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18 minutes ago, Gaz said:

Magic eye doesn't always mean sh*t. Load test is most reliable way to confirm battery status

Completely agree. It's a guide - nothing more.

Load testing typically requires being able to start the vehicle. That's not happening, without charging the battery (again). Which I can do, of course.

5 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Hmm, that battery sounds good enough for at least one start... sure your starter is okay? I don't have any meaningful E30 knowledge but can you reach the starter with a dead blow hammer to give it a tap when you can hear the 'noid?

I'm not suggesting the battery is not the culprit but I'd want to eliminate the starter before buying a new battery.

Either way, when I did my research ~8 months ago these guys: https://www.mrpositive.co.nz/ had the best price by quite some margin for a Bosch S5.

When fully charged, it seems it'll do a couple of starts. The third one is a bit of a no-go... But when the car starts, it starts easily. I measured a 5V difference between running (charging) voltage, and that displayed when unsuccessfully trying to start the car.

Even when it won't start, there's enough charge to show good headlights and full beam.

This suggests to me that voltage is present, but power is not.

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Have you checked the earth connections 

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6 minutes ago, allan said:

Have you checked the earth connections 

Not yet. 

It's dark and there's no undercover, let alone inside, space I can use. :(

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Voltage dropping to 9V is a pretty sure sign its FUBAR. I wouldnt bother looking too far without replacing the battery first.

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2003 X5.

Colleague at work is looking for new tyres. She has runflat rims and tyres and present, and has been advised she *must* use runflat tyres.

Not because 'ordinary' tyres won't be suitable - they'll fit and work perfectly well - but because in the even of a puncture, the pressure sensors could be damaged if 'ordinary' - not runflat - tyres are fitted.

I thought the sensors were sufficiently out of the way for that not to be an issue? Of course, I don't own or drive an X5...

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The tyre pressure monitoring works by diagnosing from the wheel speed sensors. They don't have sensors inside the wheel

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On 6/10/2020 at 9:48 AM, B.M.W Ltd said:

The tyre pressure monitoring works by diagnosing from the wheel speed sensors. They don't have sensors inside the wheel

I've never had to deal with tpms system. But had researched it awhile ago as was interested to see how it worked. And had read about the system you describe and also the system which uses sensors in the tyre valve. 

 

A quick check on TIS for e53 shows it uses a pressure sensor in valve system.  

 

Maybe the tyre shop is correct. Would be interesting to know what system it is using.

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e53-x5-3.0d-sav/wiring-functional-info/chassis-suspension/wheels-tyres/tyre-pressure-control/XkPZ3jW

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Found something similar the other day, 128s (the US market N52B30 coupe) uses actual pressure sensors, makes ya wonder why BMW developed two systems for two different markets considering so much of the parts are similar. 

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Does TPMS apply to runflats? If so I'd expect you to need to use the valves because the wheelspeed sensor wouldn't see a meaningful change.

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Hi Team - looking to buy some ceramic grease for glow plug fitting. Any recommendations for good product and where to buy? Cheers! 

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9 hours ago, M3AN said:

Does TPMS apply to runflats? If so I'd expect you to need to use the valves because the wheelspeed sensor wouldn't see a meaningful change.

Must do, my E91 was specced with runflats from new and had the weird rolling radius based TPMS with no sensors. Didnt know that was a thing until i went digging to find out why mine randomly triggered a TPMS light driving back from Hamilton despite pressures being good.

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Because the runflat tyres have a stiffened sidewall, it's nigh impossible to tell if you have a puncture visually, hence the need for TPMS

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1 hour ago, Gaz said:

Because the runflat tyres have a stiffened sidewall, it's nigh impossible to tell if you have a puncture visually, hence the need for TPMS

That's @M3ANs point. With the stiff sidewall, wouldn't it make more sense to have an actual pressure sensor instead of the fake abs sensor one? 

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Pretty much all the E8/9 generation have runflats, but two different systems for telling Karen the tyres flat. 

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9 hours ago, KwS said:

Must do, my E91 was specced with runflats from new and had the weird rolling radius based TPMS with no sensors. Didnt know that was a thing until i went digging to find out why mine randomly triggered a TPMS light driving back from Hamilton despite pressures being good.

It can be triggered by a long gentle bend in the road, not enough angle on the steering wheel for the sensor to detect, but enough difference in wheel speed for the abs sensor to detect, and it thinks you have a flat, the Waterview tunnel triggered the TPMS in the M5. 

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10 hours ago, C-130 Hercules said:

Hi Team - looking to buy some ceramic grease for glow plug fitting. Any recommendations for good product and where to buy? Cheers! 

I've used this on many diesel motors in the past. Max operating temp is 1200'c https://eshop.wurth.co.nz/Copper-paste-CU-800-PAST-CU-800-TUBE-100G/08938001.sku/WuerthGroup-Wuerth.cgid/en/GB/NZD/?VisibleSearchTerm=Copper+grease

Be very careful and use the correct tools

 

Edited by B.M.W Ltd
adding info
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I might also add: Do a lot more research and only use the correct tools before you attempt to do the job. This varies quite a bit with different models and engine types.

Edited by B.M.W Ltd

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8 hours ago, KwS said:

That's @M3ANs point. With the stiff sidewall, wouldn't it make more sense to have an actual pressure sensor instead of the fake abs sensor one? 

Doesn't really matter as long as it does the job. Both super reliable, only issues with them are users ones. 

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4 hours ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

I might also add: Do a lot more research and only use the correct tools before you attempt to do the job. This varies quite a bit with different models and engine types.

Thanks for the heads up - was expecting it actually ?

They can be tricky to take out. Have been squirting a bit of oil onto the base for a couple of days now to work itself in. Have come up with the following procedure:

1. Don't rush

2. Penetrate bases with oil for some days

3. Warm engine before removal 

4. Compressed air clean seats

5. Dap oil on base and let soak for another 30 mins

6. Check tight - 1/64th tighten

7. Then attempt to loosen (with torque 11-12nm?)

8. If resistance is encountered, work your way up again and down again

 

Got hold of following products. Not sure which is better. Any suggestions? 

 

15920041443076523338419003475636.jpg

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Your on to it. What vehicle/engine are you doing this on ?

 

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16 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

Your on to it. What vehicle/engine are you doing this on ?

 

Gl320cdi / Om642.940

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4 minutes ago, C-130 Hercules said:

Gl320cdi / Om642.940

Good luck....I'd get the engine hot before starting the job so it's warm by the time you get there.

 

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8 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

Good luck....I'd get the engine hot before starting the job so it's warm by the time you get there.

 

Thanks, yes that's the plan. ? 

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I'm keen to swap an m42 into my m40 e30, but am very keen to hold on to my aircon. 

Will it be possible to bolt the original compressor onto the m42, or is there zero chance the belt tracking will line up? Or is the pulley different or something maybe? Failing that, would a compressor from the donor car work with the rest of the e30's aircon setup? 

I appreciate any knowledge/thoughts/speculation. 

Cheers. 

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