Neal

Have you placed anything on the rear parcell shelf and covered up the gps antenna ? Sorry , not sure where it would be on Touring

I'd buy that example if I didn't already have a lower km version. Mind you at standard ride height I only just make it down my driveway with a couple of mm to spare.

This X6m is now for sale. This car has had one fastidious owner since he brought it and is in as new condition. Details here http://www.bmwclub.co.nz/marketplace/ads/bmw-x6m-2010/

Or a Ducati

Follow the youtube link and download the guy's mp3. It's a good track to check for rattles for the box and the car and tunning in the sub gains etc. Watch the volume though as at 600 rms you'll be pushing the DB's and don't want to run into clipping.

There's a number of BMW bike owners here ,secret is out now boys

I'm still bitter and twisted after seeing you could buy a new USA version for $52,000 NZD in Feb What is it with the price of rhd examples down under ?

Theory of the amps is interesting,(built a few mosfet based hifi amps over the years and repaired too many to remember) yet much of car audio amps are geared towards high current output stages rather than using more voltage and running hgher impedance drivers. Even BMW have been dropping 2 ohm mid bass drivers in the cars over the last decade. Doesn't pay to have online aurgments with 3 pedals as these are often very techincally sound( it's also easy to be taken out of context without writting a book rather than a quick post). But with car audio I've had 25 years of dropping sound systems into BMW's and a couple of SQ trophies to boot. What I've learnt has been through a quite a number of systems , some have been gear towards lots of $$$ other have been mates with modest budgets. What I've found with Sub bass is the driver has the largest factor in the quality of sub bass and the amplifier is of less importance. However , power corrupts and in my experence I've been getting the better reaults with high power class D amps running low impendance drivers than I did with mid powered class A/B amps running higher impedance drivers worth a few $k with exotic onboard componets. Be assured that you are on the right track with what you are doing. Neal PS , if anyone if after BMW size midbases I brought another pair of these recently. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PPI-355CS-PRECISIO...=item1c269ff104 These used to retail for around $1200 nz when they came out on the mid 2000's and still hold there own now.

Went the otherway from re001 to re11. Fantastic grip and roadholding and very predictatable on the edge of traction. (track day). Not as much comfit as Ps2 but better in every other regard. I can imagine that the Ps3 may close the gap between grip of re001 verse re11.

For us ? how kind

Now your talking ! 6, Spanner check anything with bolts in and around the boot , check every few months (had bumper come loose once) 7, Check your rear fill speakers once you have the sub running. They may tear themselves apart with the energy of the sub 8, Take off numberplate and add double sided foam to back of plate. Then re-attach You may not need item 5 with different amp

hence me suggesting running amp in bridged mode with an 8 ohm load being better than running stereo mode running dual 4 ohm load. 3 pedals will be able to work this out when he has thought about this more deeply as most car amps run blt mode for bridging (hint, Think about the mono'd sine wave through a bridged amp sharing two power supplies and the recovery time needed to recharge the output stages of the bridge + amp and - amp under load) 8 ohm speaker load becomes the bonus for damping

With a single pre-out you could run an RCA splitter and feed the ff150 & a latter sub amp. Run the rear fill speakers off the factory head unit. I ran a setup like this a while back on the wife’s car and it produced good sound. If you’re going to the trouble of replacing the head unit look for 3 set pre-out version.(front / Rear / Sub) Possibly look at versions with built in time delay (some sony HU's for e.g) so you can offsite the driver’s side midbass & tweeter. This will give a stereo image that’s sounds more like sitting "middle stage" rather than "middle right stage" You can get good sound out of factory e30 location for midbass drivers. As bass duties will be handled by the sub you don't need much of an enclosure size to produce midbass frequencies (80 hz up) . Look at mounting tweeters on each side of the dash by the windshield to pull stereo image up. The factory rear nokia speakers are ok for rear fill so don't worry about replacing those. Alternator wise you should be fine with the amp you have. If you are doing lots of short trips in the winter with headlights, wipers, rear screen demister on than give your battery a chance to recover from starting the engine before driving around with bass heavy music. One of my e30 systems was around the 210 watt rms mark . When it was cranked you'd see a slight dimming of dash lights to the music but nothing really to worry about. I did however fit the highest capacity battery that would fix under the bonnet. I only started having voltage issues (e36) at around the 600 rms point with a class A/B amp. The system could drain a battery in about 15 minutes if you were caught in traffic using low revs (not much alternator charging) Ironically I had less issues when I change out the amp to multi amp 1000 rms total , The difference was run a class D sub amp which was far more electrically efficient. That circuit looked fine for de-thump btw. In terms of running the Sub with only one voice coil used , you can try without issue. I did this on an earlier system where the sub amp was 4 ohms min. I ended up running both voice coils in series as the bass seemed to be more controlled with better definition than just running one coil. No harm in trying different combinations.

Congratulations , perhaps replace those house heat pumps with diesel versions so Son can will be used to the smell Mind you he'll probably be driving high performance electric cars by the time he comes of driving age.

Keep the sub and run it in series (8 ohm load) In reality there is not much difference in SPL between 100 rms verse 150 rms. If anything your give your amp an easier load to run and still should get reasonable bass volume. Save up for a 2 ohm stable sub amp ( or some 2 channel amps will run 2 ohm load in bridge mode) look for at least 300 rms into 2 ohms. Use your FF150.2 to power your front speakers later on. In terms of running the earth to the battery verse to central point you will have no problem using the body as an earth with the power you are running. However , if your running amps with 800 rms or more run the amp earths to the battery or consider the battery to chasis size earth cable. BMW's are fairly generous with battery earth size cable but you do need to consider what an additional (short term) 200 amps could do the the cable with high power audio systems. espically when starting the car with the stereo pumping.

http://community.invisionpower.com/resourc...-templates-r159 check ip.board mobile , looks like it already has mobile skins built in.

Have seen self tapping drain plugs for the same issue on other bands of cars (Mini) check link to see if you can find something in a similar size. Less chance of getting swarf entering the gearbox than using helicoil. http://www.bizrate.com/self-tapping-drain-plug/

Build one of these instead it, would make a change from usual NZdrift mag aka NZPC. http://stayclassyatlanta.com/gnarly-bmw-2002-rat-rod/

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....c=39209&hl=

Then you should also be able to use the standard Alpine 6 CD cart as a replacement. (you could buy that stacker for the cart) Or you can go here and buy an alpine one for $30 usd or with same thing BMW logo for $50 usd. http://www.nextag.com/cd-changer-cartridge/compare-html One of the bmw parts supplier on here might also be able to help

Same shape as this one ? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-467384504.htm

What about finding someone in NZ that shaves dot tyres for racing. They maybe able to remove enough of the tread to line up with the flat spot ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=playe...p;v=RSDUcKw-GOk

Check this post and check your engine block stamp for engine type and size (if the engine has been swapped etc) http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=7295 Enjoy you BMW !

What if your partner where to check up on the discussion and checked out your posts ? Sounds like a week on the sofa to me