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Guest FrantiC

e30 m20 turbo stroker project

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Bigger injectors will just be rich. Have you checked the timing is right yet?

If you block the wastegate, when the cert guy jumps on the throttle the first time he accelerates to 100kph to test the brakes, you'll get a hell of a fright as it boosts uncontrollably. It will be fun but not much good for the engine.

as above,plus could boost way higher then planned.boost climbs exponationally with rev's.

but it would be fun. ^_^ can you record it if you do decide to go this path?

like to know what happens

m

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as above,plus could boost way higher then planned.boost climbs exponationally with rev's.

but it would be fun. ^_^ can you record it if you do decide to go this path?

like to know what happens

m

And in HD if you can, Chur.

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Bigger injectors will just be rich. Have you checked the timing is right yet?

If you block the wastegate, when the cert guy jumps on the throttle the first time he accelerates to 100kph to test the brakes, you'll get a hell of a fright as it boosts uncontrollably. It will be fun but not much good for the engine.

Haha that would be priceless to watch! :D Forgot about the brake test, wonder how much they actually put their foot down? When I got my cert on the Integra he took me for a drive to show me what was wrong and he was pretty easy on the car... thats not to say that he wasnt when he first took it for a drive and I wasnt there lol...

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I'm sure most of them aren't that mean to the car, but the theory behind that test is that you need to be able to stop the car repeatedly from speed, and presumably they sort of account for the amount of power the car makes by accelerating harder. Having said that, when my 2002 was certed the first time, the certifier didn't exactly give it death (it wasn't fast anyway).

I heard a story about Ray William's 930 (specs here) being certified, no idea if its true - Ray was apparently driving and they were lined up on a short straight bit of road and the certifier explained the test. Ray said - shall I do it now, the cert guy said - nah need more room, Ray said - this'll do, followed by roooarr --- screeech --- roar --- screech - roar - screech. Done. Cert guy nearly crapped himself, apparently.

As I said, no idea if its true but since they do 100kph in 1st, its believable.

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Guest FrantiC

Yeah probably screamer pipe it later on I guess, May aswell do it once the right way to make sure I get the cert. Guy from palmy nth comes up and does them here, $500. If it has to re-check it costs more, unless it's minor things.

Was told I won't need driveshaft loops either..

Still can't it started.. Have not been able to successfully connect the ECU to a PC/laptop yet so can't manke any adjustments and check stuff out.. so yeh.

TBH i cannot be bothered with it anymore. Too late to turn back now though, even though I am regretting starting the project :S

Argh i dunno.

Edited by FrantiC

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what compression in psi are you getting??

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Guest FrantiC

what compression in psi are you getting??

Have not checked compression at all.. Don't have a compression tester thing.

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$35 from ya nearest supercheap, might show you whats wrong.

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Guest FrantiC

Might look into that then I guess.

Guy insists it is because he had a different engine setup and ran 19lb/s injectors it is dumping more than twice the req. fuel on startup and yeah i think that is possibly right as it just cranks and all you can smell is fuel and see puffs of black smoke when it coughs and fires for a second or 2.

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Crank the engine over then remove a spark plug, if it's overly wet then it's running rich, so much harder to diagnos as it's an aftermarket ECU!

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Could you drop the fuel pressure ? maybe just knock it back slowly until it runs and then from there you could adjust your fuel maps slowly and bring the pressure back up to keep everything nice and even ?

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Create a new map, and start from the beginning. Read the online manuals if you not sure on how to do this. I had mine idling pretty much immediately when I did this. much more trouble to use someone elses map completely as you dont know what they might have done differently, (however insignificant it might seem)

Also, maybe check that you injectors are the size they're supposed to be, take it to a fuel injectionion specialist and get them to do a flow rate on them. Some I brought from TM were half the rate they were supposed to be.

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I am using a stock 3.0bar FPR, Not an adjustable one.

Just got the drivers for the USB adapter, I am gonna try use it again later on, battery is still on charge from overnight so it will be strong. When I get back from course I am gonna do what the guy has told me and cut fuel req. in half and go from there.

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Oh and injectors are brand new Ford Racing 42lb (440cc) Green top bosch injectors.

Being Bosch and being brand new, i would love to think they are working as rated.

Oh well, More to come later on today......

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Hmm, Seems I was foolish to think that because there was voltage at the coil, there was a spark. Just gave it a crank and pulled a sparkplug. Soaked.

Left it on the exhaust flange and was not getting a spark while cranking. Checked voltage on the coil and I can't ever get 12V anymore on it. So now the problem is there is no power to the coil and no spark to start it......

:angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry:

EDIT*

(SORRY FOR MULTIPLE POSTING..)

Alright I was doing it wrong lol, There is 12.6V on the coil + to ground. Nothing ever between the + and - across the coil.

I can't remember how it works, Coil gets power and grounds through the ECU correct? I had my buzzer thingy between the coil ground and chassis and while cranking the coil never gets grounded so i think that is why I am not getting a spark. Now I need to figure out WTF is wrong :wacko:

What are common causes of no spark?

I have:

Checked all harness grounds are grounded.

Battery is charged and terminals connected tightly and cleanly.

Crank position sensor is plugged in (have tried switching the plug around).

Is there any fuses or relays I should look into? Otherwise time to do some research on Megasquirt.... eeeep.

Edited by FrantiC

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What's megatune showing while cranking?

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The fact that your getting SOME sort of smoke coming out of your manifold should suggest you are getting some sort of detonation and therefore spark right? Just noting that your battery also goes flat very fast?

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I'm no pro at any of this, maybe try a entire new battery, it is a good thing to replace if they keep going flat on a car anyway, I had problems with mine taking a bit to start and having to keep charging it and it definitely improved when I put a brand new battery in.

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Guest FrantiC

Cant get anything to show in megatune yet, It communictes with the ECU but I get the

"controller code version does not match signature in MSNS-extra.ini" error.

Trying to figure that out.. Need to adjust TPS, Coolant temp sensor settings and configure them. Go from there I guess, Just gotta find out what version of megatune I need..

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With that error does it say something like:

expected "MS1/extra format 029Y3****** (found in .ini file)

received "MSnS-Extra format 029q****** (found in controller)

Then you just gotta find the same version as your controller, Yeah?

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Yeah, That's the one. Can't find the right version though.. Pissing me off.

Apparently I need to hook up the coil through a coil ignitor box the guy gave me, which I thought was for the coil packs. But not sure, He said I will need to wire the box up to run the coil.

So yeppp.

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Going in for an exhaust start of next week..

All it needs and a slave cylinder.

Anyone able to help tell me how you wire in coil driver box to run a single coil? Looked at so many diagrams most guys are using multiple coils for wasted spark etc.

Need alot of megasquirt help if anyone here is well experienced!

p.s my camera is broke, so no more pics FTL! Luckily I have a video camera though.

Edited by FrantiC

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Well I'd expect wasted spark will have 3x ignition connections coming out of the ECU to the igniter box (one for each coil), while you only want one, so until you can get into Megatune to change the configuration I'm not sure its going to work even if you can wire it up right.

FWIW, I bought a pair of twin post coils and an ignitor box from a 4 cylinder 1993 Mitsi Lancer GDI for $34 from PickaPart, which is what I plan to use. I believe there are 6 cylinder GDI engines which a 3 coil setup?

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Well I'd expect wasted spark will have 3x ignition connections coming out of the ECU to the igniter box (one for each coil), while you only want one, so until you can get into Megatune to change the configuration I'm not sure its going to work even if you can wire it up right.

FWIW, I bought a pair of twin post coils and an ignitor box from a 4 cylinder 1993 Mitsi Lancer GDI for $34 from PickaPart, which is what I plan to use. I believe there are 6 cylinder GDI engines which a 3 coil setup?

I have twin post GM coils. Looked like too much work to get started wanted to try stock coil first but even that looks like a POS to setup..

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