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IIRC the donor was a eary - mid 1993 325 coupe. Did have the VIN at one stage but the file seems to have been lost in the course of moving house.

I think i have the VIN number somewhere, i have the ECU from that car in my E30

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They can slide in length at the middle of the driveshaft , loosen the big nut ,

Bloody legend! :)

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I think i have the VIN number somewhere, i have the ECU from that car in my E30

Actually that would be useful :) I know you sent it to me but I'm damned if I know what became of it

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Actually that would be useful :) I know you sent it to me but I'm damned if I know what became of it

Haha found it WBABF32020JB02528 hope this helps

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Haha found it WBABF32020JB02528 hope this helps

Kickass!

Don't suppose you'd be keen to sell the ECU? :ph34r:

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Kickass!

Don't suppose you'd be keen to sell the ECU? :ph34r:

haha sorry its there to stay, i finally got around to getting the engine fired up the ECU was the hard part to find

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haha sorry its there to stay, i finally got around to getting the engine fired up the ECU was the hard part to find

Thought you'd say that :) Right, now to find someone that can teach me how to code! :ph34r:

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Thought you'd say that :) Right, now to find someone that can teach me how to code! :ph34r:

which ecu type do you need , i have some manual coded ones in stock

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which ecu type do you need , i have some manual coded ones in stock

Should've known you'd have something stashed away :)

'94 E36 325i. Not too worried about the rpm at idle, just want to avoid the rev flare on gearchanges. I can see that will annoy the hell outta me.

Thanks Brent

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one of my water pump bolts broke due to corrosion, i drilled it out but its made a bit of a mess and i need a way to fill it before redrilling and retapping.

would a welder be the right thing to use to fill up the hole? thoughts?

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tried that, it's about as hard as baked clay lol, didn't really work at all. if a weld is the answer is there a Cantab with a welder willing to help out?

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A heli coil would be better. A pic of the mess might help with suggestions. Welding is probably not an option

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you can buy thread repair kits that use an metal epoxy, very different stuff to normal epoxy glues you buy for odd jobs.

as glenn said a heli coil would be your best option.

possibly best to take it to someone who has done it before, amateur work can just make it worse

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you can buy thread repair kits that use an metal epoxy, very different stuff to normal epoxy glues you buy for odd jobs.

as glenn said a heli coil would be your best option.

possibly best to take it to someone who has done it before, amateur work can just make it worse

I've done a bit of research and I'll try a 2 part epoxy which is about 3x the strength of the steel putty. If that fails I'll have a rethink. Helicoil won't work unless I use one in conjunction with the epoxy. The hole is large and not circular.

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I've done a bit of research and I'll try a 2 part epoxy which is about 3x the strength of the steel putty. If that fails I'll have a rethink. Helicoil won't work unless I use one in conjunction with the epoxy. The hole is large and not circular.

You might be looking at a new block then. I doubt the epoxy will have the strength and deal with the temperatures. Show us a picture... by PM if you like

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You want a timesert or an oversized insert. Spring style inserts (like helicoil brand are) can cause a lot of issues later.

If you have the space, you can drill it bigger, screw in some threaded rod, then drill and tap to suit., VERY carefully.

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Which engine was this? If just one of four bolts holding pump, sometimes best bet is run with 3 bolts

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e30 manual conversion pedal stops

wondering about the kickdown switch on the accelerator pedal, if i remove this is there a stop that goes in its place?

Also the clutch stop i have is a simple plactic disc with no adjustment. Is there a common adjustable option?

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They're interchangable. Had a red pfl on my silver facelift

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You want a timesert or an oversized insert. Spring style inserts (like helicoil brand are) can cause a lot of issues later.

If you have the space, you can drill it bigger, screw in some threaded rod, then drill and tap to suit., VERY carefully.

That's not a bad idea, I was thinking I could even use a smaller bolt rather than m6 since i have limited width to work. e.g m6 insert m4 bolt but yes i would have to be very careful. this is probably a last resort.

Which engine was this? If just one of four bolts holding pump, sometimes best bet is run with 3 bolts

its an m30 so 6 bolts in total, one of which is buggered.

all bolts have to be torqued to 9 NM +/- 1NM so its still possible to fix (fingers crossed).

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Yo,

Can you swap you front and rear wheels without have to rebalance or align?

My balance/alignment is good, but I have a bit of inner rear camber wear. So if i put the front wheels and tyures on the back would that be sweet?

Cheers

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Yo,

Can you swap you front and rear wheels without have to rebalance or align?

My balance/alignment is good, but I have a bit of inner rear camber wear. So if i put the front wheels and tyures on the back would that be sweet?

Cheers

You dont need to rebalance of align if you do that.

That said, would I do it? No.

your front tyres are the ones you use to stop and turn, id rather have the maximum amount of tread i can thanks. plus you will just end up with 4 tyres with bald inner shoulders, then what do you do

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