BMW 130i - Birds B1 Dynamics etc etc etc

[exextatic 111]

30 minutes ago, Jacko said:

LCI cluster into pre-LCI, its plug and play but coding it to suit my VO doesnt seem to work as servicing schedules havent transferred over (and its still reporting the old VIN on the kombi). Some sorta tamper proofing, odo reads correctly though.

Oil temp is on the OBD2 feed on pre-lci cars, DME must use it, and has the sensor, but the PID for it is apparently topsecret so its unobtanium in Torque etc. 

CBS (servicing schedules) should work once the VIN is aligned. @HELLBM should be able to assist with resetting the EEPROM.

[M3AN 4016]

1 hour ago, Jacko said:

LCI cluster into pre-LCI, its plug and play but coding it to suit my VO doesnt seem to work as servicing schedules havent transferred over (and its still reporting the old VIN on the kombi). Some sorta tamper proofing, odo reads correctly though.

Oil temp is on the OBD2 feed on pre-lci cars, DME must use it, and has the sensor, but the PID for it is apparently topsecret so its unobtanium in Torque etc. 

That's awesome, didn't realise it was relatively straightforward. Probably quite easy to find a cluster with lower miles than yours so that's one problem taken care of!

The oil PID's problem exists with the LCI too. 😬

[exextatic 111]

37 minutes ago, M3AN said:

That's awesome, didn't realise it was relatively straightforward. Probably quite easy to find a cluster with lower miles than yours so that's one problem taken care of!

The oil PID's problem exists with the LCI too. 😬

Doing it properly will require resetting the EEPROM and aligning to the mileage and VIN of the vehicle - no need to source one with lower mileage.

Edited June 20, 2021 by exextatic

[Jacko 2156]

I dont want to change the odo, 300,000km unlocks extra street cred. 

[promo 93]

4 hours ago, Jacko said:

Now with oil temp gauge thanks to Matt... few little errors still to solve but its working!  @promo have you got the gear to clear the eeprom on a kombi?

Hiya, I have to virginise it first on the eeprom so that your vin will come across. Else you'll get the tamper dot and won't be able to do service resets either. 

[promo 93]

1 hour ago, exextatic said:

Doing it properly will require resetting the EEPROM and aligning to the mileage and VIN of the vehicle - no need to source one with lower mileage.

Mileage is easy to change. If you've already plugged it in and the dash has a higher value, it will sync with the cas module. To change again you need to do cluster and dash..easy to do . 

[NZ_InFerno 371]

Awesome upgrade man, I've wanted the temp gauge on mine for a while now but always thought it would be tricky to swap. And promo can make it work... guess I need to look out for a cluster! 

Will any cluster work? 

[Matt 123]

Awesome, stoked it worked!! 

[Jacko 2156]

Innards (Facelift) !

[Jacko 2156]

Success... Desoldered eeprom from OG cluster, swapped it into LCI cluster, and bingo LCI cluster thinks its original and all works. Now to fix the needle positions up as I must have moved the shafts when removing needles

[Jacko 2156]

Gah.... doesnt work... well.. it does... but in unexpected ways.

My oil temp gauge is now a vacuum/fuel efficiency gauge (like on prefl 330s  ). Whats weird is that it responds to oil temp gauge commands from coding, like driving it to half way and sweeps.

This is going to take some coding. @promo any ideas?

Edited July 3, 2021 by Jacko

[Jacko 2156]

Did some interneting, found a guide on how to screw with kombi using ediabas and hexadecimals and flick the mpg gauge into a oil temp gauge (when I want to make my oil temp gauge stop being an mpg gauge :D) ... then found this little program - Perfekt Toolbox. Works great! (the numbers here are what to plug in if anyone in the future is reading this) https://www.drive2.com/l/515881510977405074/

I now have a working oil temp gauge, that even shows oil temp.

Now to solve the speedo, going from 260kmh to 280kmh on the lci has made it go a bit out of whack calibration wise (only starts getting bad above 140kmh)

Edited July 10, 2021 by Jacko

[Jacko 2156]

Cheers to HellBM, now have a new lump to play with.... 

[IainR 55]

Any interesting plans.....? 

[Jacko 2156]

1 hour ago, IainR said:

Any interesting plans.....? 

Freshen up with new seals etc, MILVs and rag on it  During the swap will get KB to give the box a freshen up. 

Goes in for the headers end of month 

[Jacko 2156]

Couple of hours of cleaning and poking around today. Looks good inside. 

[Jacko 2156]

Other end looks tickety boo as well. New oil filter housing gaskets and pressure switch done, new plugs in. 

Injectors off to be cleaned and benched.

Now we play the wait on the courier game... milvs/gaskets/belts/pulleys/coils(with new plugs to convert my old spec car)... and every single coolant pipe. Gives me time to find a new rocker cover.

[Jacko 2156]

Shiney cleaned and benched injectors from injectortech in, during level 4 (legend), and have a new rockercover coming from ECS... (ouch).

Wondering if its worth trying to paint this one to give it some more protection than stock, at $700USD I dont really want to be buying multiple of these. Best as I can tell they are sprayed with aluminized coating to stop corrosion.. Im wondering if VHT or similar (nothing gaudy!) over the stock coating will improve lifespan of it?

Hopefully MILVs arrive this week and can bang them in. 

Edited August 24, 2021 by Jacko

[M3AN 4016]

23 minutes ago, Jacko said:

...Wondering if its worth trying to paint this one to give it some more protection than stock, at $700USD I dont really want to be buying multiple of these...

Couldn't get it from FCP with lifetime warranty?

[Jacko 2156]

1 minute ago, M3AN said:

Couldn't get it from FCP with lifetime warranty?

Wouldnt ship it to NZ, strangely.

[M3AN 4016]

9 minutes ago, Jacko said:

Wouldnt ship it to NZ, strangely.

Bugger and yeah, that's an odd exclusion.

Could you get it powder coated? Or might that alter the fit and tolerances too much?

[Jacko 2156]

24 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Bugger and yeah, that's an odd exclusion.

Could you get it powder coated? Or might that alter the fit and tolerances too much?

Yeah id be worried the temp would warp it 😕 

[leichtbau 525]

The "magnesium" covers are MgAl9Zn1(A) aka EN-MC 21120. Maximum mechanical temperature of 130 degrees but they don't start to melt until 490 degrees or so. I'd be inclined to dry ice blast an older cover and then zinc plate it.

[Jacko 2156]

1 hour ago, leichtbau said:

The "magnesium" covers are MgAl9Zn1(A) aka EN-MC 21120. Maximum mechanical temperature of 130 degrees but they don't start to melt until 490 degrees or so. I'd be inclined to dry ice blast an older cover and then zinc plate it.

The one on the car at the moment is just surface stuff at the moment, might be a good solution to try save that one. Can you recommend somewhere?

Edited August 24, 2021 by Jacko

[leichtbau 525]

4 minutes ago, Jacko said:

The one on the car at the moment is just surface stuff at the moment, might be a good solution to try save that one. Can you recommend somewhere?

Agreed - no sense in messing with the sparkly new cover.

(it has frustrated me enormously) I've seen enough of a gap in the market to do it myself, but I'm six months away from you sending your old cover down to me to blast for you. There's a few places in Auckland that could vapour blast the cover, but the jury is out on how well the magnesium alloy reacts to the shot peening effect that vapour blasting imparts on the metals being cleaned. Ideal for grey cast iron surfaces, but there's potential for microscopic cracking on alloys, and not enough real world testing to give a definitive answer on whether it's a good idea or not.