E36 M3 Body lean

[nzsapper 82]

Hi

I have an issue with the body of my car leaning to the driver side. I have taken it to the local Shock shop to be told car was leaning 4mm and some packers would fix it, but no idea as to why the car is leaning, obviously I have searched all the forums but as yet no answer. It appears to the eye that the car leans somewhat more than 4mm, I have measured it to around 15mm .So I have a few questions for the wise out there

 

1. Rear shock mounts were done earlier this year, is it possible there is some wrong there,

2. Has anyone had this issue before and was there a simple fix?

Paul

[Michael. 2313]

Could be a cracked subframe, can start on one corner.

Have a look under the car and check the mounting points for the rear subframe. 

I've seen E36s do that because of such. 

If I recall, 3.0L M3s don't have the 3.2 EVO reinforcements to help stop this issue. 

 

 

[M3AN 4016]

No, they all do it from the factory, it's normal.

Theories abound but the prevailing suggestion is that it was designed into the car to compensate for a driver sitting in a LHD vehicle.

General consideration is that it makes no difference but if you want to corner balance the car you'll need to use 15mm spring pads in the rear and 10mm pads in the front on the right hand side.

[KwS 2425]

+1 to if the subframe isnt cracked, then it is normal. Mine leaned to the RH side a bit too (although not as much as yours). The time i spent on M3 forums when i had mine showed a lot of cars leant that way, and many people discussed how to correct it (with spring pads as Dave mentioned).

[Cab 148]

Do you have a full tank of gas?

[qube 3570]

gangster's lean..

[aja540i 1906]

29 minutes ago, qube said:

gangster's lean..

I think you mean gangstas lean.

[nzsapper 82]

Thank for the advice , some it a bit scary ie subframe, I wasn't aware of this on e36s.I have a few pics from underneath, to be honest I don't even know if Im even looking at the right things, I don't see anything that stands out a being wrong (untrained eyes) . Is this a pic of evidence of reinforcement, plus one of the lean this afternoon. Cheers Paul

[Olaf 3317]

8 hours ago, nzsapper said:

 

It's just really, really scared, cowering in fear in your garage... worried you're going to put that roof box on it!

[nzsapper 82]

After much toing and froing I am going to try putting in new shocks as I think the issue is hopefully just due to at 160000km it appears to have original shocks in the rear

1. The issue is only now and again, some days bad 10-15mm some not up and to 5mm lean

2. I have checked everything else that has been suggested and this what I going to try

3. Autoalign chaps in Pamly say it sounds like a stuck shock, so

4. I have just purchased new Bilstiens for the rear only (it will now have bilstiens allround).

As I have never replaced shocks before,  just wondering if there anything I need to watch out for ?  and do I need any spec tools?

I've got it into my head this should be simple enough?, probably my first mistake.

Will post on the outcome in the coming days

Cheers Paul

 

[KwS 2425]

Unless you already have recently, i would also do new strut top mounts and reinforcement plates.

[M3AN 4016]

And you'll need spring compressors. Not for the rears you wont.

As a matter of interest how much were the shocks if you don't mind?

Edited November 17, 2016 by M3AN

[Lucan 196]

Rear shocks are easy, shouldn't need spring compressors? I've never used them anyway. Undo top bolts, jack under hub, remove lower bolt, replace shock.

[M3AN 4016]

12 minutes ago, Lucan said:

Rear shocks are easy, shouldn't need spring compressors? I've never used them anyway. Undo top bolts, jack under hub, remove lower bolt, replace shock.

lol - of course you're correct, I'm an idiot.

[nzsapper 82]

Thanks everyone for the advice and pointers

Done, pretty simple really. Old shocks appear to be original Boge, don't return when compressed so they needed doing anyway, time will tell if this was the problem. Noticed callipers on one side missing clips for pads, so need to sort that.

1. Cost - $777.24 for 2 shocks from autolign , but hey that's whats in the front so just wanted to keep it the same all round

2. Rear shock mounts have  been done recently, have been wondering if I should do to reinforcement plates?. So simple to remove everything I might just order some and do it.

Thanks again, really appreciated all the advice I have received

Regards Paul

[M3AN 4016]

The rear shock mount reinforcements (just get Z3 ones, nothing special required) are installed on the top of the shock tower in the boot, you don't need to remove the shock, just the nuts.

 

[jonoe30 53]

I think I have a pair of new E36 reinforcing plates at home, I'll check when I get home, if I do you can have them free.

[nzsapper 82]

Bugger

Just ordered some

 

[swordfish 30]

They all lean from factory as mentioned earlier! Mine did as well, and it had fully rebuild suspension etc.

[jom 98]

On 11/18/2016 at 5:08 PM, swordfish said:

They all lean from factory as mentioned earlier! Mine did as well, and it had fully rebuild suspension etc.

Don't tell Ron.....

[atlantiskiwi 73]

On 11/18/2016 at 9:36 AM, jonoe30 said:

I think I have a pair of new E36 reinforcing plates at home, I'll check when I get home, if I do you can have them free.

Gidday mate, I am about to order some plates. You don't happen to have some lying around before I do?

[nzsapper 82]

Reminder of the issue - Car  has lean and terrible body roll when turning left, solid as a rock turning right.

Update

1. Have replaced shocks all round with

a. Rear (November) Bilstien 24-02532 , removed original SACHs shocks and they were toast. This didnt fix lean

b. Front (today) Bilstien VE3-4237 and 38, removed older VE3-4337 and 38, as I was informed (by autolign) it can cost up to $500 per shock to rebuild if they can be rebuilt, so I replaced them.

2. Old front shocks - left seemed ok but right had no movement at all when on the car, off the car they both seem ok , no leaks and return when compressed.

3.  Shock shop (John Bates Palmy) also added 10mm packer to right front , I personally wasnt entirely sold on this idea at the time , but they are the professionals, so ran with thier advice to hopefully sort the intermittant lean to the right  of  5 to 15mm . I am still not sold , they have told me wait a while and the car will settle????

a. Corners to top wheel arch

Right front - 655cm Right rear - 630cm

Left front - 660cm Left rear - 635cm

Car now looks like front is raised, cant see how this will settle down,  aesthetically the car is not looking right to me, but the ride is so much better now.

Questions

1. Will the car settle? or shall I get them to remove the packer?

2. Are there any other E36 M3 owners who have the measurements to the top wheel arch out there? esp front

3. Has any one who may have tastefully lowered there e36 M3, if so what springs did you use?, ie not riding on bump stops

Thanks in advance for any advice or previous experience with this packer/lean/lowering springs  issues

Cheers

 

New look - will do better pic in moring

Old look

Edited May 19, 2017 by nzsapper
spelling

[Olaf 3317]

drive at least 1000kms I reckon, let it settle a bit before you introduce any further changes.  In fact, come on a roadie** next weekend! that should add nearly 500 kms for you!

 

** yes I know you've already confirmed, this is simply positive reinforcement of the theraputic nature of getting out with a bunch of kindred BMW-appreciating, fuel-burning spirits, and letting your M3 be reassured that it's not going to be sent to the naughty corner or made to wear the automotive equivalent of a red nose, the roof box.

Edited May 19, 2017 by Olaf

[zero 1162]

When you measure the height, you need to measure from the centre of the wheel so as to remove the variable of the tyre.

[nzsapper 82]

33 minutes ago, zero said:

When you measure the height, you need to measure from the centre of the wheel so as to remove the variable of the tyre.

Thanks for that.

Will do a another measure.