Palazzo 438 Report post Posted January 19, 2014 LSD huge grip.My 535 wouldn't spin the wheels even in the wet unless you tried to Really? Our M325i was all over the show in the wet with LSD. Jules, look forward to it, only a few kw shy of the Falcon...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1258 Report post Posted January 19, 2014 Really? Our M325i was all over the show in the wet with LSD. Jules, look forward to it, only a few kw shy of the Falcon...... yea but the e34 has so much more mechanical grip to start with than a tail happy e30 etc my e34 544i is the same , have to work it to get the tyres to spin , where as the e28 will do sideways at the drop of a hat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1559 Report post Posted January 19, 2014 Jules, look forward to it, only a few kw shy of the Falcon...... haha! I know... You set the bar high! Should be fun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3_Power 636 Report post Posted January 22, 2014 haha! No... I haven't got the skills to do anything with it!! Teaser, Mike... Bling!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1559 Report post Posted January 22, 2014 Bling indeed. It arrives next week. Now got to try and beg, borrow and steal the cash for new rotors (I have pads already), two drive-shaft safety loops for the cert, the cert and a tune. Ouch. Might be a while before I can actually install it and cert it!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3_Power 636 Report post Posted January 22, 2014 Bling indeed. It arrives next week. Now got to try and beg, borrow and steal the cash for new rotors (I have pads already), two drive-shaft safety loops for the cert, the cert and a tune. Ouch. Might be a while before I can actually install it and cert it!! The wallet must feel lighter just from typing that out haha!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1559 Report post Posted January 22, 2014 (edited) The wallet doesn't know what's hit it. Plan is to do the following in this order: Media blast, sand and powdercoat rocker covers Replace pads and rotors Install DS safety loops Install SC Tune Cert LSD That way I can keep an eye on the budget and delay the SC install (or even sell the SC) if things get too tight. If I had to sell it I'm sure I'd get my money back so I'd be back on track with what is still a great car!! Edited January 22, 2014 by jeffbebe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1559 Report post Posted January 27, 2014 (edited) Drank a couple of beers with Martin (breakmywindow) yesterday and prised off the valve covers between swigs. Going to strip and powdercoat them this week. The horrible oxidising magnesium alloy does nothing for my OCD - plus all sorts of crap is flaking off into my engine. By the looks of things the previous owners weren't changing the oil as often as I would but it's not terrible and a fresh change once the covers back in will is a must. Not quite what I hoped to see inside but not the end of the world. Can't really risk scraping it out as it'll probably loosen even more than will then get into the engine and cause more problems. Will flush and change the oil once the covers are back on. Can anyone recommend any effective cleaners that won't do more harm than good? Not about to pull the whole thing to piece to clean it so will try and tidy it up as best I can for now. Edited January 28, 2014 by jeffbebe 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted January 27, 2014 yea i hated working with that magnesium nothing sticks to it with paint. powder coat should be fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1870 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 yea i hated working with that magnesium nothing sticks to it with paint. powder coat should be fine. Really? I used some self-priming high temp paint on my old 540i covers and to this day it's still holding up well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1559 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 Interesting. Haven't heard of people having problems with paint other than the oxidisation reoccurring underneath. I went for powder coat as I prefer the finish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 i used vht wrinkle which worked but the plain primers i used didnt work. im sure etch primer etc would work Sent from my GT-I8160L using Tapatalk 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
740i_Lou 5 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) I read that you can stop the oxidation from recurring by baking it prior to coating. Apparently its caused by the engine temp getting up and by heating it up for a period of time you air it out so to speak. Also, I ran some Wynn's brand oil flush prior to doing my covers and the engine still looked like yours. Would be interested to know a better product. Edited January 28, 2014 by 740i_Lou Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2312 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 Good work Julian, this will really improve the under hood appearance! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 Would be interested to know a better product. maintanence 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 Would be interested to know a better product. maintanence 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
740i_Lou 5 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 That goes without saying. My problem, as with OP's stems from the previous owner. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1559 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 I read that you can stop the oxidation from recurring by baking it prior to coating. Apparently its caused by the engine temp getting up and by heating it up for a period of time you air it out so to speak. Also, I ran some Wynn's brand oil flush prior to doing my covers and the engine still looked like yours. Would be interested to know a better product. I'm pretty confident powdercoating inside and out will significantly slow any further oxidisation and it's pretty cheap to do (around $75 for both if you don't choose any fancy colours!). Asked my mechanic about oil flushes, etc and he reckoned it's probably better not to. The reason being if the cleaning agent works too well it dislodge a lot of crap into the sump which could cause worse problems. He thought it was better to leave it or, if you really want it clean, dismantle the whole engine and clean the parts individually before reassembling. I'm going to run with the former and just continue to do regular oil changes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1870 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 You can buy a parts cleaner from the tool shed for pretty cheap if you change your mind.... ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1559 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 I can probably take it apart okay... Are you going to help put it back together, Martin? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1870 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 Yep, will make a great v8 coffee table after we start it up... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 Not quite what I hoped to see inside but not the end of the world. Can't really risk scraping it out as it'll probably loosen even more than will then get into the engine and cause more problems. Will flush and change the oil once the covers are back on. Can anyone recommend any effective cleaners that won't do more harm than good? Not about to pull the whole thing to piece to clean it so will try and tidy it up as best I can for now. photo 2.JPG That's not dirty. This is dirty: 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1559 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 haha! If I found that I would have gone into shock. Seems to be a fair bit of this kind of thing on the US boards because owners stuck to the 'oil change every 20,000 miles' advice. More frequent changes is a must with these engines in my opinion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted January 28, 2014 haha! If I found that I would have gone into shock. Seems to be a fair bit of this kind of thing on the US boards because owners stuck to the 'oil change every 20,000 miles' advice. More frequent changes is a must with these engines in my opinion. The service lights are fine.... IF you use the correct oil! Most don't seem to. It's also supposed to be in there 2 years max, regardless of milage. Lots seem to get any old crap oil with the right viscosity (or what they think is close enough), and bung it in and STILL use the service lights! Mineral or semi-synth should really only be in for shorter changes intervals, and not all synthetic is designed for long intervals either. Our M54 would normally come up every 22K kms, but I programmed it to be about 15K 15K isn't really extended intervals anyway, because our 2.5 holds 6.5L, a lot of jap 2.5's of similar vintage only hold 4 or 4.5L with 10K intervals There's nothing to worry about inside your motor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1870 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 That's not dirty. This is dirty: That is filthy! Here's my old M62tu after 250,000kms of regular changes using Shell Helix 5w30 full synthetic : 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
