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tony2657

2005 BMW M3 Convertible w/hardtop

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Wouldn't read too much into the WOF info off carjam. The car is clearly no garage queen, with 8500kms up a year since import in 2012. So driven frequently, and all the better for it too. Go have a look, you will be buying on condition with this one.

In my mind these convertibles with hardtop are undervalued by comparison with the coupes. Foolishly , the kiwi enthusiast tend to dismiss these, whereas in Eurorope, the UK and the USA a ragtop with hard top in place is often the preferred choice of the cognoscenti.

Should you be nervous at all, (and we mainlanders have to be wary of these slick talking Aucklanders) get a PPI,  from  a BMW specialist, there are a few up there.

 

(No affiliation to vendor)

Edited by Willy Sea

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Cheers.  And thanks for the advice, although I am thinking it's pricey despite the good things going for it.,

 

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Can’t decide which I hate worse, the crystal aftermarket headlights or the M3 badge on the side skirts..

Easy enough to remove and replace but that’s a pretty high price :(

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"Note, 96,000 miles "

So, why not just convert that to KM so your listing doesn't state "96000km".... 🤦‍♂️

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It’s probably priced about right if it all checks out given what other E36/46 cars are going for amd I think in the other E46 engines the convertibles seem to command a premium.

Me personally, I would go for the sedan/coupe in a M3 given how much rain we get in Auckland. 

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17 hours ago, Matth5 said:

"Note, 96,000 miles "

So, why not just convert that to KM so your listing doesn't state "96000km".... 🤦‍♂️

Why doesnt trademe have an option to change from KM to Miles on a listing?

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No good asking us Kelvin, ask Trade Me. Oh wait, its almost impossible to speak to a person there, no one answers the phone and their much lauded "chat function" is about as useful as tits on a bull.😡

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42k? with sh*t budget tyres and grime everywhere (is that rust around the tail light?) 

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The practical reality is that the market for an e46 M3 is tiny, and of that tiny market about 99% won't even consider a convertible so you might be looking at one or two people a year who will come and kick the tyres, then walk away at this price. It's just not realistic. Hardtop might have cost $7k but it's worth nothing with the car now, it's a (necessary) giveaway.

No mention of rear subframe consideration and it's a UK import which are two huge (multi-thousand dollar) considerations. It will cost you $400+ to have it properly checked for rust. Being an '05, as long as the owner can prove it's been run on 10w60 its whole life then no deductions there. VANOS? Spurious headlights and badges... not so good. Driver's seat is falling apart.

The problem is, in this market, how can you tell? I don't actually think listing it as $42k is a stupid idea, I just don't think it will sell for that and if the seller isn't pragmatic, for the reasons above it will sit there for a long time. I think they'd be smart to quickly accept a $32-$35k cash offer if it came along.

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2 hours ago, M3AN said:

Being an '05, as long as the owner can prove it's been run on 10w60 its whole life then no deductions there.

This is not really true, there have been cases of 2005 M3s spinning bearings despite no signs of abuse and all of them at least show some wear at around this mileage regardless of MY. 

Regarding subframe, if this car has any reinforcement it will only be underside plates which has been shown to only worsen the issue as it doesn't correct the load paths and just pushes the cracking further outboard to the wheel arches. 

This M3 is easily 5 or 6k (realistically more) from being a preventatively maintained at which point its definitely not worth the asking.

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9 minutes ago, Harper said:

This is not really true, there have been cases of 2005 M3s spinning bearings despite no signs of abuse and all of them at least show some wear at around this mileage regardless of MY. 

Regarding subframe, if this car has any reinforcement it will only be underside plates which has been shown to only worsen the issue as it doesn't correct the load paths and just pushes the cracking further outboard to the wheel arches. 

Okay, "less deductions" perhaps. BMW did make changes on '05, in addition to recommending 10w60 ('03?) so the risk is (should be?) lower. Having said that, pretty much every M car of that era has the same problem so I'm not sure BMW actually worked out how to prevent it.

Subframes can be repaired correctly although it's more difficult in a 'vert because of where the roof folds in. Regardless, I'd still want to check it properly.

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