors to accept new speaker wire is a bit of a misson. Took a while to remove trim panels , glovebox , side trims etc. The connector on the car interior comes apart and the door speaker connector can be removed. This allows room for speaker wire to be added. Audio is contained within the left hand rectangle Speaker wire through first connector Door side connector is not as straight forward. However , the connector can be taken apart and carefully trimmed to remove the audio section. Then a case of threading it all together. Old fashion washing line is great to use as a pilot wire to pull the speaker wire through the connectors and door garter. Door card ready to re-attach.
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Mid Bass & Crossover install Used a combination of the mid bass mounting ring and a e46 to 5 1/4 adaptor ring PPI crossovers are huge ! just managed to fit the cross over in with 3mm to spare on depth. Used hot glue to mount which can be removed later if needed Added wiring and door card finished
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Managed to get time again this week to work on the car. Started on the front door builds. Going 2 way passive rather than the 3 way active factory system. While this sound like a downgrade the quality of the two way PPi 355CS have greater clarity and headroom. These speakers will have 100 rms on tap from the amp with a low pass filter of 80 hz. I'm trying the factory door locations this time for tweeter rather than my usual dash / pillar location. Factory doors & Speakers Tweeter install
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Coffee in one hand while doing lipstick with the other.
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I'd be inclined to use a combo of a bit of Dremel trimming / sanding the CF weave and then build up a few layers resin with light sanding in between. You've got nothing to loose other than time and a small pot of resin. Repair kits are roughly $30 used on eday. If it doesn't work out then replace with new. Worked well on a couple of my Ducati CF parts that were looking untidy . Check YouTube cf bike frame repairs for the jist of how to repair.
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Could you make any sense out of the WDS on this one ? My guess is that you'll also need to add the hedgehog looking resistor into the aircon airbox. It controls the fan speed based on temperature settings on the auto panel. Also of note is the resistor is unreliable in its first form so look for the revised part numbers. BMW Heater Fan speed resistor 64116923204
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Will need one if those dam hedgehog resistor thingies . Need the dexterity of a cat to fit one. I've had three e36s . One had manual aircon which was fine at 225k . The other two had dual climate and either the hedgehog resistor failure or the diode issue within the first 150k of running. The manual system is basic, but IMO is more reliable on the e36 and the dual zone isn't worth it .
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E39 Electrical Gremlins.. GM, Ignition Switch or Grounding Issues?
Neal replied to MISS BM's topic in Maintenance
I'd start with the basics . Has the battery drop a cell ? . Many of the modules listed have a minimum voltage before they will work reliably . -
The 4s (wife's phone) is ok on 7 but it's not as snappy as 5s. I wouldn't buy a 4s now. Getting a bit old. Kind of liked the idea of a windows phone. Pervious versions have been unstable and hard to support, I like the idea and interface of 8 / 8.1 and brought myself a MS surface tablet. Was a great device until 8.1 updates come through. Browser is hardly usable . Blackberry is an interesting one. Had a go with z10 . My concern with blackberry that if no one buys them they be out of operating cash over the next year or so which would see them in the Motorola situation. At work my it team seem to have drawn a line down the middle. Half on androids , half on iOS
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Happy wife = happy life. Get her a 5s 128 gig and be done with it. Don't get caught out on a $400 Andriod experement unless it's for yourself. If she's like my wife I wouldn't even consider moving a icon let alone swapping os systems. The fingerprint unlock is the game changer in my book. No mucking around with typing or dodgy voice biometric . With Apple iOS and app upgrades are seemless. Also not sure about the earlier 5 verse 5s comments. I've had both . They are the same size and the cases are almost identical bar the lightning connector. Never had any issues with the 5.
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Suspect there are less mk2 deluxe models around than coopers. Going to appreciate well. That's mint inside .
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15 mm drill bit through the wing on each of the spot welds should do the trick. Then a quick cleanup of what sits below. Good project there. Like the mini deluxe hudcaps / rear windows. It's amazing how well the old seats / door cards can clean up.
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Sounds like your metro calipers have the same shelf duty as mine then . Mine where on a whim buy when I was considering going down the path of vtec. However, they are heavy items and I'd rather go down the wilwood / vented disc combo if in need of monster brakes. Have driven race 850 mini7's with drum set ups and they can stop quite well when done properly. The harder linings will take a bit more initial pedal pressure before they bite , but are less prone to fading compared to stock. Like the combo your doing. Should look good slightly lowered on hilos. Would like to see pics as you progess.
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Ignore 540-blue , obviously he's become brain damaged from all those noisy Ltwins & V8's he's owned. Mind you he does have a point on remaining hydrolastic minis . Prices on the uk are going up on these. With the rollcage if you going for that period rally look then fine , you'll need to consider how close the bars are to driver / passenger sitting . Check out the low volume cert website. With a rear only setup you are still legally able you use the car every day rather than a full cage which is motorsport cert / reg only. If you going to use the car for the odd bit of motorsport then the rules become harder. The cage will come under considerable suritiny . If going this way take your car down to automation motorsport in levin. Their knowledge on cages for racing minis is second to none. Also remember that large wheels on minis are largely fashion item on a mini and they will handle better with 10's or 12's . With the metro 4 pot and a 13 inch wheel you'll be adding quite a bit of extra weight . With the price of alloy based calipers being what they are consider running a 10x6 or 12 x6 rim with either kad or mini sport caliper on 7.5 or 8.4 rotors. It will have more than enough braking power to lock the fronts at will. I'm running standard s discs / minifins on the club car (10x5.5 and 165/70/10 )and not expecting to run out of braking.
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Another informed tractor drifter. ;-)
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Seems each time I talk with a E46 M3 SMG owner I'm finding that we all seem to like different settings for the SMG shift patterns and speeds. Looks like there are a number of owners & ex owners on here. M3 Power has suggested some settings previously for excellent technical reasons , (3 manual , 3 auto) So, what's your settings and why ? here's mine Manual mode 4 , DSC on ( car is in this mode the majority of the time) Seems similar to a quick manual gear change Auto Mode 2, DSC on Only used in stop / start motorway , seems to change up at 2,200 rpm with light throttle with smoothish changes track days / driver training Manual mode 6 , DSC off , sport throttle setting, but avoid full throttle changes 1-2
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If they are like the type 1's they should have acs on the front face. I doubt a refurb would remove it.
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The 318is had all the M gear. NZ got a few 4 door version during the e36 model run out (1997-). Engine way 4 valve 1900, They had full leather, Alpina style alloys , M3 body kit and a colour range that looked it was from the BMW individual range.
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Google hit counts are great like that. 86000 e46 m3 build yet 250k of them are having smg problems ? Its a Shame you've scared yourself buying one. You've missed out on owning a great car.According to the internet I'm going to die next week from 2,500,000 million different diseases, the sis is watching all my bimmersport postings and there is an alien air bass deep down south At the cricket last night. Across the group we'd owned 5 smg cars. One had the dreaded smg $30 relay problem. Of the four m3s none had the subframe problem.That was it. I guess the good thing about the smg fud is we'll be able by these cheaper than the manuals in future Seriously though, if anyone is in the market for an smg m3 talk to people that have owned them. If you go by the internet it sounds like they are all failing smg pumps its not like that at all.
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I have two manual cars with foot activated clutches in the garage , one is 50 years old and the other is 48. The world have moved on and evolved with advances from motorsport. I do enjoy relics from the past such as traditional manuals in a nostalgic kind of way. But after having done a few track days with an e46 M3 SMG there is no way I'd go back given the choice. Back on topic , I also like the colour of the P*ss Yellow M3
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Smg launch control is brutal on the rear end in first as 1/10 of a second shift mode in 1, 2 & 3 on full throttle. Not something a careful car owner would do more than once. No doubt why the sub frame will fail. Similar to side stepping a clutch at 4k for those that use the tractor style interface know as a manual. ;-)
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Was working in a highrise in Wgtn. Wasn't as strong as two of the Sedon Quakes in Wellington but we certainly got under desks ! Apparently the Quake had 10% of the energy that struck Chch. Sent staff home to be with families etc. Another day in the Shaky Isles.
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Love the videos of this and the E36 judd V8 car he drove. B&lls out hill climber and always went hard out. This is my fav form of motorsport.