The 130i Thread

[Driftit 2078]

On 1/29/2021 at 9:50 AM, gofaster said:

Is there a thread on recalls for the heater breather thing and airbag recall? Do Jap import cars qualify?.

If so, how do we get notified?

BMW will contact you via snail mail. When they feel like it. Could give them a call.

[Wouldliketolearn 0]

Thanks guys!!!

I'll update you as soon as I have more info on the Christchurch one. How much would I expect to pay for an LCI manual in okay condition. Being that I'd be happy to get it up to scratch over the next year. (In an ideal world id get a lower km one and keep this for a wee while)

[Wouldliketolearn 0]

Also probably worth noting that for the 8750 starter motor has been replaced but not the sump gasket

[Wouldliketolearn 0]

the one in Christchurch?

Any concerns re those error codes, he wants 10k as he's said he's going to fix it this weekend

 

 

 

[M3AN 4016]

Arron's legit and knows what he's doing, I'd trust the work he's doing and he'll probably be able to help or advise you if you needed that down the road. I'd certainly put it on my list to look at and seriously consider if I was down that way.

Edited February 5, 2021 by M3AN

[Brianr70 83]

Does anyone know about the heater valve recall.? 

[Blackie 510]

2 hours ago, qube said:

I'd even try get it a bit closer to 8000 since it didnt sell for 9k, and you have to travel for it.

I've often wondered why buyers expect I should drop my sale price to pay for their travel. 😕

 

[NZ_InFerno 371]

1 hour ago, Brianr70 said:

Does anyone know about the heater valve recall.? 

[Jacko 2154]

CCV thing at back of engine, catches fire  

Its weird the kiwi cars havent been effected by any of these recalls Im not to sure if mine had the cam ledge seal one or was past that point in production. 

[M3AN 4016]

Mine was recalled for this, Auckland City BMW said they'd be in touch within a few weeks. Nearly a year later? Nothing.

I've not received an airbag recall.

 

[qube 3570]

2 hours ago, Wouldliketolearn said:

the one in Christchurch?

Any concerns re those error codes, he wants 10k as he's said he's going to fix it this weekend

Valvetronic thing, if it is just the sensor then shouldnt be an issue, but if its a problematic eccentric shaft it could be a bit more expensive.

If its gets sorted, for 10k I would definitely consider it, looks well maintained and buying from a forum member is a plus.

 

58 minutes ago, Blackie said:

I've often wondered why buyers expect I should drop my sale price to pay for their travel. 😕

not expected, but if it didnt sell at 9000, and the seller is motivated to sell then you could try to justify a slightly lower price as a compromise between asking price and what you are willing to pay. 

Sometimes all it takes is an offer to "cover" their flight costs or a full tank of gas to tip a potential buyer over the edge in their decision making in whether to buy or not. its just a gesture that you are motivated to sell more so than $ value.

[Wouldliketolearn 0]

25 minutes ago, qube said:

Valvetronic thing, if it is just the sensor then shouldnt be an issue, but if its a problematic eccentric shaft it could be a bit more expensive.

If its gets sorted, for 10k I would definitely consider it, looks well maintained and buying from a forum member is a plus.

I mean definitely if it was well maintained I'd gladly split with the 10k with it being in chch. But my issue just being that im 90% sure it's this same one mentioned earlier in this thread

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2872154553

And not that I doubt the work Arron's done, but having no service history and being a car that someone didn't bother fixing before selling, I am a bit paranoid about it.

Ugh it's all very stressful hahah

 

[M3AN 4016]

Yep, it's the same one but that wouldn't concern me. Arron has a diagnostic computer and would probably show you any codes etc if you wanted. Other than that, it's leaks, clunks and bumps that you need to worry about and you also need to keep in mind that they will leak oil, regardless of the level of maintenance.

My understanding is that he'll fix the valvetronic thing and his for sale thread lists the fixes to the original problems.

Drive it, talk to him, and make a call based on how comfortable you are.

[GorGasm 563]

The West Auckland one was what I was talking about.  Cant see FB.  That other Christchurch one looks a bit scruffy.

Edited February 5, 2021 by GorGasm

[Arron 227]

4 hours ago, Wouldliketolearn said:

I mean definitely if it was well maintained I'd gladly split with the 10k with it being in chch. But my issue just being that im 90% sure it's this same one mentioned earlier in this thread

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2872154553

And not that I doubt the work Arron's done, but having no service history and being a car that someone didn't bother fixing before selling, I am a bit paranoid about it.

Ugh it's all very stressful hahah

 

Yup that is the one, 

have spent a few days on it now going through things and sorting a few niggly issues with it

 

New rear window winder, front drivers seat wasn't going through all movements so but a new switch control unit on the side of it, sorted out the headlights, new rear wheel bearing the list goes on. Previous owners had had it for a few years but parked it up when it developed a rotational clunk in the back which was the wheel bearing.

 

Have had it up on a hoist and there are no oil leaks to be seen and generally the underside seems to be in fairly good condition.

It's by no means a perfect car, but even at the 10k mark, its still going to be the cheapest 130i manual with reasonable kms on it

[Arron 227]

4 hours ago, M3AN said:

Yep, it's the same one but that wouldn't concern me. Arron has a diagnostic computer and would probably show you any codes etc if you wanted. Other than that, it's leaks, clunks and bumps that you need to worry about and you also need to keep in mind that they will leak oil, regardless of the level of maintenance.

My understanding is that he'll fix the valvetronic thing and his for sale thread lists the fixes to the original problems.

now on this topic, I need some thoughts from the fellow 130'ers

 

Currently dealing with a 2a39 - dme valvetronic adjustment range fault in it.

 

On the scanner (a big launch one) and Insta+ the Eccentric shaft sensor will read at 217 degrees, yet the specified angle is 0 degrees (when the code is present)
if you clear the code, and drive the car it won't come back until you have turned it off and started it a few times yet will still be reading angles as the above.

 

Sometimes, it will randomly have a "normal specified" angle at idle of around 25 degrees, and will increase with RPM as it is meant to, and the sensor will read that the eccentric shaft is doing what it is meant to where it is meant to, when this happens the 2s39 code is not present (no surpriseses there) 

so far this is what I have checked/done/discovered

1) Have run a valvetronic calibration in INSTA

• this has not solved the problem, although id did successfully calibrate

2) Eccentric shaft sensor plug full of oil, common issue, for not have cleaned it out and will put a new seal into the rocker cover when it goes back together.

•  This did not change anything, 

3) self valvetronic calibration. as some may know, there is a self calibration with you first put the key in and turn the ignition on to ACC, This does not complete every time like it should once powered on, When this self calibration does complete, there is a "normal specified" angle and sensor function throughout the rev range until the car is turned off and restarted. When this calibration does not complete itself I get the odd  read at 217 degrees, yet the specified angle is 0 degrees.

When this test doesn't complete itself, the valvetronic motor will just sit there and make a slight movement but not the whole range

 

4) I have pulled the rocker cover off to check the eccentric shaft

• it looks ok, no teeth missing and moves though its motion as it should without the valvetronic motor on it

5) I have tested the valvetronic motor on the bench

• seems to be fine, isn't "slow" it lacking "oompf" like a failing motor would.

 

so as at the moment I am a little stumped, but these are my current thoughts on where to/what next

• Potentially the valvetronic motor has an intermittent fault which could explain the success and failures of self calibration
• Eccentric shaft sensor playing up, although unlikely as I always get a reading out of it

 

putting a new Motor and sensor into it doesn't worry me in the slightest and will most likely end up doing them anyway but does anyone have and thoughts on things to try/ways to eliminate what the issue isnt?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[NZ_InFerno 371]

I had a quite similar issue (it sounds like the same issue tbh) that caused no end of problems(car would run badly and die, down on power), but with no fault code ever occurring 🙄. The valvetronic range was not correct when checked in inpa, I can't remember the exact numbers but it was off, and the calibration in inpa would reset but then didn't do anything. The power on test, before starting the engine, when the vvt motor should go through a full range(click to click), it didn't do it at all. 

It was narrowed down to the valvetronic motor, after cleaning the vanos Solenoids, replacing the initially suspected eccentric shaft sensor and having all the wiring checked. The valvetronic motor has been replaced previously so that's why it wasn't suspected. 

Myself and @KwS(mostly KwS tbh) changed the valvetronic motor. I also changed the valvetronic electrical control module at the same time. Mostly because everything else in the electrical chain had been checked or replaced, and I wasn't 100% sure it was actually the vt motor itself causing problems.

After running the inpa calibration, and maybe dme calibration? the car ran mint and has done since then.

I did a write up of it in my 130i manual thread, you should have a read of. 

I would suggest you change the valvetronic electronic module, it's $20 from fcpeuro. If that doesn't work then do the vvt motor, maybe both at the same time but the motor is much more expensive at $150US, plus you need the gasket. Photo below is the module and valvetronic motor gasket for a pre lci! Lci have a different type of gasket for the valvetronic motor(real OEM is your friend). Not sure if the module is different between lci/pre-lci but worth checking realoem anyway. The module lives underneath the fusebox on the passenger side of the engine bay. It's easy to follow the wiring from the vt motor to it. Realoem will also show it. 

Also you noted that there is oil on the eccentric shaft sensor. From reading online trying to diagnose my problem that is a bad sign, and can cause faulty readings and sensor to fail. So it may be the sensor causing the issue. But if all the readings from it are good, clean it and pray its not the sensor otherwise that's about $250 US from fcpeuro. 

Hope this helps

Edited February 5, 2021 by NZ_InFerno

[KwS 2425]

Yeah that reads exactly like @NZ_InFernos fault. I'd be looking at replacing the valvetronic motor and sensor. The motor is the easy one to do, so i'd start with that, but oil in the sensor isnt a good sign.

[NZ_InFerno 371]

3 minutes ago, KwS said:

Yeah that reads exactly like @NZ_InFernos fault. I'd be looking at replacing the valvetronic motor and sensor. The motor is the easy one to do, so i'd start with that, but oil in the sensor isnt a good sign.

Just re-read it and sounds like he's got the rocker cover gasket off atm, so replace the lot while access is good. 

Hopefully they unwound the valvetronic motor correctly when removing the rocker cover. Reinstalling it is a little tricky. 

[Arron 227]

Had another dig at it this morning, 

 

checked the relay, that was all fine but had a new one here so swapped it to be sure. 
 

had a bit of a play around, manually wound the eccentric shaft to half way through its movement and then tried to run the self calibration, and surprisingly...... it moved..... but only in one direction only  and would not do the full sweep! 

 

decided that it was time to have a look at the sensor, so pulled it off, pulled the back out of it and what would you know, it’s full of oil like their usual failures are! 

have just ordered a new sensor, valvetronic motor, gaskets and seals to chuck put it all back together and hopefully the issue will be solved!
 

 

 

 

[NZ_InFerno 371]

Quite annoying how little oil seals cause major problems. Sounds like you've got the problem nailed down though, and the right person to be doing the job. 

[M3AN 4016]

I have a rear parcel shelf for sale if anybody is looking...

 

[NZ_InFerno 371]

Anyone thinking of ordering from schmiedmann? I've got a grill and gear knob I want to get but shipping is killer. 

Alternatively anyone seen some black kidney grills with the pointy corners anywhere? 

[Driftit 2078]

I had a similar issue with my Valvetronic motor. Replaced it and issue went away. I still have the motor if you want me to send it down to you to play with. Most of the time it was fine.

[gofaster 100]

Bit if a c... up ordering the M3 gearbox mounts for my 130i.

Thought I would be clever and get some polyurethane ones from FCP Euro (Revshift PTM-BT 80A)  but upon removing the old ones, notice they need a bit of "flexibility" when removing/installing in/out of the slots in the mount - see pic.

Of course the Urethane ones dont move, so am stuck having to re-order standard rubber M3 mounts.

If you have done this before and have a better idea, I am all ears.

Cheers, John