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Showing results for tags 'M20'.
Found 30 results
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Hi all, after a replacement sump plug for an E12 520, it's the early plug that was on m10/m20 and used across e9/12 and maybe E24? Just checking before I try the dealer as the last one was ex Singapore. As per pic. Cheers!
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Finally finished my turbo project, tuned up the weekend just been. All certed and road legal, this things a street beast that scares me to say the least haha. M20B25 stock block rebuilt and balanced Mild Turbo cam regrind HD rockers Garrett GT3582R Tial MVR 44mm and 50mm BOV Megasquirt 2 running wasted spark 282kw/378hp 531nm torque Tuned by Lin @ CDM Tauranga ...before
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As we're always making it easier for our customers - we've compiled a "quick reference guide' of our SKU numbers for members - focusing on earlier, mostly E30 Parts we can supply. This can make things easier for members when calling us, or emailing us about parts. As always, 15% discount applies to Bimmersport members (mention 'Bimmersport' when enquiring!) It can be downloaded from our website link, below: https://www.euroitalianparts.com/e30-bmw-classic-
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New unused, performance cam for M20 application. New Shrick 284/272 camshaft New Shrick sport spring set Purchased from Germany for further details on spec https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/Camshafts/Schrick-Performance-Camshaft-E30-325i-E34-525i-M20-284.html $1200
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New SHRICK 284/272 performance camshaft to suit m20b20, b23,b25 Nice bump in bower band, noticeable change in idle (lumpy) Purchased from BAR-TEK Motorsport Germany Still in box. $900. could potentially be interested in a trade for larger degree cam. Pickup Pukekohe
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2.8 Crank, 2ltr rods and machined bolt for sale. Bought these from Ray a few years back https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1514648119
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Looking to buy an engine & gearbox for E30 M325i. Preferably after: M20B25 Ideally the engine will be good enough to drop in and wire up, also don't mind refreshing gaskets.Require Loom and Ecu Also interested in stroker variants (2.7,2.8,2.9). Getrag 260 gearbox. Located in AKL willing to travel for the right setup.
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Hey Team Desperately looking for a 3 pin M 1.3 TPS to check against the one in the car. If you also happen to have a plug that would be mint! It is now not starting but is getting fuel and spark so I am going down the trouble shooting route Cheers
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So I've had my e30 for almost a year now, It's finally time I try to address the high idle (1000-1200rpm, when warm in neutral). I have replaced the obvious stuff (Intake boot and a visibly cracked hose). But I noticed when doing my timing belt and water pump that on the distributor there was a vacuum port with no line connected to it. I'm guessing to advance the distributor timing. Idk what took me so long, but I'm finally going to plumb that back up, I looked on realOEM and found the section I'm looking at but cannot figure out what the vacuum line goes to. I haven't taken the cold side off to have a proper look but it's not immediately obvious. Here's the diagram. If you look at where #15 connects to the distributor, I believe that's what is in my picture. It goes to #12 but #12 isn't listed on realOEM, so I have no idea what it is. So, What is #12 and where in the engine bay would I find it? Here's my image: My vacuum lines aren't quite routed the same, and it doesn't appear that I have the second vacuum port on the distrubutor (shown in the realOEM diagram), but I haven't looked closely either. Also, for the jetronic experts out there. Is it likely that this leak could cause this big of a jump in idle revs? I could always just bite the bullet and pay for it to be smoke tested. As always, thanks for the help! You guys have saved my ass once before. -
I've isolated the source of my disappointment. The rear (aftermarket) muffler on my 525e is, positively depressing. It sounds terrible, doesn't fit perfectly enough for me, rattles and looks less than ideal. This needs fixing. I've taken it off, and it sounds amazing without a rear muffler. However it has the occasional nasty vibration and is according to my phone, too loud. But man it sounds good (even for a lowly eta). So I'd like something that retains the character of a straight pipe, but lowers the volume and returns the touch of class a classic BMW should have. And some nice tips wouldn't go amiss either (got a swanky hartge dual to oval tip I'd like to try). I'm happy to buy individual parts and design/weld/asssemble any pipe work.
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Looking a shifter carrier for a Getrag 260 going on a M20B20. Don't need the selector rod or the shifter, just after the carrier, but if it comes with them that's fine. Preferably in Auckland or Hamilton but also don't mind freight.
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Loads of M20 stuff : Inlet manifold 2.0 still with injectors and rail $40 Inlet manifold 2.5 painted black $40 Inlet manifold 2.5 vapour blasted$80 Exhaust manifold 2.5, 3 stud $50 Rocker covers and other covers vapour blasted Camshafts, all good with no obvious wear, not sure if they are 2.0 or 2.5. Apparently they vary so they will need to be checked $60 crank, and other pulleys Flex plate for auto, early motronic with the trigger on it $50 Crank 2.7 H81 $100 Crank 2.5 H75 $100 Bearings, new standard size, fits many engines, M20s amongst them. rod CR6640CP mains MB7039AM Part number CR6640CP (STD SIZE) Mainly used for BMW 6 cylinder M20 M50 M52 M54 2.0-3.0 petrol engines and M21 M51 M57 2.4-3.0 diesel engines. Size: STD Position: connecting rod bearings Pairs/Quantity: 6 (complete set for one engine) Crankshaft diameter: 44.991/44.973mm $150 Rods, 2 sets, 2.5 135mm. One set maybe M50 rather than M20, a bit lighter. $100 Valves and valve springs 2.0 and 2.5 $5 and $2 each price as required, make an offer for multiple parts. Location south auckland.
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So I bought my first car on the week end, but it needs a bit of work... It's a 1985 Bronzit 525e that is half way through a manual swap, it's got manual windows and sunroof but that just means less things to break (I hope). It's a bit of a mess at the moment, most of the center console is taken apart and there is no gearbox or driveshaft in it. The previous owner has done most of the electronics and put the pedal box in.
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Time for a clean out. Generally M20B25 unless stated otherwise. Starting with the bigger stuff: 2.0 litre 731 head. Legal for race series. Hardness tested and straight Valves and valve springs 2.0 and 2.5 Camshafts M20 2.5 block. Bores still have hone marks $100 2.7 crank, may need a grind, marked on one big end my measurements 44.69, 44.72, 44.72 / 59.73, 59.66, 59.65, 59.64 59.77 59.66 $100 2.5 Crank H75 does not need a grind, 59.95 and 44.94 $100 rods, 135mm ( 2.5 ) injectors , M20B25 520i, 325 and 320 exhaust manifold, 3 bolt other small stuff like rocker shafts Bearings, King for standard crank mains and big ends, fits 2.0, 2.5, 2.7 $100 all in south auckland
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1989 320i auto sedan jap import , SA built low ks , so lots of nice tidy bits hartge alloys 021433600 [email protected]
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Hi everyone The Getrag 260 that came with my car has the wrong bellhousing on it (m30 instead of m20), so I am looking to buy either a: Getrag 260 Getrag 265 Getrag 240 Getrag 245 ZF S5-16 All with either an m20 bellhousing or removable bellhousing and either the holes for the sensors or the ability to have the holes added. Also a matching driveshaft and shift linkage would be good too. EDIT: and the cross member Thanks
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Getting near the end of my parts collection for 24 valve swap. I'm after the following parts: M20 driveshaft M20 flywheel M20 TOB M20 starter Recommendations of NZ suppliers for M20 clutches? EXEDY? Can potentially trade parts if you're not fussed about cash. Cheers
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Hi team, I'm after six standard conrods from a M20B20 or M20B23. Preferably in 130mm length. Cheers!
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Up for sale is my '85 E30. I'v seen the car i want and just need this gone before I can purchase the next one. Im around $4,750 but as always ONO. A quick sale, is a good sale. Details are as follows: - '85 323i NZ New (Black Plates) with 23X,XXXks on the body (dunno how long odometer wasn’t working before I fixed it) - M20B25 + Getrag 260 swap done last year, running motronic 1.3. - During the swap, headgasket, rear main seal, clutch etc were all installed new. Driveshaft UJs were all serviced & balanced - Oil change and plugs 2 weeks ago - E36 steering rack - Lowered on H&R's - Brand new tyres all round - Genuine 14" Basketweaves all round (including the spare!) - Has colour matched genuine M-Tech 1 rear, and skirts (waiting to be installed) - Rego till next June - WOF just ran out - Sub in the boot - Upgraded speakers al round - Headunit with aux input - M Stitch Handbrake and Gear boot - CUPHOLDERS! - Voltmeter - Hella headlights (with a cool light up switch) - Yellow fogs & high beams - Parking sensors (Okay, so maybe its just a towbar) - Roof racks - Oil cooler - Sunroof with manual crank - Front 2 windows have been converted to manual cranks - Rear windows are electric - Dash mat - Euro Grille - Battery relocated to the boot - 2nd internal boot light - Airhorn! - E34 'Big' tool kit - Smiley headlights - Clear coat is a bit gone on the bonnet (have a spare in red which needs a respray) - Cassette Holders - Comes with a box of spare trim pieces, clutch, new oil filter etc - Could do with a distributor and rotor change (have the parts) Tried to be honest and list as many things as I could think of. Please PM me if you have any questions at all though! Interested in an early E36 Manual Coupe with cash either way if you know of any. Located in Auckland
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Is there anyone in NZ that rebuilds Bosch AFMs? I have read the stuff online re bending the arms to track across the PCB over fresh material, but would prefer to use someone who does this kind of work regularly and can make sure it meets factory tolerances, settings etc. e.g. something like what this guy in US does: http://www.bavrest.com/air-flow-meters.html As a side question/alternative is anyone here running the latest Miller MAF for the M20 on the standard chip that comes with it? I want to keep my car pretty much stock, but a MAF tickled my interest as a logical reliability and mild performance/economy upgrade, but with no other mods on the car I don't want to shell out for a custom chip. My concern about getting a standard chip is I'm guessing it would be tuned for US octanes.
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M20 731 cylinder head off m20b20. Was going to make a stroker for my eta but I have a full m30 conversion now so not going that way. $100. Will put photos up later. Pickup from One Tree Hill.
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Interested in doing converting my m20b27 to motronic 1.1. So I need the following parts: Crank Position Sensor & Bracket Toothed crank wheel Engine bay loom Cylinder Identification Sensor Oil Level Sender Oil Pressure Switch And probably an ECU, but I haven't decided what I'm doing ECU wise yet
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Hi my fellow NZ'ers! I am wishing to convert my auto E34 525i with the M50B25TU (Vanos) into a manual. I am finding it difficult (not suprisingly) to find the getrag 250 + conversion kit that came standard on the late model 525i's with the M50 engine. The earlier models with the M20 engine have the getrag 240's or 260's (or zfSG310?) i believe and these seem to be more available. I've heard that the M20's gearbox bolts up perfectly to the M50 but due to the M50's tilt the box is on a 10degree tilt and therefore doesn't align with the gearbox mounts. Is anyone familiar with the process required to modify the mounts to suit the older gearbox? Or even better, if you can buy these pre-made? Oor even BETTER, does anyone have a maual conversion kit for my M50 E34? Any help will be greatly appreciated! Cheers
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Hi Guys, So iv got a fully dressed '87-'88 M20B25 with loom and ecu, gearbox etc all with it lined up. The only problem now is the wiring from the C101 plug which is round and has 20 pins, to my rectangular C101 on the '85 323i. I have started to create a pinout chart which ill upload later tonight, theres just a few wires i am unsure where they should go? There is scarce information about 323i's on the internet, as they were Euro spec and well you know, if its not US spec then no one on any of their forums wants to know about it. I also need a bit of help as to what will go to the C104 plug (i understand this is for the cluster side of things). There is a round connection on the bulkhead by the passenger side, i know this isnt a C101 as i have an earlier car but i was wondering what it actually is. Any wiring help would be much appreciated. Ill upload my chart so far later on. This is the first time iv done anything near this intense mechnically, but thought id try my hand at it. I havent got the engine yet but will have it in a month, so i thought its best to prepare everything now so that its easier when i have everything. The 323i L-Jet wasnt the best starting place but its what i have to work with so ill do my best to make it work. If any of you guys are around Central/West Auckland, and know about the wiring id be real keen to have some help when the engine is dropped in. i HATE electrical systems and having not much experience doesnt really help my cause. Im sure with some help i can get this done successfully, so cheers for any help you can provide me with! Also i know the connector changes around the time this engine was built, so i will check again and confirm. This will probably be the same thread i ask lots of electrical questions over the time of the swap. Thanks!
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Hi Guys, I need an ignition coil for my '89 325i. I have one from my '85 323i, but i cross checked the part #'s on RealOEM and they dont match, so i thought its probably best to get the right part for the job. Part # is: 12131286087 if it matters. It can be used, just as long as its working okay. The closer to Blockhouse Bay, Auckland, the better! But dont mind shipping i guess. Cheers!
