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jeffbebe

E39 V8 restoration

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The factory fitted Celis rears apparently never had the resistor/ballast packs (except maybe the faceliifted but prefacelift date M5's), they came with the retrofitted ones it seems.

Mine has none, and it's a November 2000 build date (facelift started septmeber 2000).

Josh would be mush handier, and is probably better at it :)

The tamper dot is ONLY an issue if you don't update the VIN in the LCM... it actually has nothing to do with milage. BMW Scanner will change both VIN and Milage to suit the rest of the car. I have the LCM4 in my, from a wrecked E53 X5 B)

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Oh yeah, it's not the checks that are the issue I think - the LCM actually pulse width modultes the 12V to run the LEDS, and they can burn out if run on 12V direct. I seem to recall you can alter the PWM to alter the brightness (or burn them out if you do it wrong).

I'm nott 100% on that though - that's why I'd want to check the settings first. I have some vague recollection of the standard lights being set to 80 and coding to my car sets it at 20... But I could be dreaming - it's happened before :lol:

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Yep, factory fitted Celis don't require the voltage regulators as the LCM is programmed to do that internally. Hopefully, Josh can recode my LCM to manage the voltage as well as deleting any faults so I don't require additional capacitors.

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Took advantage of a day off and installed a set of genuine Hella FL LED tail lights that I picked up from Matt (Ahmedsinc). Followed the retrofit instructions to the letter but found the lights still didn't fit. The issue is the small amount of filing/grinding shown here (blue arrow) on bmwdiy.com:

celis-rear-04.jpg

I don't know whether the retrofit lights are different to the factory-fitted ones but this didn't work for me at all and I had to resort to a bit of good old fashioned hammering to get them to fit. No big drama though, it's out of sight and used some touch up paint to seal any bare metal against rust.

Before
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Quick test fit
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Stealth
12783363833_ba4a0ce86c_z.jpg
Two new holes drilled and a bit of hammering
12783366033_6296726ab0_z.jpg
Old and new connectors
12783368803_b88e912ccc_z.jpg
Testing out my rarely used soldering skills
12783261455_c3938be6e2_z.jpg
My helpful assistant
12783373143_43cf2b2534_z.jpg
Done and modernised. Just a bit of LCM coding to go. Even restored all the original badges and got rid of the black and white badboi emblems.12783375233_ee56177552_z.jpg
EDIT: Oh, and filmed a quick test (hard to test the brakes lights on your own!) with a couple of gratuitous revs at the end... The exhaust is sounding pretty adequate.

Edited by jeffbebe
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lci lights are way better, M is on the wrong side!

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///M is exactly where it was when I bought it. Only on the other side if debadged which were mostly 530s. Otherwise it would be an M540i which was an E34 only released in Canada, I think.

EDIT: Here it is when I got it and 100% certain the ///M badge was OE not aftermarket.

post-16586-0-31040400-1393388238.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by jeffbebe

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Oh yeah, it's not the checks that are the issue I think - the LCM actually pulse width modultes the 12V to run the LEDS, and they can burn out if run on 12V direct. I seem to recall you can alter the PWM to alter the brightness (or burn them out if you do it wrong).

I'm nott 100% on that though - that's why I'd want to check the settings first. I have some vague recollection of the standard lights being set to 80 and coding to my car sets it at 20... But I could be dreaming - it's happened before :lol:

Yep. Can be done: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/173233-my00-folks-us-facelift-celis-no-ballasts-diy.html

I've got LCM III so in theory all is possible (and required or risk burning out the LEDs) - now to attempt it!! Thanks in advance to Martin and Josh who will be providing the technology (and the brains).

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Hi Julian,

Hope you have better luck with the Clears than I did when fitting them to my old 2001 530. Had the led parks but amber indicators which I wanted to change to the clears after two failed set of lights I fitted the capacitors and had no trouble after that. Things I found different light connectors old type a square connector new a flat six pin, modify the body slightly like you had to and a couple of other things. Most important make sure you get a good seal with the new tail lights on the body as they form part of the water channel for the boot drain and if they leak you can get some nasty electrical problems apart from a boot full of water. Good luck

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Thanks Tim. Fitting was no problem and I've ordered new gaskets so I'll put the new ones in when they show up to ensure no future leaks. According to Google my LCM version (and yours) can be recoded to operate properly with the LED retrofit so no capacitors are required, which is certainly my preferred option. That said, if I can't recode it I'll definitely get the capacitors to ensure the LEDs don't burn out.... Until it's sorted I'll avoid driving at night!

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All good, I was never able to find an reason why the second set of tail lights I fitted got fried even after having the lcm changed and recoded etc hence the capacitors being used.They can be fitted in the spare wheel space or neatly beside the tail lights as mine were. Best of luck with it they do make the darker coloured cars look sharper. If you haven't already stick in some phantom bulb's in the indicators get ride of that orange blob look.

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I am putting forward the suggestion that there is no such thing as gratuitous revving in an e39 540i ! ;)

Looking good. Sounds good too.

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Coding all done thanks to assistance from Josh, Martin and Google. Was able to retrofit code the LEDs with GT1 DIS but had to clear the reporting and cold checks using NCS Expert in the end. Bit of a mission (especially as it's in German) but got there in the end. No faults and no ballasts required. In hindsight it might have been easier to do the whole lot with NCS Expert but it took a lot longer to suss out than the much simpler to use GT1 app.

Edited by jeffbebe

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Download NCS Dummy ;)

NCS is a breeze then B) It decodes most of the options and changes the TRC or PSW file automatically, ready to write.

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Oh yeah - well done. It's nice to have it done proper, and not require the balleasts etc.

My genuine xenon retrofit required to coding, but had error eliminators. I took them off, and it worked anyway, but still coded the as required for the retrofit. It's just tidier.

PS: keep a list of the settings, so if you ever have to code the car, or LCM, you can set it up correctly :D

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Yep, going to work out how to code out the SAP check (since it's not there any more) and would like to remove the cold start procedure - but that may be more complicated.

Edited by jeffbebe

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My mechanic very kindly loaned me the use of a hoist yesterday (and some expert help). Replaced front lower control arms and rear crankshaft seal. 4.5 hours for both... No leaks no creaks! BOOM!! Very happy with that (would have taken me twice as long more to do on my own). Bad pics... Oily hands and smartphones don't work too well together:

post-16586-0-00556300-1400965982.jpeg

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EDIT: Should have added the car feels fantastic post-surgery... Major second thoughts about replacing with an 8er.

Edited by jeffbebe
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Major second thoughts about replacing with an 8er.

Don't do it......

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Don't do it......

Yeah I'm thinking you should just keep it now, save the hassle, do a cool dual exhaust like discussed. :)

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The E31s are a great car, don't get me wrong, but I think you're criminally insane wanting to sell your almost completely overhauled E39 for a totally unknown car on the other side of the world. Plus I'd imagine parts availability for the 8s would just be a nightmare. Engine & drivetrain would be ok, but any interior trims or such, forget it.

Keep the 540i & strap that VF kit on. I'd wager you'll probably end up with a rarer car than the 840i anyway :)

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It seems like such a waste to let go of an immaculate car..

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