So this happened today :(

[KwS 2425]

I hear these boxes can be damaged by using the wrong oil, so I will have to investigate the correct fluid.

Exactly this, and tbh not a hell of a lot of hope for a trans thats had oil run through it thats contaminated with coolant.

You wouldnt be able to flush it with a bottle, it would need to actually pump the oil through it (causing more damage in the process), or be stripped down and cleaned (and rebuilt since itll be stuffed).

[*Glenn* 854]

Water/coolant in a late model transmission / torque converter is eventually terminal with out a rebuild, be it immediately or a months time. The clutch fibre plates adhesive compound that hold the linings onto the plates degrades very quickly with hot water & steam. This releases the fibre material and the transmission sh*t's it self. No if's or but's. It also requires complete flushing of cooler lines and coolers. If metallic material is also present it's best to replace the cooler and all rubber cooler hoses after rebuilding the transmission

[allan 295]

Glenn has said it all their is no cheap certain way out of your problem. Their are two ways I can see of tackling this retain the n46 motor (shudder) remove the radiator and get it professionally flushed clean. Then get some access to the cooling channels in the block and flush them check the condition of your water pump, thermostat, expansion tank, heater core basically the whole cooling system needs to be inspected as it could course the rubber parts to loose their integrate. Then you can start on the transmission head ach as Glenn pointed out the clutch packs, brake bands even some rubber components may have dissolved. A complete strip down and clean will be needed then a rebuild undertaken $$$$$$ will be spent. A bit of research of a rebuild versus a second hand box with warranty might give you an idea nothing certain. Oh don't forget to get the torque converter checked or replaced. Finally you can look at a different system for cooling the trans oil so you don't get a repeat of your current situation. Also you mentioned you had more work to do on the motor as well. Factor that in and other work you will do on the motor in the future a sure thing.

The second as I understand is you have a parts car bring that in to play and see what you can use from it to help you out. Even if it meant an engine and gearbox swap you would then know what condition the items used were in and be able to compare this against that to see which would be the most cost effect way to go. Long winded I know but you are not going to solve this one with a snap of you're fingers sorry.

[Ahmedsinc 414]

Allan has some good points.

I know you're emotionally attached to the N46 (though I and a lot of other folk don't fathom why ) but this to me looks like the death knell. On the basis of economic sense it seem to me you're better to cut your losses with this one and either outright replace it or use it as a parts source to get the B25 running again. Is the 325i still registered or has it lapsed / dereged?

[zero 1162]

Allan has some good points.

I know you're emotionally attached to the N46 (though I and a lot of other folk don't fathom why ) but this to me looks like the death knell. On the basis of economic sense it seem to me you're better to cut your losses with this one and either outright replace it or use it as a parts source to get the B25 running again. Is the 325i still registered or has it lapsed / dereged?

The B25 is deregistered - I bought it off the owner after it was written off by his insurance due to a shunt to the rear.

Its purely a parts car.

Edited January 15, 2016 by zero

[zero 1162]

Ok, so yesterday we pulled the transmission, and what a mission.

We pulled the exhaust, heat sheild, and driveshaft. Had to disconnect some of the rear subframe mounting to get the driveshaft off the diff, and then discovered that it just disconnects at the back of the transmission.

Some of the bellhousing bolts were really hard to access, especially when I dont have a workshop pit or a lift in my backyard.

Anyway eventually got the transmission out with the help of Conor from the forums.

He took some pics so hopefully he will put some up on this thread.

The transmission was a milkshake inside. We flushed it by hand with transmission fluid twice, but we will do it again a few more times before it goes back in the car with its new filter and sump gasket. The torgue converter will get the same treatment.

I degreased and waterblasted everything that we removed (not inside the trans or torque converter obviously), and the entire underbody of the car. Today I replace the fuel filter and the engine sump gasket as part of regular mantenance I had planned. I will also replace the short fuel hoses on the fuel filter, and do an engine oil and filter change. All the cooling system has been completely dismantled and flushed. Even so, I will run a radiator flush through it anyways once it is back together.

All the suspension bushings, mountings, and the rubber donut on the back of the transmission looked in good condition - is there anything else I should change while I'm under there?

Hopefully the transmission lasts long enough for me to save up for a replacement.

Money is very tight so I will be selling the bits off my parts car, including the engine and box, so if anybody wants to help out by buying some parts let me know.

I think I will explore using a seperate oil cooler to prevent this headache happening again - can anyone give advice on where/how to mount it, what one to buy, and what fittings to use?

Thanks to all the advice and support.

[BatMansWilly 74]

Ok, so yesterday we pulled the transmission, and what a mission.

 

We pulled the exhaust, heat sheild, and driveshaft. Had to disconnect some of the rear subframe mounting to get the driveshaft off the diff, and then discovered that it just disconnects at the back of the transmission.

 

Some of the bellhousing bolts were really hard to access, especially when I dont have a workshop pit or a lift in my backyard.

Anyway eventually got the transmission out with the help of Conor from the forums.

 

He took some pics so hopefully he will put some up on this thread.

 

The transmission was a milkshake inside. We flushed it by hand with transmission fluid twice, but we will do it again a few more times before it goes back in the car with its new filter and sump gasket. The torgue converter will get the same treatment.

 

I degreased and waterblasted everything that we removed (not inside the trans or torque converter obviously), and the entire underbody of the car. Today I replace the fuel filter and the engine sump gasket as part of regular mantenance I had planned. I will also replace the short fuel hoses on the fuel filter, and do an engine oil and filter change. All the cooling system has been completely dismantled and flushed. Even so, I will run a radiator flush through it anyways once it is back together.

 

All the suspension bushings, mountings, and the rubber donut on the back of the transmission looked in good condition - is there anything else I should change while I'm under there?

 

Hopefully the transmission lasts long enough for me to save up for a replacement.

Money is very tight so I will be selling the bits off my parts car, including the engine and box, so if anybody wants to help out by buying some parts let me know.

 

I think I will explore using a seperate oil cooler to prevent this headache happening again - can anyone give advice on where/how to mount it, what one to buy, and what fittings to use?

 

Thanks to all the advice and support.

Here are the pics I took. Was a long day, But a good day

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[*Glenn* 854]

That transmission is now toast without a rebuild, including the torque converter which also has a lock up clutch in it

[*Glenn* 854]

NATHAN !!!....... call it a day.... It's now a parts car or donor . The engine has issues and the transmission is toast. Even if it was running properly it's only worth $5,000 on a good day

[KwS 2425]

am i the only one curious to see how long the trans lasts? Its costing nothing but fluids, filter, time and pain, so not a huge deal of harm to try.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

$200+ worth of fluid and filter down the drain IF it shits it self,

then the taxi ride to get home and another tow truck. could be $400 or so.

Thier time might be free, but you could be in the hammock having a beer instead.

or cut losses, use the fluids and filter on a known good trans, and set and forget.

i see what you mean Kelvin but yeah just doesnt stack up.

[zero 1162]

I just dont have a spare $800 for a trans at the moment, and I need a car to carry me and my tools to work in the meantime.

If replacing the fluid and filter fixes the problem, even just for the short term, then well and good.

If it doesnt then I'm in trouble till I can afford another box.

In the meantime the trans and torque convertor has been cleaned with trans fluid, and the trans valve body unit has been disassembled and is sitting in a bucket of trans fluid with the solenoids etc, ready for reassembly. Trans was suprisingly clean inside apart from the milkshakey oil, with no burn marks or particles on the magnet.

Today I also replaced the fuel filter and hoses on the car as it was due - the old filter was very dirty.

I also undid the engine sump from the block ready to put on the new sump gasket, but had to go out before I could put the new one on.

If I get a month or two out of the trans I will be happy.

Even though the transmission rubber donut looked fine, should it be replaced?

[zero 1162]

So new engine sump gasket went on tonight.

Engine and sump was cleaner than I thought, although I did find a bolt rolling around in the bottom of the sump.

Anyone know what torque setting for the sump bolts?

The internets is giving me conflicting information.

[*Glenn* 854]

22nm

[gjm 3258]

Today I also replaced the fuel filter and hoses on the car as it was due - the old filter was very dirty.

I also undid the engine sump from the block ready to put on the new sump gasket, but had to go out before I could put the new one on.

Fuel filters get overlooked all too often.

[5amchris 45]

Even though the transmission rubber donut looked fine, should it be replaced?

Honestly does it matter what we say? Everyone has already told you are wasting your money doing what you are doing so you might as well just do what you wanna do with this.

Sorry its just the truth.

[M3AN 4016]

Don't be mean guys. His situation is shitty enough. He's heard the advice and told us all he has limited options. Some times you just need to throw money at a short term solution based on circumstances.

[scottbeattie 63]

Don't be mean guys. His situation is shitty enough. He's heard the advice and told us all he has limited options. Some times you just need to throw money at a short term solution based on circumstances.

Agreed, one size does not fit all.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[zero 1162]

Zimbabwe88 - There have been two main pieces of advice in this thread;

(A) chuck in a cheap used auto trans.

or

(B)do an engine and trans swap with the m54 I have in my parts car.

I cant afford the money or time to do the m54 swap, much though I would prefer it.

So I will be buying a cheap used auto to swap in, and while I try and scrape some money together to buy one I am flushing the one I have to get a month or two's usage out of it.

I already had bought a bunch of parts (the day before the trans crapped out ironically) to do some planned maintenance on my car, so am doing them at the same time where it makes sense to do so.

I really DO value the advice from the community.

I even had one member (who I had never met in person) offer to come and look at the car the very next day.

I've had offers of free or discounted parts, and another forum member has spent several days helping, including driving to Albany to pick up parts while I'm at work.

This community has really blown me away

Edited January 19, 2016 by zero

[BreakMyWindow 1874]

Using a trans on borrowed time that you intend in swapping out is at least good practice for doing the job!

The guibo's in auto cars tend to last longer than manual cars. If it's not cracked at all i'd say leave it.

[zero 1162]

Yes, I will be a pro at swapping boxes by the time I'm finished.

And now that I've done the sump gasket, I'm much more confident about doing it on the wifes car which has the same leaking sump problem.

Thanks for the advice - I will reuse the guibo.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

the guibos are not cheap either for some reason. in most cases it should last the life time off the car, but other failure in the driveline or abuse from erattic driving style of course speeds up failure too.

[M3AN 4016]

the guibos are not cheap either for some reason. in most cases it should last the life time off the car, but other failure in the driveline or abuse from erattic driving style of course speeds up failure too.

They die on E36 M3's before 200k, it's almost a certainty.

I agree that they're silly expensive! Miland have some for good prices occasionally.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

They die on E36 M3's before 200k, it's almost a certainty.

I agree that they're silly expensive! Miland have some for good prices occasionally.

yep see second half of my second sentence. you dont buy an M3 to nanna it! but you do buy a 318 auto like Nathan has to nanna it.

[hybrid 1043]

id argue if similar price, the rebuild is the way to go, another used could be 6 months away from failure it self. at least a rebuild is under warrenty

Ive done it on an e46. it was 6k for the rebuild, new gearbox was 6.5k. second hand 1.8k. even if you had to do it again, its still way cheaper and makes more sense.