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westy

The bastard child.

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Mine is very much made to fit, rather squeezed in! Took quite a while to get it, the A/C bits, the bonnet stay/strut, and the headlights to live in harmony in the same hole.. cut/shortened the outlet pipe to to the afm and trimmed the underside and also 'massaged' the body under it to get the inlet to clear the high beam.

IIRC the washer bottle is from an e34 with headlight wash? I just removed the headlight bottle. It fits perfectly in the gap between the air filter and the impact sensor for the airbags.

Pics might help you get some ideas

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Lol, you forget who you're talking to.

Anyway, if you thought my pics were a bit average, you outta see my vids.

Hmmm, you got both types of music - V8 *and* The Stone Roses ;)

w00t

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Good ear.

Anyway, nearly made it to the meet on Sunday but it has a small running problem. It's not reving cleanly and lacks power although cruises happily enough.

A quick live scan shows the rev count from the crank sensor doesn't match the gauge and isn't showing any change past 2200 even at cut-off. Suspect crank sensor although it seems if the sensor is bad it stops the engine running???

Anyone seen this before?? Glenn?? Will swap it for a known good one on Wed and see if it improves.

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Is it the Hall effect one or resistors? I have a Hall effect one here off m52 brand new if you want to try. You'll need to splice some wires but it'll be nothing new to you now ha.

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Thanks dude, will try the one outta the wagon and see if it improves first.

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Mine was running badly, checked the resistance of the crank sensor, was not quite up to spec, replaced it and back to animal... It got worse when warm.

Cam sensors can also cause misery, a lot of the time they will cause erratic idling, but they are hall effect so cant be quickly checked with a multimeter, have to plug the laptop in to test them.

Just check the lead has not got chewed by the pulleys/belts.

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Thanks Will. Sensor is a inductive pulse generator, same as e34? I wonder how fussy they are in regards to gap to timing gear? Do you think it would cause problems if the gap wasn't 100% constant as the gear turns and passes the sensor?

This from Pelican.

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On 8-cylinder engines, the crankshaft sensor may be installed with a shim (green arrow), be sure this shim is reinstalled. This is to correct the air gap for the sensor to the reluctor on the flex-plate. If you replace the flex-plat or transmission, BMW wants you to measure the sensor (area between red arrow) to determine if it needs a shim. To determine shim size, measure length between red arrow, then subtract length of sensor from distance of mounting area to reluctor tooth (be sure you are on a tooth and not in a gap). The distance from the sensor tip to the reluctor should be 0.55 mm (0.0217 inches). Install new sensor. Torque sensor to engine block 10Nm (7 ft-lb). Reroute and reconnect electrical connector, be sure wiring harness is installed in metal clip at bell housing. Start vehicle and allow it to idle for about 1 minute. Check that crankshaft sensor area is free of oil leaks. If your check engine was on, now is the time to clear any fault codes and you are done.

.55mm seems pretty specific ha.

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Gap is pretty critical, dont know about .05mm critical! I would be aiming for something between 0.5 and 0.6mm.

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I have a feeling that, with the way I set up the flywheel, it might be wandering in and out by maybe 1/2mm. Might be enough to corrupt the signal. Will measure tomorrow.

The e34 uses to same type of sensor?

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e34 have the crank sensor on the front hub like a m50 engine

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It reads off the ring gear so doubt if a small amount of in/out wandering would affect it. Up/down yes.

Found this link, has some useful info on the M62.. http://www.rtsauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/M62-Engine-Details.pdf

Also came across this post in the Bimmerfest forum..

I just learned how to test a CPS from an engineer I know that works for Bosch. With it removed, attach leads from a multimeter to the positive and negative terminals on the plug. The third terminal is the signal. You should get a reading around 500 to 600 ohms. Take a heat gun and begin to heat the CPS up. The ohms will go to 700 to 900 but not continue to climb on a good one whereas a bad one will continue to climb till it reaches a point where it goes offline, meaning open circuit.

Edited by will

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May be different for standard dme but on the link, the gap on the crank angle sensor was the difference between it being able to rev past 3k and not.. I had painted the timing cover with some 2k paint and clear and thought nothing of it. Sanded the 1mm of paint off and it was good as new. It was then getting trigger errors on the cam angle sensor after 6500rpm and that turned out to be interference in the wiring running back to ecu loom. Also the cam angle sensor we had to change to an earlier reluctor type to get it to work. Again probably different with standard dme.

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Measured the depth to wheel as best I could, tricky with a bloody exhaust in the way. Anyway, measured 34.2mm odd. Sensor measures 32mm.

Used the sensor as a sacrificial lamb and cut it down a bit to test. Destroyed it ha. Bugger.

Will grab a couple from Ray and try again, but 2mm+ seems waaayy too much.

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Have you scoped the triggers? Think josh has an old oscilloscope.

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Na haven't had a chance to do anything like that yet. Will do some more work setting it up first then hopefully josh and brendon can find some time to work their special magic thing they do.

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Will pop up this weekend .. text me when you're free and will organise brendon and we'll pop up. Will bring oscilloscope too so we can measure the signal properly from timing wheel.

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Gents, we should go for a drive sometime over Xmas/New Year once Alice is running as she should!

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Will pop up this weekend .. text me when you're free and will organise brendon and we'll pop up. Will bring oscilloscope too so we can measure the signal properly from timing wheel.

Talk tonight.

Gents, we should go for a drive sometime over Xmas/New Year once Alice is running as she should!

Indeed.

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Drive this to pub tonight, josh bring scope, I'll bring a few sensors, then we can do skids.

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Ha! You missed the bit where I destroyed the sensor...

Also needs wof. Minor technicality....

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So, tiny bit of pissing about with this, time allowing (which isn't much) new sensor in and happy with clearance.

Maybe made a small improvement 'till it decided to really act up on occasion. When it does it, it wont take any throttle and more often than not wont idle.

The rest of the time, still misses and revs slowly till 4800-5000 RPM then goes like a cut cat above that. Floor it in 2nd, wait while it pisses about getting to 5 odd k, goes hard, change to 3rd and it seems to keep pulling hard well beyond a hundy km/h, run out of room, repeat. Weird.

Was thinking maybe the loom was crushed too tightly against its-self as it wound its way between the ASC bracket through the fire wall into the car. Maybe causing some interference? Have loosened this off a touch and may have made an improvement but it's a pain in the arse having a gravel road. Working on this as limited time allows...

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Am on holiday .. come over. Will clip oscilloscope on to the DME input and see whats really going on.

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any live data, throwing any codes?

Only briefly. It's where we found the bad engine speed reading. Needs more time on it.

Am on holiday .. come over. Will clip oscilloscope on to the DME input and see whats really going on.

No chance before the last week of Jan mate. Too busy with 5 year old birthday partys and holidays etc.

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