_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted February 17, 2014 out of interest, is it possible to retrofit the single pump facelift type in? ive never owned a prefacelift Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted February 17, 2014 ring fuel quip for the pumps , external bosch type about $200 (this is the main one) internal after market type about $100 (needs small mod to make it work) wont stop the car from running if it fails but may cause issues if fuel is low i have also used e36 e46 types in the past (with small mod) for the later types which have one pump in the tank which is nice as the used ones are not as old as a used e30 one Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted February 17, 2014 out of interest, is it possible to retrofit the single pump facelift type in? ive never owned a prefacelift Yea it's completely possible. Considered this when buying a new transfer pump. I think brents talking about the chevrolet vega fuel pump as a transfer pump. He's correct too. Thats actually what I bought. Cost me $70 shipped compared to the Oem one ($170). Specs are almost identical. Requires a little basic (real basic) modification Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twisted 45 Report post Posted February 21, 2014 (edited) E39 Monitor/Radio: My boardmonitor is Fubared i think - was working intermittently, but now not at all. So i took it out to compress the ribbon cable connectors etc - no joy. While i did this, i unplugged the tape deck unit while the radio was going, and the radio kept going ok with no boardmonitor for a little while. Then it just simply cut out? Now with it all back together, when i try and turn the radio/cd/tape unit on, the orange LED just flashes once, and nothing goes. Any ideas? EDIT: Pulling fuse 56 for an hour or so seems to have done the trick. Edited February 21, 2014 by -Alias- Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twisted 45 Report post Posted February 26, 2014 Is a Phillips screwdriver a suitable substitute for a crank lock pin on an m52? Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) Is a Phillips screwdriver a suitable substitute for a crank lock pin on an m52? Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk No it's not, the bore size in the bell housing is larger than the pin locating hole in the flywheel/flexi plate. And it must be accurate if your are doing anything with cam timing/vanos. Edited February 26, 2014 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twisted 45 Report post Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) Sweet thanks Glenn. Will get the appropriate tool before I get into it.Edit: Just checked and i have the correct tool already. Looking forward to getting this job done next week (Vanos seals) Edited February 26, 2014 by -Alias- Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
duvey 245 Report post Posted February 27, 2014 Got a fairly substantial coolant leak from the heater control valve (64111386707) - and am just wondering what my best approach is, either trying to re-seal/recondition the one i have, get a second hand replacement, or just fork out for a new one? Anyone have any experience around where these tend to actually leak from? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubman 39 Report post Posted February 27, 2014 bypass the heater and wear a coat new one for peace of mind, as 2nd units always carry a risk. Where is the leak actually coming from? Could try a reseal with "diy gaskets" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
duvey 245 Report post Posted February 27, 2014 bypass the heater and wear a coat new one for peace of mind, as 2nd units always carry a risk. Where is the leak actually coming from? Could try a reseal with "diy gaskets" Its very difficult to tell. It doesn't leak barely at all on short drives, but on the drive from Welly to Ak, it leaked enough to saturate all the carpet in the passenger's footwell. Based on the coolant mineral staining, it looks like from around the bottom of the valve body where it connects to the pipe. I might try the DIY approach. No harm done if it doesn't work. Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Etwenty1 45 Report post Posted February 27, 2014 E30? - Mine was the O-rings where the hard lines join - they go square with age. I just got new ones from the dealer or repco. Also the hard lines that pass through the fire wall seem to get pitted which can lead to a leak. Take the unit out and check. I think I have a spare valve if you need one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
duvey 245 Report post Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) E30? - Mine was the O-rings where the hard lines join - they go square with age. I just got new ones from the dealer or repco. Also the hard lines that pass through the fire wall seem to get pitted which can lead to a leak. Take the unit out and check. I think I have a spare valve if you need one. Thanks for the info. Will take a closer look and let you know. On another unrelated note, I'm in the process of replacing the windscreen cowling on my e36. There are four little white clips that hold it to the body of the car, in addition to the black screw clips on the top. At some point the windscreen was replaced by Smith&Smith (barbarians) and they have put the cowling back on with ONE of the four clips. Hoping to get this done today, and all the parts places are closed now - so just wondering if anyone in AK has any of these spare (or an E36 I can scavenge them off): Thanks Edited March 1, 2014 by duvey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vtgts300kw 90 Report post Posted March 5, 2014 Are these still available? The sticker has lost the ability to stick. Is the sticker sold by itself? I want to avoid using double sided tape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1906 Report post Posted March 5, 2014 Are these still available? The sticker has lost the ability to stick. Is the sticker sold by itself? I want to avoid using double sided tape. Have you tried 3m vhb. Its clear double sided tape, and once its on, it stays on. (Assuming the sticker stays stuck to the light unit) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vtgts300kw 90 Report post Posted March 5, 2014 Have you tried 3m vhb. Its clear double sided tape, and once its on, it stays on. (Assuming the sticker stays stuck to the light unit) That'll be last resort as the sticker has seen its best days. Where can I get the vhb? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1906 Report post Posted March 5, 2014 That'll be last resort as the sticker has seen its best days. Where can I get the vhb? Bunnings has it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted March 5, 2014 Anyone know the size of the bmw badge on the trunk of a pfl (1987) e30 sedan? The one on the bonnet is 82mm but the badge on the trunk seems a little bigger under the tape measure... around 86-87mm. Sound right? Where can I get this bigger size? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted March 5, 2014 Anyone know the size of the bmw badge on the trunk of a pfl (1987) e30 sedan? The one on the bonnet is 82mm but the badge on the trunk seems a little bigger under the tape measure... around 86-87mm. Sound right? Where can I get this bigger size? Thanks and they have a curve to them , pretty rare , i have one good 2nd hand one in stock Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twisted 45 Report post Posted March 23, 2014 E39 528 with the jap spec gm trans. Weird issue that seems to present itself mostly in D. Cruising at 100ish k, Rpm sitting around 2k, squeeze the throttle and car starts to accelerate. Then the revs drop about by about 300 rpm, and there's no power? You then have to trigger the lockdown to get anything out of it. Car has new vanos seals and coming system and goes very well otherwise. Well get it scanned at some point, but does any one have any ideas? . Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twisted 45 Report post Posted March 23, 2014 Kick down, not lock down. Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) Sounds like a torque convertor lock up issue. Cruising at 100kph and pressing the throttle should make the lock up clutch disengage and bring the revs up by around 200rpm Edited March 23, 2014 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MISS BM 712 Report post Posted March 23, 2014 E39 528 with the jap spec gm trans. Weird issue that seems to present itself mostly in D. Cruising at 100ish k, Rpm sitting around 2k, squeeze the throttle and car starts to accelerate. Then the revs drop about by about 300 rpm, and there's no power? You then have to trigger the lockdown to get anything out of it. Car has new vanos seals and coming system and goes very well otherwise. Well get it scanned at some point, but does any one have any ideas? . Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk My E39 was doing similar but I was accompanied by some pretty gnarly sounds too. I would say torque converter off the top of my head - got mine reconditioned and it sorted all issues and runs like a dream with no hiccups - I can't exactly remember, but scanning didn't give an idea to the issue - it was only the symptoms I was presented with that hinted towards the TCSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 42 Report post Posted March 25, 2014 (edited) This is my E34 Hub, is it an asymmetric or symmetric hub? (need to replace the bearing) Edited March 25, 2014 by _Matt_ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RipJaws 3 Report post Posted March 28, 2014 Does anyone know where I could get a new o2 sensor for an M20B20 at a fair price? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 607 Report post Posted March 28, 2014 Does anyone know where I could get a new o2 sensor for an M20B20 at a fair price? Try Paul at www.milland.co.nz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
